LT1046 won’t start

[LKB]

I like the idea of just running a temp fuel line from the pump to a gas can on the ground — simple and allows me to start eliminating variables one by one. Will try that when I have time to work on it again.

I also used a cheap bulb type siphon to remove the small amount (about 2 liters) of gas in the tank — gas was in good condition, but at the end it also sucked out some bits of what look like parts of a bug and misc crud, some of which clogged the check valve on the inlet side of the siphon pump. I suspect once I solve the fuel pump issue I’m going to have to replace the fuel lines (and probably tear down the tractor to remove and clean out the gas tank ).

 

[Forest#2]

You say you had to replace the gas cap
I've seen pieces of old gas cap o rings bits get into fuel lines.

Keep in mind that testing from a milk jug or gas can on the floor is starting with the fuel line dry and will take longer to get fuel to the pump vs from the LT 1046 tank has gravity fed fuel in the fuel line already. Will take somewhat longer to get fuel to the pump. If you do not have a bottom feed tank to test from You might have to gravity flow at first to get a fuel pump flow then move the test container lower. You have already determined that you need to clean the tank. You have to be careful with the PLASTIC nipple on the bottom of the existing tank. They will break off easily trying to remove the old hard fuel line from the old plastic nipple and replacement tanks are costly. I drain the tank of fuel first and cut the old fuel line and carefully remove the old fuel line from the nipple AFTER the tank is removed.

Move the tractor outside when testing.
AND
Be careful and keep YOURSELF safe.

 

[LKB]

Well, nuts!
Put a fuel supply line to the pump into a small container of gas sitting on the front wheel (such that it only would have to pump the gas up about 8” to get to the pump). Cranked the motor but the fuel out side of the pump remained dry as a bone. Will try a new/different impulse pump next.

Anyone have a Q&D way of testing whether an impulse pump is good or not? And if the impulse pump is good but won’t work the the vac line is connected, what are the likely suspects there? (Already checked the vac hose — it’s not cracked or anything.)

 

[Forest#2]

You asked this:
Anyone have a Q&D way of testing whether an impulse pump is good or not?

Try searching on-line for
How to test a small engine impulse type fuel pump?
Is it a Briggs OHV twin or maybe a Kohler engine????????????
I previously asked the Model, code and type of the engine that is in your LT1046? If it's a Briggs twin this info is on the top of the valve cover.
The reason I asked is I have had experience with some engines that have those same symptoms.
The LT1046 tractors did not all use the same make of engines is another reason I asked.

 

[LKB]

It’s an older LT1046, with a Koehler Command 23 engine.

 

[LKB]

SUCCESS!

Got an impulse pump from Amazon that is supposed to be a compatible replacement part for a Kohler Command 23 engine. Hooked it up to a temp gas container and vacuum line, and it drew / pumped gas just fine. Mounted it and hooked it up to the existing fuel in/out lines, and viola, it started right up!

So all that was wrong was the old fuel pump bit the dust (although the crud in the gas tank probably didn't help). Had I known what I was doing, I could have fixed it in five minutes.

Lesson learned: just because you replace a part with a "new" one, don't blindly assume the new part works (especially if it's Chinesium). Had I just tested the first "new" fuel pump and discovered it didn't work, I would have saved myself a bunch of time and aggravation.

So, while best practices means I probably do need to break down the tractor, remove / clean the gas tank and replace the very old fuel line, I can probably get through the rest of the season and wait to do so until this winter.

Now I just need for things to dry out a bit . . . after the driest summer in generations, we've had three days of rain. Between the tractor being out of condition for a few weeks and the recent rain, the grass / weeds I need to cut will be 18" high (fortunately, less than 0.4 ac.)!

Or as my dad used to say when things got that bad, "you're gonna be baling hay!"

 

[Forest#2]

You might want to consider placing the gas filter BEFORE the pulse pump to trap the gas tank trash before it enter the pump, if it's not already located as such.
Tall grass if you do not get er bailed also makes the snow look deeper.
At least cut a trail to the door step, redneck style.

 

[LKB]

What's this "snow" you speak of? (Writing from Central Texas, where we've had more than 2" of snow maybe half a dozen times in the past 15 years!)

Fuel filter is just upstream of the pump, so all's good there.

Cutting grass of that height . . . I usually run over it with the deck all the way up, wait a couple of days (so that the grass clippings dry up), and then hit it again at the normal height. (The area is mostly native prairie grasses, although Bermuda grass is starting to colonize.)

 

[Mmann1557]

I had the same issue with a Kohler CV25S. Started right up and ran for a couple seconds. It turned out to be the fuel shutoff solenoid. The wire going to it broke somewhere(couldn’t find where) I ended up running it disconnected and seems to be fine.

 

[moparjoe]

It would not hurt to check the fuel line coming from the fuel tank. In recent years I have seen several fuel line with inner liners coming apart and be blocking the fuel flow when a vacuum is applied to the line.

Also make sure no trash is blocking the fuel outlet of the tank.

STARTECH. I had the same problem a couple times with the fuel line from the tank collapsing and stopping the fuel flow. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than putting a electric fuel pump on just to find out it's the fuel line.