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I installed a new fuel pump and this helped the problem, the fuel filter always remains at least half full even uphill with a near empty tank but intermittently it still runs rough and has a significant loss of power. I pulled the air cleaner and the air cleaner housing plate looking for some carb adjustments but didn't see much, the air filter looks clean and all hoses are attached. The plug on the left cylinder as your sitting on the mower is very lean, almost pure white. I googled a valve adjustment procedure but haven't found one yet, I'll try to D/L a manual tonite but would appreciate any tips on what to look at to resolve this.

kawasaki FH500V correct?
valve clearance is 006" and .006" on both.

Ignore the fuel filter thing.

Yep it's a 500 THANKS! The locking of the valve setpoint is a little different than the Honda Motorcycles I've done, probably because the tappet adjuster on the Honda is right on top of the valve stem. I'll get them set tomorrow!

Gees I love these videos presented by clowns with no ideal about what they are talking about

Set the compression ? Adjust the valve lash perhaps ?
Next 110 psi to 120 psi ? really
Kawasaki say 64 psi to 90 psi
And that is only on the right cylinder as the left has the decompressor on it .
He is probably a quite good motorcycle mechanic but seem to know diddley squat about mower engines

Interesting video. Since he is using an automotive compression tester and the rubber hose adds to the volume of the combustion chamber unless there is a Schrader valve in the end of the hose in the engine the test will be lower than the actual compression. On a chainsaw it can be as much as 30lb difference. If i use an automotive tester on this 99cc engine i get 150psi.How do you "set the compression"? I think some folks like to over complicate setting valve lash. "It's not the space shuttle."

Hammermechanicman said:

Interesting video. Since he is using an automotive compression tester and the rubber hose adds to the volume of the combustion chamber unless there is a Schrader valve in the end of the hose in the engine the test will be lower than the actual compression. On a chainsaw it can be as much as 30lb difference. If i use an automotive tester on this 99cc engine i get 150psi.View attachment 52469How do you "set the compression"? I think some folks like to over complicate setting valve lash. "It's not the space shuttle."

Click to expand...

I must need new glasses, I could swear that gauge reads 175....that is one healthy chainsaw!

You read it right. That was new. Since it has broken in it is 182psi. Ported big bore cylinder, base gasket delete to raise compression, advanced ignition timing, gutted dual port muffler, Max Flow air cleaner, rejetted carb. It gets the job done. Even with modified compression release you gotta pull the rope like ya mean it.

And you're still losing some on the reading with the hose and fittings. That's a Boss Hoss chainsaw there.

I wonder if the JD motor has a vacuum leak between the carb and the cylinder that's running lean?

I def didn't use a compression gauge! LOL. I am surprised there isn't a TDC indicator anywhere maybe there is...

You don't need one to set valves. I am one those blasphemers who sets valves by cranking engine till one valve is open then set the other one. As long as the lifter is on the heel of the cam it works. Some folks get their panties in a bunch and feel society will collapse if valves are not set at TDC.