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I changed the oil in Kawasaki FR730V and didn't twist on the oil cap tight enough. I noticed oil dripping from the frame and the dip stick cap was off but still in. I ran it low by approximately 75%. My question is should I change over to synthetic oil now that it's been run low? I've changed the oil before per the manual and kept the filter clean. It has smoke sometimes when I run it then turn it off and start it again but it clears out after 30 seconds.
Thanks

Nope. Run plain old conventional. Synthetic would probably exacerbate any wear problems, as on wore engine it tends to Slip more than provided a thin film, it's been rumored.

There is no magic bullet you can pour into an engine
Synthetic oils appear to "fix" things because most are ashless so they do not smoke as much
Heavy oils can compensate for some minor wear

Using oil with zinc additive is recommended. Kawasaki sell a 15w50 synthetic with zinc as well as Mobile One. Alternative is to use Rotella 20w50 with zinc (diesel engine rated oil). Kawasaki engine tends oils heavier than 10w30. The zinc coats parts and reduces wear.

Also note when checking on these oil the dipstick is installed just sitting on top of the threads to get correct oil check. Of course when done checking the oil level the cap screw down tight for normal operations.

Personally I use a semi synthetic with moly in my truck that has nearly 340 miles. It actually increase my hot oil pressure from 25 psi to over 50psi. OF course it needs a oil change again and oil pressure has dropped to 48 psi but that with 10K on the oil. So I know the moly must have filled in the wear spots.

The oil level would have dropped gradually as the oil was blown out of the dip stick tube, so the amount of running at the lowest level was probably a fraction of the total run time. If there was still enough oil to maintain system pressure, there might be little or no damage. The oil temperature could have risen to a level that could damage the oil. The oil would likely turn darker if it overheated. If the engine has developed unusual noises, or runs differently than before, there could be some engine wear/damage, but if after changing the oil and filter, it seems to run normally, there might not be any. Smoke could be caused by fuel or oil, so monitor oil consumption, as excess consumption would be an indication of engine wear.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Nope. Run plain old conventional. Synthetic would probably exacerbate any wear problems, as on wore engine it tends to Slip more than provided a thin film, it's been rumored.

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Surely you jest !

I run Synthetic oil in every engine I own . I started running it in a 10 HP B&S that I was powering a Vacuum Pump with , in my Maple Sugarbush . I put a 10 Gallon fuel tank on it , so it would run all night . This didn't work because the oil (conventional) would burn off enough so that the low oil shutdown switch would shut it off during the night . A small engine mechanic suggested I put synthetic oil in it . Well I did just that , and that 10 HP Briggs would run all night long . That experience sold me on synthetic oils , which I now run in every internal combustion engine that I own . Instead of 3000 Mi. oil changes , I now go 5,000 Mi. between oil changes which offsets the additional cost of the oil (comes out looking like new) . In air cooled engines , stay with the manufacturers suggested oil change intervals . Or cut them in half like I do . My Kawasaki engines in my John Deere equipment , get changed every 50 hours (they suggest 100) .

lbrac said:

The oil level would have dropped gradually as the oil was blown out of the dip stick tube, so the amount of running at the lowest level was probably a fraction of the total run time. If there was still enough oil to maintain system pressure, there might be little or no damage. The oil temperature could have risen to a level that could damage the oil. The oil would likely turn darker if it overheated. If the engine has developed unusual noises, or runs differently than before, there could be some engine wear/damage, but if after changing the oil and filter, it seems to run normally, there might not be any. Smoke could be caused by fuel or oil, so monitor oil consumption, as excess consumption would be an indication of engine wear.

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Thanks. Do you think I should run straight 30 sae

drg123 said:

Thanks. Do you think I should run straight 30 sae

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Kawasaki updated their oil recommendations a couple of years back. 10W40 is the minimum requirement. 20W50 is the maximum requirement. Anything in between will work too.
Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 or Shell Rotella T5 15W40 would be a good place to start.
If it continues to burn oil, move up to a 20W50.
Burning oil on 20W50, I think you know what comes next.

Harley oil

MParr said:

Kawasaki updated their oil recommendations a couple of years back. 10W40 is the minimum requirement. 20W50 is the maximum requirement. Anything in between will work too.
Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 or Shell Rotella T5 15W40 would be a good place to start.
If it continues to burn oil, move up to a 20W50.
Burning oil on 20W50, I think you know what comes next.

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That is why I prefer to just use a 15w50 synthetic as it more of a middle of the road blend plus around here Summer heat is now around 98+F but MParr said above those are good blends to start with.

And said once start burning oil at the 20w50 level it time for a rebuild or replacement.