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Got a LTX1040 with a drive pedal and break pedal (apparently there is a version that has a forward pedal and a reverse pedal?). The problem I'm having is as soon as I press the drive pedal (doesn't matter if FWD or REV on the gear shift) the tractor with go in that direction at full power but then speed drops completely. If I then release the drive pedal and press the pedal again, the tractor will move at full speed for a second and then nothing again. I can do this indefinitely, but my neck and back would hate me at the end of mowing my lawn. I can hear the engine go under load when I initially press the drive pedal, but after the first second it sounds like it's idle again. Engaging the blade works just fine and makes no difference to the drive train problem I'm experiencing.

Post transaxle make & all numbers from sticker.
Scroll down page & click on LTX Models for Service Repair Manual, see sections 5 & 6.

Sounds like a bad drive belt. When was the last time you changed it?

Highly unlikely that a belt would cause this. Weak belts would slip and not drive but engine would continue to provide power.

Problem is either a bad transaxle or a frozen pulley. When drive is engaged, belt grips but something downstream is frozen and causing belt to stop (engine can't turn if belt can't turn).

With engine off, try hand turning idler pulley and test for rotation. Best test is to remove drive belt and run engine.

Really sounds to me like the transaxle is locked up.

I kinda wish posters would at least take time to look up what they posting about before sticking their dirty foot in their mouth. Also you must carefully read what is posted and understand what is being said. In this the motion drive is losing speed and not the engine if I am reading things correctly.

The Cub Cadet LTX1040 uses CVT transaxle system just like many other MTD mowers. As Rivets posted it is likely one of the two drive belts. I would lean toward the CVT to transaxle belt just because it wears out the quickest.

My youngest son & I just performed above procedure in my older sons 2010 Simplicity Conquest 4x4 with 23h.p. Vanguard. Rear transaxle K664C would not move in reverse. After removing deck, inspecting drive belt, idler pulleys, fluid level, etc. called John at Tuff Torque. Watched Taryl's youtube video on replacing center case, cylinder block assemblies, seals, new fluid. John suggested I order repair kit, seal kit, seal installation tool kit, fluid, stand for working on transaxle. Started Sat. a.m., R&R Repair Kit, let unit set up overnight so cases sealant could bond, completed reinstallation & adding fluid after church Sunday p.m. Checked fluid level in front transaxle as well, was full. Test drove unit checking operation & for leaks, everything checked out well. I'm exceptionally proud of my sons, they do the work, I assist when needed & supervise. My older son saved $'s by having his brother & dad working on unit.
John at Tuff Torque is a professional intelligible knowledgeable man, you can reach him at: 1-866-572-3441 ext. 4190

I was responding to the engine bolging down under load when the OP wrote "I can hear the engine go under load when I initially press the drive pedal, but after the first second it sounds like it's idle again.".

If he meant that the engine remained strong, I misinterpreted his meaning and apologize to all. But if the engine pulls down to idle under load, I stand by the drive system sized at some point.

"Dirty foot"? What's wrong with you?

StarTech,
Young man watch your language when posting, if you do not have anything positive to say then do not post it. Quit badgering folks & act mature. This Forum is in the business of helping, aiding, & assisting folks. Thanks, Mark

mechanic mark said:

StarTech,
Young man watch your language when posting, if you do not have anything positive to say then do not post it. Quit badgering folks & act mature. This Forum is in the business of helping, aiding, & assisting folks. Thanks, Mark

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Okay I quit.

mechanic mark said:

StarTech,
Young man watch your language when posting, if you do not have anything positive to say then do not post it. Quit badgering folks & act mature. This Forum is in the business of helping, aiding, & assisting folks. Thanks, Mark

Click to expand...

Hey quit badgering @StarTech. LMAO.. I'm kidding.

Belt routing and condition of the belt.
Condition of the pully bearings.
Nothing caught up in the belts or pulleys.
If those all check out, then it almost has to be the transmission.

mechanic mark said:

Post transaxle make & all numbers from sticker.

Cub Cadet Service Manuals

Manuals and Diagrams for Cub Cadet Mowers and Tractors. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet. Buy Parts for Less.

www.ccpartsnmore.com

Scroll down page & click on LTX Models for Service Repair Manual, see sections 5 & 6.

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618-04683
s/n 7E091Q4
2459

Sorry this took so long, today was the first day I could get back to the mower in question. I took the mower for another test drive today. Noticed mower would move slowly in reverse most of the time (inclines were still a problem).

Just to clarify, when engaging the drive, does it pull the engine down (acting like the drive system or transmission is stuck) or, the engine stays strong and the drive system refuses to transfer the power (ex. belt slipping or idler spring weak) ?

enigma-2 said:

Just to clarify, when engaging the drive, does it pull the engine down (acting like the drive system or transmission is stuck) or, the engine stays strong and the drive system refuses to transfer the power (ex. belt slipping or idler spring weak) ?

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There is initial drive system power (full power in FWD or REV), but then there seems to be no drive traction at all. REV is able to maintain a very slow speed, but any type of incline cause the mower to come to a slow stop. If I let my foot off the "gas" pedal and then apply full pressure to the pedal again, the mower lurches FWD/REV and then instantly looses drive momentum. I'm sorry if I'm describing this wrong. I'm not really familiar with the mechanical jargon.

The engine sounds like it is "staying strong" and has no issue engaging the blades. The belts on the mower are the originals, but are not in horrible shape (mower has always been stored inside a garage when not being used). Am I wrong to assume that a slipping belt would make a squeaking noise? Also, I am assuming that a slipping belt would not provide full power initially?

Both your assumptions are wrong. Slipping belts don’t always make noise and worn belts will grab until they warm up. Only a trained tech can diagnose belt condition by looking at it. If your belt has not been changed in the last three years I would start by installing a new OEM belt.

MasterBaiter77 said:

There is initial drive system power (full power in FWD or REV), but then there seems to be no drive traction at all. REV is able to maintain a very slow speed, but any type of incline cause the mower to come to a slow stop. If I let my foot off the "gas" pedal and then apply full pressure to the pedal again, the mower lurches FWD/REV and then instantly looses drive momentum. I'm sorry if I'm describing this wrong. I'm not really familiar with the mechanical jargon.

The engine sounds like it is "staying strong" and has no issue engaging the blades. The belts on the mower are the originals, but are not in horrible shape (mower has always been stored inside a garage when not being used). Am I wrong to assume that a slipping belt would make a squeaking noise? Also, I am assuming that a slipping belt would not provide full power initially?

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I understand what you're saying. It lunges when you first press the pedal, and almost immediately it's like the belt isn't gripping. Pardon the pun, sort of like a "catch & release."