Export thread
looking for ignition coil for lawn mower
#2
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
Post model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx, code xxxxxxxx from engine for correct coil, thanks Mark
shop.briggsandstratton.com
If description does not state B&S OEM Part, it is cheap replica.
www.partstree.com
Electrical Parts
shop.briggsandstratton.com
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.
www.partstree.com
#4
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
#7
StarTech
StarTech
#13
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
#16
StarTech
StarTech
Your engine is location in the circled area but you need to clean it good to see it.
#18
M
mechanic mark
shop.briggsandstratton.com
A word to the wise, if part description identifies other than B&S OEM Part it is a cheap replica.
M
mechanic mark
Briggs and Stratton 590454 Magneto Armature
Genuine replacement;Ignition Coil;used on select 12 cu. in. L-Head vertical engines; This OEM part ensures proper fit and performance to maintain the life of your Briggs and Stratton engine. Genuine Briggs Stratton Ignition Coil Fits select Briggs Stratton Models New OEM replacement part...
shop.briggsandstratton.com
#19
T
tracminhvu
T
tracminhvu
thank you all very much for all the help, changed the new coil today, and get it run by 1st pull. 
#26
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
As others have stated you need the numbers off your engine but normally Briggs does stamp a number on their coil and it will be six digits long.
Your engine would have had the numbers on the metal flap above the muffler which is part of the metal shroud. That's where most of them have been for over 20 years. The earlier ones and a couple of other models had it stamped onto the end of the shroud right above the spark plug where the coil wire comes out from the little hole it comes through.
Then on the new ones they put it in a couple of places but usually on a sticker and it's become more annoying.
Yours is one of the very common two kinds of Briggs coils it's been around forever and you could pretty much go through a scrap pile of old engines and find a bunch of them.
There are a couple of different hole spacings on them with the older ones so they don't all interchange but there's only a couple of common ones.
Some of the aftermarket ones do look different than the original but still fit and function just fine.
I can't recommend buying coils locally at all as they're one of at least four parts I will never buy locally because they're overpriced and I can't recommend paying more money for a Briggs & Stratton brand coil because it'll cost you 40 to $60 when there's so many aftermarket ones available and I find they last just as long as the newer built Briggs & Stratton ones and the ones all over eBay and Amazon were typically under $12 but now it seems they're still under 20 but I saw several listings for 13-14.
My guess is this one or something like it would work just fine but without your actual engine numbers I can't look it up to the exact.
Your engine would have had the numbers on the metal flap above the muffler which is part of the metal shroud. That's where most of them have been for over 20 years. The earlier ones and a couple of other models had it stamped onto the end of the shroud right above the spark plug where the coil wire comes out from the little hole it comes through.
Then on the new ones they put it in a couple of places but usually on a sticker and it's become more annoying.
Yours is one of the very common two kinds of Briggs coils it's been around forever and you could pretty much go through a scrap pile of old engines and find a bunch of them.
There are a couple of different hole spacings on them with the older ones so they don't all interchange but there's only a couple of common ones.
Some of the aftermarket ones do look different than the original but still fit and function just fine.
I can't recommend buying coils locally at all as they're one of at least four parts I will never buy locally because they're overpriced and I can't recommend paying more money for a Briggs & Stratton brand coil because it'll cost you 40 to $60 when there's so many aftermarket ones available and I find they last just as long as the newer built Briggs & Stratton ones and the ones all over eBay and Amazon were typically under $12 but now it seems they're still under 20 but I saw several listings for 13-14.
My guess is this one or something like it would work just fine but without your actual engine numbers I can't look it up to the exact.
Ignition Coil For Briggs and Stratton 4-Cycle Engines 84003819 844548 LG691060 | eBay
84003819 Replace MPN:844548 845606 843931. John Deere LG691060. Ignition Coil For Briggs and Stratton 4-Cycle Engines 491760 492416 590454 LG802. Suit for Many Briggs & Stratton Engines. TypeIgnition Coil.
www.ebay.com
#28
woodstover
woodstover
#29
chuckpen
chuckpen
#30
chuckpen
chuckpen
A couple thoughts to make your efforts a success from things I have noticed in your pictures, my experiences, and are in no particular order..
1. Plug up all the open areas you have and clean that engine. put dip stick filler back in, put plug in, cover the carb area with plastic. I use Spray 9 or Tough Stuff and it will clean and degrease everything, sprays off with water. I like the concentrated Spray 9, get from AMZN, you can make cleaner spray bottles with this diluted.
2. Your air box looks crooked in the pic. Tells me your carburetor mounting bolts may be loose. Get yourself a new air filter, plug, and change the oil.
3. your carb is a "chokeless version that depends on the primer bulb to squirt gas into the carb for initial start. with the cover off the air box look inside and be sure when you press the primer bulb you see a squirt of gas in the throat of the carb. If not you might need a gasket or some ferreting to find out why. If airbox / carb bolts are found to be loose, then that would cause this.
4. Check every bolt on that engine for being tight. especially the carb, air box runner that goes to the head. Everything. Don't go crazy but just check em for being run down snug.
5. Be really careful when putting on the new coil. Those mounting ears are very easy to break off (then you are done) as you are tightening steel screws into aluminum. clean, inspect, test run in both screws when mounting the new coil. I would clean the threaded holes as well and maybe use a lil WD in the holes to make it a smooth install., take some sandpaper and sand the top contact area on each post as you need a good ground between your new coil and engine. Be sure to test fit any new mounting screws that may come with new coil as the threads could be different. Do not force anything!
6. It can be easy to mount a coil backwards. be sure to get the coil oriented properly and gap the coil with a business card between coils and flywheel magnets or to about 10 thousand if you want to get crazy. Just need a gap, no rub.
7. other poster is correct; you can try pretty much any Briggs coil as they are pretty much all the same. I have a few that I keep for testing and such.
OK, I'm done ..... Apologies for singing to the choir but hey it is Saturday and I just had to get it out.
1. Plug up all the open areas you have and clean that engine. put dip stick filler back in, put plug in, cover the carb area with plastic. I use Spray 9 or Tough Stuff and it will clean and degrease everything, sprays off with water. I like the concentrated Spray 9, get from AMZN, you can make cleaner spray bottles with this diluted.
2. Your air box looks crooked in the pic. Tells me your carburetor mounting bolts may be loose. Get yourself a new air filter, plug, and change the oil.
3. your carb is a "chokeless version that depends on the primer bulb to squirt gas into the carb for initial start. with the cover off the air box look inside and be sure when you press the primer bulb you see a squirt of gas in the throat of the carb. If not you might need a gasket or some ferreting to find out why. If airbox / carb bolts are found to be loose, then that would cause this.
4. Check every bolt on that engine for being tight. especially the carb, air box runner that goes to the head. Everything. Don't go crazy but just check em for being run down snug.
5. Be really careful when putting on the new coil. Those mounting ears are very easy to break off (then you are done) as you are tightening steel screws into aluminum. clean, inspect, test run in both screws when mounting the new coil. I would clean the threaded holes as well and maybe use a lil WD in the holes to make it a smooth install., take some sandpaper and sand the top contact area on each post as you need a good ground between your new coil and engine. Be sure to test fit any new mounting screws that may come with new coil as the threads could be different. Do not force anything!
6. It can be easy to mount a coil backwards. be sure to get the coil oriented properly and gap the coil with a business card between coils and flywheel magnets or to about 10 thousand if you want to get crazy. Just need a gap, no rub.
7. other poster is correct; you can try pretty much any Briggs coil as they are pretty much all the same. I have a few that I keep for testing and such.
OK, I'm done ..... Apologies for singing to the choir but hey it is Saturday and I just had to get it out.
#32
superchief87
superchief87