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little help on a briggs and stratton i think clasic 35 mower

#1

A

angellonewolf

heres a qundry for you engine that has fuel and spark but does not run

i had given to me a mountfield mower that was not running is a bit of a sorry state needing a cable for the stop bar
and in need of a good clean carb and tank as it was i think hanging around for a while

its got spark as i got a inline spark tester and its got fuel as it smells and is wet when i take out the plug

any ideas on what wrong


#2

L

logan01

You can check the carb however it probably needs a rebuild or replacement. Sounds like too much fuel is moving and flooding the plug instead of allowing vapors to ignite.


#3

cpurvis

cpurvis

The spark plug may be fouled. No more than they cost, I'd replace it and see if that helps.


#4

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logan01

dry the plug and with fresh gas and air cleaner removed, spray a little carb cleaner or ether into carb. If it starts and begins to die, spray a little more for 3-4 times and see if it picks up the fuel and runs on its own.


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Don't even think about cleaning / drying the plug, once they get wet it is all over red rover.
The only way to reliably clean a fouled plug is to burn the deposit off with an oxygen rich flame.
So start by checking the flywheel key.
remove the engin cowel and the bolt that holds on the flywheel.
Both the flywheel & the crank have a rectangular slot cut in them which comes together to form a perfect square.
If and only if it is still a perfect square reassemble and try a new plug.
If not a perfect square remove the flywheel & replace the broken key.


#6

L

logan01

Don't even think about cleaning / drying the plug, once they get wet it is all over red rover.
The only way to reliably clean a fouled plug is to burn the deposit off with an oxygen rich flame.
So start by checking the flywheel key.
remove the engin cowel and the bolt that holds on the flywheel.
Both the flywheel & the crank have a rectangular slot cut in them which comes together to form a perfect square.
If and only if it is still a perfect square reassemble and try a new plug.
If not a perfect square remove the flywheel & replace the broken key.
Respectfully disagree with your opinion on drying plugs. I have cleaned and dried dozens of plugs without issue. Wire brush, sandpaper, at times just a rag; no problem. Cleaned several with gasoline.


#7

A

angellonewolf

sorry for the delay in posting back but took pics last night but where to big so had to resize them

20150826_204707.jpg (99.6 KB)

20150826_204651.jpg (227.7 KB)

had a thought last night about the key but it looks fine but took pic any way

i have only had one broken keyway so i did not cheak it right away

the carb is clean and as is the fuel tank as i had done both of those things

i will try another spark plug but as i do have a inline spark indocater does this not show the spark plug working right ?


thanks for the help i hope to get this sorted as i dont like beening got the better of but will say its not worth spending money as its not in great condition so the resale value is about 」30 max and it cost me 」10 to buy i have put on 2nd hand cable i dont mined spending time but not money on it can it be any thing to do with the valves ???

again thanks for any help

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#8

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logan01

The inline spark tester shows the coil is sending spark to the spark plug. It doesn't show you condition of spark plug. Is it just me because of the angle of the photo or is that flywheel key in bad need of replacement. Looks like it's sitting at a less than desirable angle, broken, etc which screws up the timing which prevents the mower from starting/running properly.


#9

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logan01

That key is broken.


#10

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bertsmobile1

Respectfully disagree with your opinion on drying plugs. I have cleaned and dried dozens of plugs without issue. Wire brush, sandpaper, at times just a rag; no problem. Cleaned several with gasoline.

And not meaning to be argumentative but modern fuel is very electrically conductive at much lower pressure and voltage than real petrol was.
Modern plugs do not have any glazing on the electrode insulator which renders mechanical cleaning very difficult.
The insulator on modern plugs is deeper that the old ones so you can not get to the bottom.
So yes while you can clean the metallic parts of the electrodes, you can not clean the insulator properly except with hot grit blasting or burning off.
Rubbing the 20% of the insulator that protrudes with a wire brush leaves metal streaks in the insultor which visibly becomes grey looking.
The grey colour is the steel from the end of your brush depositing on the electrode which then creates a conductine path around the node of the center electrode which effectivle defeats the purpose of having a porcelean insulator. This may or may not render the plug inoperative.
Sometimes you can remove a bit of baked on carbon on a oil fouled plug enough for it to work again.
I have probably cleaned 1000's of plugs in the past, but that is all behind me now because the fuels & plugs we get now days are nothing like what we used to get when I was learning how to do things mechanical.

Modern fuels burn hotter than the old days and modern engines burn a lot leaner so plugs have changed to comply with modern conditions.
Ask around your social circle and see how many of them has had a pug go bad, brand new right out of the box.
most think it was a bad plug due to poor quality control and just get another but this is not the case.
Each & every plug is tested on the production line then graded according to the results of the test then labled also according to the results of the test so no way to get a bad plug, brand new.
what happens is fuel deposits on the unglazed insulator and shorts out the plug.
Modern fuels do not evaporate like real petrol does so the plug never dries unless it is washed with a solvent to remove the fuel deposit then blown dry, or heated enough to vapourise the oil deposit.

For some fun we had a bet on how long a fouled plug I pulled out of an mates engine would burn.
Once we got it going, it burned ( like a candle ) for 17 minutes. I remember that very accurately because I lost $ 10.00 on the bet.

Now getting back to the actual problem and to the methodology of offering help on an open forum.
The OP has a problem which we are trying to help him overcome so any advice given must be 100% fool proof and not have any chance of introducing another variabe to the problem thus complicating the diagnosis / repair.
So it is fit a brand spanking new plug, thus eliminating plug earthing. One problem at a time.
He can keep the plug and try it latter on just in case it was not the root cause or a contributor to the problem.


#11

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logan01

It's all good. You toss 'em and I'll keep 'em.:thumbsup:


#12

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bertsmobile1

Well get yerself a good catcher mitt .
I will face North East and give em a good toss.
Takes about 25 hours flying time to Alabama so after I toss em I will send you a PM in good time to catch em :laughing:


#13

L

logan01

Well get yerself a good catcher mitt .
I will face North East and give em a good toss.
Takes about 25 hours flying time to Alabama so after I toss em I will send you a PM in good time to catch em :laughing:

Now that's the spirit. Hope we didn't scare off the OP.:confused2:


#14

A

angellonewolf

Nope not been offended a good bit of banter it good

Looking at the key it looks good and in line or am I wrong ?

And I think I can remove a good working plug from my mower and will test with that hope a bit later

Valve clearances ?


#15

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gainestruk

The key looks broken to me.


#16

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logan01

Nope not been offended a good bit of banter it good

Looking at the key it looks good and in line or am I wrong ?

And I think I can remove a good working plug from my mower and will test with that hope a bit later

Valve clearances ?

Take another look at the key alignment as compared to the recess it sits in. Note the angular difference. Not even close to being aligned / parallel. That allows the shaft to slip in relation to the flywheel which results in the motor being out of time thus a no start condition. Additionally, the key might even be broken. When you take care of it, make sure the key, groove, and shaft are bone dry; no lube.


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