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Used mower. The left wheel is a little more worse camber than the right.
It doesn't appear that the drag links or spindles are bent. I did notice the spindles move around in the axle much like a worn ball joint on a car. I am working off of page 12 of this parts list.

http://service.webec.husqvarna.net/...nNAes/HUSI2012_NAenNAes_LGT2654_581540027.pdf

I ordered a pair of #7 and #8. Gee, they are only washers.
When I took the spindle off, I found a plastic (PLASTIC?!?) bushing at the top of #2, front axle assembly not in the IPL.

I ordered these. Are these correct? They don't really match per picture but the part number is right.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-B...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Are there metal (perhaps brass) replacements?

On the bottom of the axle it appears that there is a bushing that goes into the axle that is worn, also does not appear to be in the IPL.
Here's a pic.

Does this come out? I was thinking of driving it out from the top and putting another in.
If it does come out, is this the replacement?
https://www.allmowerspares.com.au/husqvarna-front-wheel-bush-532-12-49-59.html
Or am I looking at replacing the axle assembly?

Any other tips to upgrade the steering on this thing?

Thanks so much for your help!

Your Husqvarna is identical to the 100 series JD's
There is a steering upgrade kit available for the 100 series JD's that will drop right in because they are identical.
The kit has the 2 steering bushes and flanged bearings for the wheels.
Not sure if it comes with the 4 dust caps as well as only fitted 2 of them in 5 years as I can get the individual parts wholesale cheaper.

If your mower had the steel bushes in the wheels check the UNDERSIDE of the axels.
Generally they are worn to an arc so new bushings will not make any difference.
There is another kit that comes with both axels, wheel bushes steering bushes & caps.

Go to U-Tube, search Taryl Fixes All log into his channel then search JD front axels.
He did a good video about the whole thing.
Both JD & Husqvarna buy in the cast iron front member, the wheels & the steering arms/axels.
Down here is the opposite to up there , JD parts retail are cheaper than Husky parts wholesale so I regularly fit JD parts to huskies.

Stens do a very good flanged bearing to replace the wheel bearings & I fit them regularly because they are so good, and only $ 3 dearer than the bush.
When the wheel is out, remove the grease nipple clean it and the hole very well the apply RED locktite and do it up really tight.
They come loose in use and then the grease ouzes out the threads and not into the wheel hub.

FWIW I like to fit these at the back of the hub Stens 230-128 and these at the front Stens 215-079
The 079 is open so grease can get in the 126 is closed.
I have even fitted the TORO wheel bearing Stens 215-267 in cases where the idiot owner has run on buggered bushes for so long that have mashed up the hub so bad a std bearing will not fit.
In these cases the hub must be packed out with high tensile ( hard ) washers so the hub can not slide sideways and must only go on brand new axels.

I appreciate the reply, bertsmobile1.

The spindles (what you call axles) are fine. There is very little play there on both of my front wheels.

The picture I show above that I am asking about is of the axle - the long cast iron bar that the spindles ride in.
It appears that there is a bushing in the bottom and it appears worn (see above pic).
Is that the case? Have you replaced one of those, or does the whole axle need replaced?

On a John Deere L120 I had I replaced the thrust washer with a needle bearing (video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-Alj_xvjJY) and I replaced the wheel bushings with bearings (there is a JD Technote on that). Made the steering much easier on the JD.

BTW, love Taryl's videos.

Engineering wise spindles are vertical, axels are horizontal & have a wheel of some sort running on them.
The spindle bushes top & bottom are top hat style & just tap out .
They do mushroom over so can be a bit difficult to remove.
Fairly sure Taryl does knock them out on the video ( been a while since I looked at it )
If your 120 had the cast iron cross member then it will be identical to your current mower

As for the spindle bushes, I knock the bottom out using an air hammer on the bush.
For the top I have a drift that fits in once the bottom is out .
The drift goes in and then is packed up to support the mower & I then use a pipe over the upper bush and hammer it down to remove the upper.

Prior to making the bushes I took the cross member out and pressed the bushes in & out but time is money so the drifts have made me a lot of cash.
OTOH the two bushes on the pivot in the centre of the cross member also wear .
They tend to wear cone shape which allows the cross bar to rotate front back as you turn the wheels.
Excess wear is apparent from wear in the debris shield around the cross member.
When they went to the double drag link , quick steer set up it put a massive twisting moment on that cross member which floggs out the bushes #532-19-47-37

Thanks again for the reply. I've been on vacation and only now have had time to get back to this.

So I think I understand what you are saying, I just need part numbers. I am looking for the bushes/bushings for the bottom and top of this piece. This is what I feel is causing my negative camber.
These are not in my parts list. Do you have part numbers? Or do I have to buy a whole new piece?

First here is the piece.


Here is the top with it's bushes/bushing. It appears to be plastic.


And here is the bottom. It appears that there is a bush/bushing here as well.

As previously mentioned. go to the JD web page and search for 100 series mowers.
JD parts breakdowns can be viewed, printed but not downloaded.
Also check out the full steering service kits as shown in Taryls video.

Lower one is 532 12 49-31 called a thrust washer
Top is 532 12 49-37 plastic
Some run 532 12 49-37 top & bottom and with them the 532 12 49-31 is also fitted between the bush & the cross member.

Don't have the JD numbers on me as the customer gets receipts for all parts I pay retail for so they can see I am not marking them up.

From memory the wheel bushing 532 00 90-40 is also the same size.
As does the Murray wheel bush 491334MA which is also plastic
You have the mower right there in front of you knock one out & see if it fits.

Measure the ID of the hole.
Fairly sure it is 1 3/8" which is the same ID as the wheel hubs
The shaft size is 3/4"

Go to Stens, Rotary , Oregon , Prime Line and search "Bushing"
They all do them.
If you want really quick steering you could even use the same flanged bearings as I mentioned before or a TORO roller hub bearing.

Knew I would have a copy somewhere.
The JD bushes are M117856.
The same bush is fitted top & bottom.

bertsmobile1 said:

Knew I would have a copy somewhere.
The JD bushes are M117856.
The same bush is fitted top & bottom.

Click to expand...

Sweet, exactly what I was looking for!
Ordered 4. Will let you know how it comes out.

Please do.
there are a lot of mowers that use this axel set up and I would hazard a guess that the cast iron front cross member is a bought in item.
Some list bushes some list thrust washers some list both & some list none
Those particular bushes are the same size as the wheel bushes which are the same size as the bearings I mentioned before.
A bush takes a much higher impact load than a bearing so bushes for the steering pin & bearings for the wheel axel is the best way to go.

Welp, I could not get them to work. The OD is too large. I even froze them for 24 hours but they still would not slip in.
I didn't mic them to determine how much larger they are, but I just cannot get them to go into the axle without tearing them up.

I went ahead and ordered these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CINFAJC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Must be a slight model change , on the ones I do down here they tap in.
Sorry about that.