Unit is a Troy Built 32 cc 2-cycle. I can only keep it running with the choke partially to mostly closed. Have done the standard stuff (cleaned & rebuilt carb, new spark plug, clean air filter, new fuel lines, cleaned fuel filter, cleaned muffler screen, new fuel). Checked compression @ about 95-100 psi which seemed about right but not sure. Suspect ignition coil which checked as follows: Plug wire to Grd: 2.4 K ohms. Plug wire to positive terminal: 3.0 K ohms. Positive terminal to Grd: 0.78 K ohms. Unit initially would show problem until it ran awhile but now its continuous. Checked cylinder also: Cylinder and cylinder wall and two cylinder rings look OK. Focusing on ignition coil but sure could use some input from the Forum.
That is within specs at least for the chart I looked at. Sounds like primary is good, secondary winding is weak.
#6
Russ2251
You have an induction issue...not electrical.
There is a tiny cup shaped micro-screen in body of carb.
Can be carefully removed with a pointed exacto blade.
This screen will clog over time and cause the problem you describe.
It is easily cleaned.
There is a tiny cup shaped micro-screen in body of carb.
Can be carefully removed with a pointed exacto blade.
This screen will clog over time and cause the problem you describe.
It is easily cleaned.
that was my first thought as well but in the original post he said that he cleaned the carb, so I am assuming that included the screen which is the reason I started looking at ignition. Some of the new ignition modules will fail and cause the same symptoms as a lack of fuel issue. the new modules on a lot of products are variable timing and have built in rev limiters. so they will go into rev limit mode at a lower than normal rpm, or put out the wrong timing on the spark will mimics a lack of fuel.
#8
Russ2251
modules will fail and cause the same symptoms as a lack of fuel issue.
Sure appreciate the good advice. This small farm has a good number of small engine equipment and,consequently, I'm often tearing things apart. The small screen mentioned in the carb is one of the first things I check although carbs are cheap and even after putting it through my sonic cleaner a number of times then re-building it, I'm thinking of simply getting a new carb. Its either the ignition coil or carb and the a new coil can run half the cost of a whole new blower.
And make sure you are using the correct plug and that the said same plug is correctly gapped.
Mower engines which run very slow ( 3600 rpm ) are not particularly fussy plug wise.
However high speed two strokes that do anything from 9000 rpm to 15000 rpm are quite a different story.
make sure you no air leaksxat carb /manifold block gasket or boot, make sure you have no leak(s) at base gasket , then check crankcase seals all of which could cause fuel pump to not operate correctly and cause same or similar symptoms as restricted inlet screen in carb
Amazon has a complete fuel system rebuild kit (new carb, primer bulb, fuel lines, air & fuel filters, gaskets) for this Troy Built blower for less than $20. Got the kit and installed everything that came with it. Engine started at second pull and ran like new. Still not sure where the problem was but this 'shotgun' approach worked. Sure appreciate all the help as each project is a learning experience.
