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Lazer Z HP Hydro and Oil Filter?
#1
Gorrillasnot
Gorrillasnot
hello,
I have a 52" Lazer Z HP model LHP5220KC.
The manual calls for part number 513211 hydro filter which is 10 micron, parts tree shows eXmark 109-4180 which is a 25 micron filter both filters mentioned are close to $30.
I watched a video on youtube showing how to change the hydro fluid n filter on a lazer z https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlPM7hhGylY and the guy uses a napa part# 1374 (same as wix 51374?) filter which is 25 micron and is like $8
I called the dealer and they said not to use anything except a Exmark brand 10 micron filter ($35 from them and $19 per quart for 15W-50 synthetic oil).
My question is would the napa/wix filter be ok to use or maybe a 10 micron Stens or should I pay up and get the exmark brand filter? ?
Also would following the youtube video be a ok procedure for changing the fluid? (I don't understand the need to loosen the freewheel valves)
And for the oil filter for a Kohler CV640 20HP Khohler part # 12 050 01S what would be a good alternative that maybe a local walmart or auto parts store might carry?
thanks
I have a 52" Lazer Z HP model LHP5220KC.
The manual calls for part number 513211 hydro filter which is 10 micron, parts tree shows eXmark 109-4180 which is a 25 micron filter both filters mentioned are close to $30.
I watched a video on youtube showing how to change the hydro fluid n filter on a lazer z https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlPM7hhGylY and the guy uses a napa part# 1374 (same as wix 51374?) filter which is 25 micron and is like $8
I called the dealer and they said not to use anything except a Exmark brand 10 micron filter ($35 from them and $19 per quart for 15W-50 synthetic oil).
My question is would the napa/wix filter be ok to use or maybe a 10 micron Stens or should I pay up and get the exmark brand filter? ?
Also would following the youtube video be a ok procedure for changing the fluid? (I don't understand the need to loosen the freewheel valves)
And for the oil filter for a Kohler CV640 20HP Khohler part # 12 050 01S what would be a good alternative that maybe a local walmart or auto parts store might carry?
thanks
#2
B
bertsmobile1
NO absolutely not.
Inside the hydro is a plate which does not move through which the oil flows.
On top of this is a round block with a number of pistons in it which get moved by the oil coming through the stationary plate.
There are no seals on either the pistons or between the two plates.
Normal use will cause wear between these two by errosion even with clean oil.
The tiny particles of dirt act like a hydroblast and errode the working faces even faster.
So the finner the filter, the longer the hydro will last.
Once you no longer have an oil tight seal between the two parts the hydro is trash, expensive trash.
Ant there are two of these set ups, one is the pump and the other is the motor.
So do you want to risk a $ 600 tranny to save $ 22 once every 2 years
B
bertsmobile1
hello,
I have a 52" Lazer Z HP model LHP5220KC.
The manual calls for part number 513211 hydro filter which is 10 micron, parts tree shows eXmark 109-4180 which is a 25 micron filter both filters mentioned are close to $30.
I watched a video on youtube showing how to change the hydro fluid n filter on a lazer z https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlPM7hhGylY and the guy uses a napa part# 1374 (same as wix 51374?) filter which is 25 micron and is like $8
I called the dealer and they said not to use anything except a Exmark brand 10 micron filter ($35 from them and $19 per quart for 15W-50 synthetic oil).
My question is would the napa/wix filter be ok to use or maybe a 10 micron Stens or should I pay up and get the exmark brand filter? ?
Also would following the youtube video be a ok procedure for changing the fluid? (I don't understand the need to loosen the freewheel valves)
And for the oil filter for a Kohler CV640 20HP Khohler part # 12 050 01S what would be a good alternative that maybe a local walmart or auto parts store might carry?
thanks
NO absolutely not.
Inside the hydro is a plate which does not move through which the oil flows.
On top of this is a round block with a number of pistons in it which get moved by the oil coming through the stationary plate.
There are no seals on either the pistons or between the two plates.
Normal use will cause wear between these two by errosion even with clean oil.
The tiny particles of dirt act like a hydroblast and errode the working faces even faster.
So the finner the filter, the longer the hydro will last.
Once you no longer have an oil tight seal between the two parts the hydro is trash, expensive trash.
Ant there are two of these set ups, one is the pump and the other is the motor.
So do you want to risk a $ 600 tranny to save $ 22 once every 2 years
#3
C
cruzenmike
C
cruzenmike
I second bertsmobile1 on this. The eXmark filter should be a bi-directional unit allowing for filtering of fluid as it flows in either direction. if it calls for a 10 micron filter do not get anything larger unless eXmark themselves tell you to. The smaller micron filter will be able to take out smaller sized particles (contaminants) helping to increase the life of the transmission by reducing internal wear. As for the fluid, only use the eXmark hydro oil! Zinc was removed from Mobil 1 and alike so unless you buy off-road oil with zinc added you won't get this essential mineral in the oil; it plays a role in heat absorption and dissipation. I just did the hydro service on my lazer z at 480 hours and all the manual said to do was unscrew the filter, let drain on its own, fill new filter with oil and wet seal, reinstall new filter, top off reservoir to cold line and then raise rear end off ground and run at full throttle/speed for a few minutes. Once done, lower to ground, check level and add fluid as needed. I continued to check the cold level before each mow and added as needed. You don't want all of the fluid out as it can lead to cavitation in the pumps. The directions in your manual may differ, but follow them to the T! The transmissions on these mowers are way too expensive to risk deviating from specified filters, oils or changing procedures!! As for the cost, it's just one down side to having a quality piece of equipment. Ferrari oil changes aren't cheap either you know!
#4
Gorrillasnot
Gorrillasnot
Thanks for the replies guys.
Its not that I am cheap, but I am not rich either. I guess I just don't understand what would make a Exmark brand filter cost $35. Would it be much different then a Oregon 83-010 which cross references to a Exmark 513211 and is also a 10 micron filter?
Bottom line though is I don't want to destroy my hydros by cheaping out..If you all say to buy the Exmark brand filter and fluid then that is what I will do.
I did pony up and buy the kohler brand filter for the engine. It was only $8 (cheap parts store cross reference was like $3.50 so not that much difference) and some Rotella 10w30 oil.
thanks
Its not that I am cheap, but I am not rich either. I guess I just don't understand what would make a Exmark brand filter cost $35. Would it be much different then a Oregon 83-010 which cross references to a Exmark 513211 and is also a 10 micron filter?
Bottom line though is I don't want to destroy my hydros by cheaping out..If you all say to buy the Exmark brand filter and fluid then that is what I will do.
I did pony up and buy the kohler brand filter for the engine. It was only $8 (cheap parts store cross reference was like $3.50 so not that much difference) and some Rotella 10w30 oil.
thanks
#5
B
bertsmobile1
Aftermarket is fine, just so long it is the same or better specs than the OEM parts
Oregon & Stens filters do have a warranty which CAN extend to mechanical damage ( hard to prove )
If I can fit an aftermarket filter that is a better price I do but with hydros, there are not many that are up to scratch.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks for the replies guys.
Its not that I am cheap, but I am not rich either. I guess I just don't understand what would make a Exmark brand filter cost $35. Would it be much different then a Oregon 83-010 which cross references to a Exmark 513211 and is also a 10 micron filter?
Bottom line though is I don't want to destroy my hydros by cheaping out..If you all say to buy the Exmark brand filter and fluid then that is what I will do.
I did pony up and buy the kohler brand filter for the engine. It was only $8 (cheap parts store cross reference was like $3.50 so not that much difference) and some Rotella 10w30 oil.
thanks
Aftermarket is fine, just so long it is the same or better specs than the OEM parts
Oregon & Stens filters do have a warranty which CAN extend to mechanical damage ( hard to prove )
If I can fit an aftermarket filter that is a better price I do but with hydros, there are not many that are up to scratch.
#6
Gorrillasnot
Gorrillasnot
Would you roll the dice on a Oregon filter?
I found a repair shop that said they would change the hydro fluid and filter for $40 including parts (local Exmark dealer quoted $200ish for fluid and filter change)..I asked about filter brand and he didn't say but did confirm it would be a 10 micron filter.
I've never changed hydro fluid before so I am leaning towards letting the shop do it or if I get brave buy the fluid and filter from them.
thanks
I found a repair shop that said they would change the hydro fluid and filter for $40 including parts (local Exmark dealer quoted $200ish for fluid and filter change)..I asked about filter brand and he didn't say but did confirm it would be a 10 micron filter.
I've never changed hydro fluid before so I am leaning towards letting the shop do it or if I get brave buy the fluid and filter from them.
thanks
#7
BlazNT
BlazNT
You can not buy the oil for that price. I would have to believe they would not be using the correct oil.
#8
B
bertsmobile1
That is about the price of an engine oil change, not a tranny change,
There is at least 1 hour of work in it +oil + filter
At wholesale price , adjusted for countries, I could not buy oil $ 38 & filter $ 15 for that much.
So either he made a big mistake or is fitting rubbish oil & filter.
And again, if I fit an aftermarket filter is has to be the same specs or better than OEM and a lot of the Stens, Rotary, Oregon filters fall short.
B
bertsmobile1
Would you roll the dice on a Oregon filter?
I found a repair shop that said they would change the hydro fluid and filter for $40 including parts (local Exmark dealer quoted $200ish for fluid and filter change)..I asked about filter brand and he didn't say but did confirm it would be a 10 micron filter.
I've never changed hydro fluid before so I am leaning towards letting the shop do it or if I get brave buy the fluid and filter from them.
thanks
That is about the price of an engine oil change, not a tranny change,
There is at least 1 hour of work in it +oil + filter
At wholesale price , adjusted for countries, I could not buy oil $ 38 & filter $ 15 for that much.
So either he made a big mistake or is fitting rubbish oil & filter.
And again, if I fit an aftermarket filter is has to be the same specs or better than OEM and a lot of the Stens, Rotary, Oregon filters fall short.
#9
Gorrillasnot
Gorrillasnot
I ended up buying the filter (Oregon 83-010 for $12) from the shop, but not the oil. He wanted 6.99 a quart for the oil which was NAPA synthetic 15w50.
I found a parts store that had Mobil 1 synthetic 15w50 on sale for $5.88 a quart and bought a couple quarts. Oil and filter total was just under $24
I took the old filter off and let it drain until it quit dripping, then filled the new filter with oil and spun it on, but left it fairly loose. Then I added a bit of oil until it was running down the sides of the filter. I then tightened the filter up snug. Tightened it a bit more with a filter wrench since it was slippery to make sure it was snug. Next I filled the reservoir up to the cold mark and put the lid back on. Jacked up the back wheels, fired her up at a fast idle, then pushed the handles forward for 30secs, then backwards for 30, then 1 forward and 1 backwards etc. Then I shut it off and let everything sit for a couple hours. Checked the fluid and added just a dab to bring it back to the cold level. Ran through the forward and backward procedure as before then shut it down and waited about an hour and rechecked the fluid. It was full.
Afterward I mowed my yard and everything seems to be working ok.
sorry for the long post, but I wanted to see if the procedure I used for changing the fluid was ok or not. btw it took about 1 and a 1/2 quarts..does that sound about right?
thanks
I found a parts store that had Mobil 1 synthetic 15w50 on sale for $5.88 a quart and bought a couple quarts. Oil and filter total was just under $24
I took the old filter off and let it drain until it quit dripping, then filled the new filter with oil and spun it on, but left it fairly loose. Then I added a bit of oil until it was running down the sides of the filter. I then tightened the filter up snug. Tightened it a bit more with a filter wrench since it was slippery to make sure it was snug. Next I filled the reservoir up to the cold mark and put the lid back on. Jacked up the back wheels, fired her up at a fast idle, then pushed the handles forward for 30secs, then backwards for 30, then 1 forward and 1 backwards etc. Then I shut it off and let everything sit for a couple hours. Checked the fluid and added just a dab to bring it back to the cold level. Ran through the forward and backward procedure as before then shut it down and waited about an hour and rechecked the fluid. It was full.
Afterward I mowed my yard and everything seems to be working ok.
sorry for the long post, but I wanted to see if the procedure I used for changing the fluid was ok or not. btw it took about 1 and a 1/2 quarts..does that sound about right?
thanks