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Looks like the shutoff on my mower. Pry the metal strips away from the green plastic extension and the white plastic knob will pull out. A rubber seal disc opens and closes a port to let the gas in the line. Probably not actually rubber but something gas proof.

Go to www.shoplawnboy.com. Have your model and your serial numbers handy. There you can find all of the parts that are still available. I know for a fact that some of the items you are looking for are NLA from the manufacturer, Toro, but some may be. I have been lucky sometimes on Ebay to find critical must have parts. Also, don't be shocked at the price of some of the available parts. Good luck.

For parts that are NLA check with your local repair shops, we always get a couple of those units in every year and just jack them out.

The bagger should work just fine for you. I just bought an NOS bagger kit #89814, and it fits both my 1973 #7262, which is identical to your 7261, and also my 1975 #5024 Bricktop. I was looking up the differences between the 89814 and 89817, and the only thing I could find different is the 89817 has an extra piece of rod that my kit didn’t have. Check around on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for your bagger. I snatched the one I got for $25 while two more of the same kits were listed for $90 and $125 each. I mowed with my Bricktop Wednesday afternoon and it worked great.



L8R,
Matt

The Off/On switch, primer bulb, and fuel shutoff can all be found on eBay easily. I think the switch and shutoff valve will be the most expensive at around $18 each.

L8R,
Matt

Thanks for the info! Im trying to rebuild the motor now. I tried to post a pic but it says "The uploaded file is too large."

You can choose to resize the pic when you go to add it to your post.

L8R,
Matt

Here's the motor, Just waiting on parts.

I changed the hand grip today.

The engine came with 33 needle bearings (677963) between the crank and connecting rod caps. The new set of needles (683911) came with 32 needles. Somewhere i read there was a Service Bulletin that takes 1 needle away. Is that for more oil on the crank? Does anyone have a link to the Service Bulletin?

Stevenn1 said:

The engine came with 33 needle bearings (677963) between the crank and connecting rod caps. The new set of needles (683911) came with 32 needles. Somewhere i read there was a Service Bulletin that takes 1 needle away. Is that for more oil on the crank? Does anyone have a link to the Service Bulletin?

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I remember reading this too, but I think it was for heat expansion. I’ll have to look around to see if I can find it for sure.

L8R,
Matt

This is where i'm at in the 'restoration' process. Not perfect. But a lot better then before. I regret not taking before pics.

None of mine are perfect. If any of them were, I wouldn’t want to use them. No garage queens for me.

2smoked said:

None of mine are perfect. If any of them were, I wouldn’t want to use them. No garage queens for me.

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Same here. I was going to restore my 5024 Bricktop, but I love mowing with it. I alternate my two Lawn Boys every week for mowing.

L8R,
Matt

Steven, I would have put the blade on exactly like you did. It just looks right. But the Lawn-Boy maintenance manual shows that the washer goes between the blade and the stiffener, not between the nut and the glade. Refer to page 9-15, 225th page in the manual ( or just search for tri-cut). Hmm...that also moves the blade down about half a notch on the height adjusters.

Using the Tricut blade, the blade stiffener is eliminated.

L8R,
Matt

Matt: You bet, but his photo shows he is not using a tri-cut. He has the original flat-blade, stiffener, and washer (but not assembled in the right direction).

OK, so looking closely at the below-deck picture I have another question, Steven. Do you have two washers on it? Something like that? It looks to me that the nut is not all the way onto the end of the crank, a few threads shy.

Good eye! I only spun the nut 1 turn. Not even tight in the pic.