I have the above engine in my garden tractor. I have a snow-thrower attachment that I use to clear the driveway.
Lately, when I try to start the engine, it'll run for about 3 seconds before dying. No problems for many seasons prior to this. Oddly, there is a 30 amp fuse that keeps blowing as well. When that's blown, I can't even get the engine to crank.
I've replaced the fuse multiple times, replaced the hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, recharged the battery, took off the air filter to ensure good air flow, and checked the plugs. The oil level is fine too.
Sounds like an electrical problem of some sort, but I don't know were to begin and suggestions are appreciated!
#2
ILENGINE
After it dies from the 3 second run does it start back up or just blow the fuse. The two issues may be related but could also be separate issues.
EDIT: As noted above whilst I was on the phone!
Disconnect the oil pressure or level sensor and see if it continues to run
#6
Richard320
First thing is to find a wiring schematic.
Then you go to the auto parts store and buy either a circuit breaker or an old fashioned cheap turn signal flasher. You may need some jumper wires with alligator clips, too.
Connect whichever you got in place of that fuse that keeps popping. When you get an overload, it will let go then reset. Meanwhile you can move along unplugging things until it resets and stays reset. Or, if it suddenly decides to not overload, go along jiggling wires and connections until it does blow.
My gut says idle stop solenoid, but any dead short could steal voltage from the ignition and shut it down.
What's the year, make and model of the garden tractor that you're dealing with? If it's the Craftsman DGT6000, did it develope this problem since you recently put the snowblower assembly on the tractor? It sound like a electrical wire has schaffed or been pinched to ground causing a short that kills the engine and shorts out the fuse for the ignition circuit. Lots of times mice will build nest under the engine cooling fan shrouds and they'll chew into wires in the process. The attached .pdf file is of a schematic for a Craftsman 917275286 27hp, 48 inch deck Garden Tractor.
The carburetor has a ful solenoid on it that is powered through the main fuse
If for any reason the power supply to it fails the engine will stop.
A direct short will do this as will blowing the fuse
The carburetor has a ful solenoid on it that is powered through the main fuse
If for any reason the power supply to it fails the engine will stop.
A direct short will do this as will blowing the fuse
Similar thing happened with my CV740. Kept blowing main 20A fuse, although it took 20-60 mins. When the fuse was not blown, the thing would run, but only on full-choke and it would surge up and down. But then sometimes it ran fine. I tried absolutely everything including tearing off the heads and replacing carb. Turns out, the plug supplying 12v to the carb fuel solenoid was a bit loose, this bad connection drew more amps than normal and pulled more current than normal. I ran +12v straight to the carb solenoid as a diagnostic, all problems cleared up immediately. Clipped off the bullet connector on the mower side and replaced for around $0.10, thing runs like new again.
Problem is a lot more common than many would think.
As part of the diagnostic kit I keep a set of bowls with no solenoids.
The wires are not supported particulalrly well and I have found quite a few with frayed strands.
If any 2 touched for a very short time you have a direct short enough to blow the fuse .
So, here's the latest. I unplugged and cleaned every electrical connection I could see. Now the engine starts up without blowing the fuse, but it continues to die after 3 seconds. I'm guessing I had two separate issues.
Any suggestions for the dying engine? Again, I had replaced hoses and the fuel pump.
