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Kohler M8T Kick Back and hard start with recoil starter.

#1

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Farmalldude

I bought this Kohler M8T new about 25 years ago and put it on an older John Deere 110. It worked flawlessly when I parked it in the shed 8 or so years ago. I recently changed oil, squirted some oil in the cyl, gassed it up, ...and when I went to pull start it, it pulled a lot harder than it used to. It did start after a few pulls so I decided to proceed with installing it on a wood splitter. I got it bolted onto the wood splitter and gave it a pull, and it turned into the engine from hell; pulled really hard, then jerked the handle out of my hand and broke the recoil starter rope. I fixed all that and read up on the ACR, valve lash settings, timing, flywheel key shearing, etc. After removing carb, i opened up the valve cover to check the lash at TDC. My question is, how does a person adjust the valves? (I haven't actually measured the valve lash yet.) Maybe I should've checked flywheel first, or the ACR?


#2

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Rivets

The flywheel key is the first thing I would have told you to checked. I’ll put money that you will find it sheared or partially sheared.


#3

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slomo

Since there is no blade to act as a flywheel, might explain some of this. Bet the valves have never been set. Also never ran the mice off on the cooling fins either.

One valve open, check the closed valve. Rinse and repeat.


#4

R

Rivets

Slomo, it’s a horizontal engine on a tractor, I doubt the blades are directly attached to the PTO. Second, it is als a cast iron L-head engine. I couldn’t even remember the last time I had to adjust the valve clearance on a Kohler Magnum.


#5

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slomo

Rivets said:
Slomo, it’s a horizontal engine on a tractor, I doubt the blades are directly attached to the PTO. Second, it is als a cast iron L-head engine. I couldn’t even remember the last time I had to adjust the valve clearance on a Kohler Magnum.
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Great news. Was speaking in general terms. Most people never adjust L-head valves for some reason. Same for OHV I guess.


#6

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Rivets

There’s a reason for that, very seldom change because they are subjected to less heat.


#7

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slomo

Rivets said:
There’s a reason for that, very seldom change because they are subjected to less heat.
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They both have their own little valve tunnel. Not following on the heat deal. Valve faces are both in the combustion chamber. L valves are off to the side, see that. Not centrally in the combustion chamber.


#8

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Rivets

Not that hard to understand, it’s a horizontal engine. OHV heads run hotter because the rocker arm chamber gets more heat than the breather chamber on an L-head engine. More moving parts plus more heat results in valve guide migration, valve stretch, fasteners loosening etc. You’re the one constantly telling folks to keep the fins clean on OHV engines, I would think you would pickup on that before the average Joe.


#9

F

Farmalldude

Rivets said:
The flywheel key is the first thing I would have told you to checked. I’ll put money that you will find it sheared or partially sheared.
Click to expand...
Will return to the forum with the the results when I have them. Thank's for the advice.


#10

F

Farmalldude

slomo said:
They both have their own little valve tunnel. Not following on the heat deal. Valve faces are both in the combustion chamber. L valves are off to the side, see that. Not centrally in the combustion chamber.
Click to expand...
I blew the clippings out w air pressure when I used to mow w it. Can't say there was much on the cooling fins under the shroud when I removed it, but sound advice.


#11

F

Farmalldude

slomo said:
Since there is no blade to act as a flywheel, might explain some of this. Bet the valves have never been set. Also never ran the mice off on the cooling fins either.

One valve open, check the closed valve. Rinse and repeat.
Click to expand...
It is a horz. shaft engine not meant for a blade to attach to the crank. Surprisingly, no mouse nests anywhere. And you're right, the valves have never been adjusted since I bought it new.


#12

F

Farmalldude

Rivets said:
The flywheel key is the first thing I would have told you to checked. I’ll put money that you will find it sheared or partially sheared.
Click to expand...
I, perhaps erroneously, reasoned that since there was no blade attached directly to the crank, it was less likely to have a sheared key on the crank due to the belt drive acting like a buffer, but now I do wish I would've checked this first. Probably less hassle just pulling the flywheel first off. Will advise.


#13

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Farmall guy

Farmalldude said:
I, perhaps erroneously, reasoned that since there was no blade attached directly to the crank, it was less likely to have a sheared key on the crank due to the belt drive acting like a buffer, but now I do wish I would've checked this first. Probably less hassle just pulling the flywheel first off. Will advise.
Click to expand...


#14

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Farmall guy

Farmalldude said:
It is a horz. shaft engine not meant for a blade to attach to the crank. Surprisingly, no mouse nests anywhere. And you're right, the valves have never been adjusted since I bought it new.
Click to expand...
There is no adjusting these valves, short of removing them and shortening them w a grinder or increasing the depth of the valve seats, or installing new ones.


#15

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Farmall guy

The flywheel key was in perfect shape. Flywheel hadn't moved an iota. Will remove oil pan next and check ACR spring.


#16

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slomo

Farmall guy said:
There is no adjusting these valves, short of removing them and shortening them w a grinder or increasing the depth of the valve seats, or installing new ones.
Click to expand...
As you stated, you can adjust the valves. Easy job really. Little off the end is all it takes.


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