Okay i know some you uses pry bar and BFH but even that don't on this engine. And I got the puller that is list in the service but there is no get it attached. The two larage round holes are for the pins that holds the flywheel fan on and are not be threaded besides they are 5 inches on center the tool is only 3-3/4 on center.
Just how the heck are you suppose to remove the flywheel?
#2
ILENGINE
Kohler service says to remove flywheel by using a large gear puller under ring gear.
#3
StarTech
Always been afraid of damaging the ring gear. But where in the world am I going to find a 12" puller cheap. One time job probably. $300 is a little much.
#4
Hammermechanicman
I have used 2 wood wedges under the flywheel driven tight then drilled a pocket in the head of a bolt that fits the threads on the crank and used an air hammer on the bolt. They come right off.
I keep a bunch of different bolts around with pockets drilled in the head for the air hammer.
#5
StarTech
But the service advises against any impacts on the crankshaft on this particular engine. Maybe I just make up my own one time puller.
#6
Hammermechanicman
If the magnets are going to fall off they probably already have.
#7
StarTech
As I said I just made up my own puller and used the slots in the flywheel. It took a lot longer to make the temporary arms but the flywheel came off quickly with the impact gun.
OF course I could the air system as the compressor broke a rod a couple weeks ago. Just saving for a 60 gal upright now which would be a major upgrade to the 25 gal unit I had. Currently using a 10 gal unit to recharge the 25 gal tank.
Of course the arm tips gave some but what do you expect out cheap metal stabilizer arms. Probably will order some tool steel flat stock and work on making some stronger arms over the winter. Beside I need to work a design for pulling electric PTO clutches. Had another stuck clutch on the same engine project. Already had the cross bar made just got to get the puller arms designed to work.
#8
Hammermechanicman
This is the one I have. Runs air line pressure at 150psi. Gets used every day and in 5 years only thing that failed was the pressure switch. Easy fix. I installed an automatic tank drain and a contactor to lower the load on the switch contacts. Replaced a Parr brand compressor built in 1944.
Always been afraid of damaging the ring gear. But where in the world am I going to find a 12" puller cheap. One time job probably. $300 is a little much.
Have you checked to see if Autozone has a gear puller that would work in their free lending program?
#10
StarTech
Yes them along with Advance and O-Reillys all they had would go to 8" and the flywheel is at 10". I just made my own temporary puller and got the flywheel off and I didn't pull on the ring gear either.
Yes them along with Advance and O-Reillys all they had would go to 8" and the flywheel is at 10". I just made my own temporary puller and got the flywheel off and I didn't pull on the ring gear either.
I have a puller think it is 10”, and you can put finger extensions out to the end, be careful, past where you should, and has saved me on a couple of larger flywheels and even recently on a drum brake on my 1966 Mustang.
Okay i know some you uses pry bar and BFH but even that don't on this engine. And I got the puller that is list in the service but there is no get it attached. The two larage round holes are for the pins that holds the flywheel fan on and are not be threaded besides they are 5 inches on center the tool is only 3-3/4 on center.
hydraulic jack a flat steel and two J bolts hooked in the holes.
oh and a socket on the shaft of course.
#16
StarTech
To Admin please lock this topic. The problem was resolved by making my own puller; although, I can order an OTC 6575 puller, just didn't want to pull against the ring gear or spend $200 for a puller. Ordering flat tool steel to make some good puller arms since I now have the info I need to make them.