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I have never had to work on a lawn mower before but I do basic work on cars, I apologize if I don't understand I missing something easy with this issue(s). I have a Ford LGT 165, it starts and runs but about 20 mins into cutting the engine quits. Most of the time it seems like she is over heating, but everyone once in a while it starts to sound like spark is missing, after that it won't turn over. I was thinking it might be the ignition for the second set of symptoms but I am not sure. As for the overheating I have no idea whats causing that. Thank you in advance for any help.

First off, I would check and adjust the valves.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/kohler_valve_clearances.asp

Then cleaning and adjusting the points would be something else to do.

Here is a service manual for your engine. I'm guessing either a coil going bad or points/condenser problem.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

Yeah, use the manual to check your valves first... That is the more likely scenario, plus it is free to check......

We all are likely assuming that you have a battery ignition, but that is something to discuss after the valve check.

Valve clearance problems are very unlikely on the K341. I suspect as you do, coil breakdown.

Rivets said:

Valve clearance problems are very unlikely on the K341. I suspect as you do, coil breakdown.

Click to expand...

Yeah, valve adjustment is considered something you do routinely, but hey, that engine is only 30-40 years old......

And is free,= cheap to do and check.......

But some others will suggest you replace what? Coil? Points? Both? All?

Great link provided by Rivets. Read the part about the valve adjustment and the suggested interval, free to check, and may save someone here some money.......

Pages 18-22, or something close......

Thank you all for the links and advice. I will check the valves first because I have no idea when the last time that was done, just picked this thing up at the end of last summer. After that I have a feeling it might be points/coil. I rebuilt the carb when I got it last year. The spark plug looks brand new, no fouling at all.

A nice non-fouled plug makes me think that the ignition is fairly healthy, but dying when hot, is a classic indicator of valves too tight. Yes, the coil breakdown theory always pops it's head up, and hell it could be a fuel starvation problem, for all we would know.
But the valve adjustment on this model is easy to check and adjust, so why not check that first? But on some of these engines I have seen some bizarre redneck engineering, as they approach these engines not knowing whether they have a battery or magneto ignition, and could have put the wrong parts on in the past. Snap a pic or two if you could.

I am back. Valves are good. Realized something new. When the thing goes to die if I cut the power to the desk, mower continues to run no issues. I put new belts on at start of season. Also new idler pulley and bearing. Checked the rest of pulleys and bears all looked good. My understanding is the deck belt runs off the engine. If so is my engine dying?

Sounds like your charging system might be weak, assuming that you have battery ignition. Sounds like The pto clutch is robbing juice to your coil, and when you shut off the deck, sufficient voltage is again supplied to the ignition.

You need to check your output from the alt and regulator, and also might want to adjust your pto clutch, if it is
adjustable.