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Anyone know what this might be? I start my old workhorse 1976 Troy Bilt Garden Way Horse Tiller with Kohler k161 engine, she idles and runs fine for a few minutes , then dies.She fires right back up.We do that 20 times until it gets warm then it runs fine.I have noticed that she is prone to flooding at start up if you don't get her to fire on first few pulls.
I have noticed,when she is running that if I immediately cut the throttle back to low idle when she acts like she is about to die , it will continue running and I can increase the throttle back to desired setting
I'm thinking float in carb but the running fine when warm messes up that theory.Also, another piece of info, the gas tank petcock is dripping just a little if not fully open.

Dirty carb combined with low compression. The truth is it could be several things one at a time or all at once. Carb problems could cause your issues, as well as low compression on that old engine. Ignition could also be a culprit.

the leaking tank valve is a normal issue with those older engines also.

ILENGINE said:

Dirty carb combined with low compression. The truth is it could be several things one at a time or all at once. Carb problems could cause your issues, as well as low compression on that old engine. Ignition could also be a culprit.

the leaking tank valve is a normal issue with those older engines also.

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If it were you ILENGINE. would you try and re ring that old cast iron engine? Not even sure I could even get the parts to do it.May open up a hornets nest.It doesnt smoke but guess I need to get someone more experienced than myself to run compression test.It does turn over easier than it should. Carb kit is available, gonna try that first, Ive got pretty good at that.I could do the pan of hot water/ float bubbling test while I had it apart.Do you happen to know, without me tearing it apart, would that old engine be points or electronic ignition?
It is a shame that when we hit upon something as durable, dependable and hard working as the Garden Way/Kohler combo that we move on to cheaper less reliable foreign made, planned obsolescence stuff.I guess my old tiller would cost $5000 if it were American made same way today.

Looks like the standard and .020 oversize piston/ring assembly is available, as well as the gasket set. but the air filter has been discontinued, but may still be available aftermarket. the standard rod is available, but the .010 undersize is discontinued.

Why not check valve clearance first? Not sure why everyone thinks if its "Low on Compression" that it automatically needs to be rebuilt. Check valve clearances, check, clean, regap (.015") or replace points and condenser. Clean carb and fuel system. Good old engine and a hellava lot tougher than ANYTHING new.

Those old cast iron K series are tough. I've got one on my log splitter and they are
not only HEAVY but built like a tank! One time I had to use a B&S float on my K-14
side shaft because I couldn't find a replacement. Just filed it on the pivot that goes
between the towers until it fit. Seems to be working fine. Might keep that in mind
for later when a float is hard to find! :thumbsup: