Kohler ignition repair kit for 22 hp Courage engine

C

Cherrypicker

Member
Saw a couple things on these kits, the one it seems for the 22 hp versus some of the others, includes the flywheel and 2 coils and so it is a bit more expensive, like around $200+/-. Just wondering if a new flywheel is necessary. Part # for the 22 hp is 24-755-307 S while the one for a 26hp was 24 707 01 S and did not include the flywheel.
 
The flywheel update in the kit is due to the magnet location from what I have read. I think Teryl Fixes All has a segment on this procedure.
 
Lets not get the cart before the horse. What is the model and spec of your Courage engine so we can confirm that is actually the kit you need.
 
According to Kohler your engine doesn't use the spark advance system it is a fixed timing CDI system Which uses two 24 584 45-S ignition modules. So neither one of the part numbers that you referenced apply to your engine.
 
ILENGINE said:
According to Kohler your engine doesn't use the spark advance system it is a fixed timing CDI system Which uses two 24 584 45-S ignition modules. So neither one of the part numbers that you referenced apply to your engine.
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I took off the shroud and it appears so. I cleaned up the coils/modules and contacts, spun the engine and I do have spark, evidently I wasn't able to see it earlier. Reinstalled the plugs, and spun it over still wouldn't fire. I began to suspect it was a fuel problem. Sprayed some starting fluid and it took, but wouldn't remain running. This carb has a fuel shut off, I coudn't hear it click when I turned the key, so pulled the carb and removed the shut off. I grounded the shutoff and touched the wire to the positive terminal and it didn't draw the plug in, so I am guessing this might be the issue. Went to look for the part and I can't find where it is listed. I may just pull the plug out of the shut off, and put it back in the float bowl and try to see if it will run. I don't think this will be an issue other than this may have been the way Kohler shut down the engine. I can do the same by pulling the choke. Not sure if there would be issues, but I'd like to get this thing going without buying another whole carb
 
Locate the appropriate manual for your engine and learn how thing work before you go experimenting with things. It's amazing how many heartaches and money you can save by reading what the manufacturer provides.

It takes years of experience to learn what "shortcuts" are safe without creating more problems for yourself.
 
Cherrypicker said:
I took off the shroud and it appears so.
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CLEAN the cooling fins while you are there. All around the block and head/s.
Cherrypicker said:
spun the engine and I do have spark, evidently I wasn't able to see it earlier.
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Best to check spark at night or low light condition. Kill the garage lights for example.
Cherrypicker said:
I began to suspect it was a fuel problem. Sprayed some starting fluid and it took, but wouldn't remain running.
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YES fuel delivery issue. Dirty tank, hose, filter, shut off, tank cap vent, carb, open spout fuel can and so on. Find out where.......
Cherrypicker said:
This carb has a fuel shut off, I coudn't hear it click when I turned the key, so pulled the carb and removed the shut off.
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Sounds like you are talking about the after-fire solenoid. Located on the bottom of the carb bowl. It is not a shut off per say. Just keeps the main jet/emulsion tube from getting fuel on engine turn off. Stops popping in the muffler.
Cherrypicker said:
I grounded the shutoff and touched the wire to the positive terminal and it didn't draw the plug in, so I am guessing this might be the issue.
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If the after-fire solenoid plunger is not retracting with battery voltage then either replace or snip the solenoid plunger off.
 
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