Kohler cv15s not charging properly

relhok

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Hi to all. I'm trying to refurbish this old JD that my mother used. I've got it running and all the belts replaced. My situation now, and for quite a while, is that the battery isn't charging. I am getting 28 vac out of the stator, which I think is normal. The voltage/rectifier only puts out 11-12 volts. I've tried three different regulators, the original, a brand new one I bought, and one off a friends engine with the same 41 403 09 regulator which is working fine. All three put out the same 11-12 volts. I have checked for bad grounds, found none. Everything I've read, says if I'm getting aroung 30 volts ac from the stator and less than about 13-13.5 volts dc from the regulator, the regulator is bad. I can run it with a fully charged battery for quite some time, then the amber battery light comes on. Does anyone have another idea on this? Thanks for any and all advice? Roy
 

ILENGINE

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Two things to check. Are you getting battery voltage on the B+ wire at the regulator. And make sure that the ground wire/strap is present from one of the regulator mounting bolts and one of the blower housing bolts. If the regulator isn't grounded it won't charge the battery. If both those things check out try running a wire from the B+ terminal of the regulator directly to the B+ terminal of the battery. Could be a bad wire that won't carry current to allow charging.
 

relhok

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Thanks for the reply. I've checked that the regulator is grounded and the ground wire is attached and properly grounded, 0 ohms to ground. I am getting battery voltage to the regulator 'B' terminal. I'll run the extra wire from regulator 'B' to battery + and post results.
 

relhok

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I ran a jumper wire from regulator 'B' terminal to the battery +. Used a Fluke digital multimeter to check the voltage. Before cranking, I had 12.01 volts on the battery. With the engine running, the voltage dropped to 11.85 volts. This was the result with or without the jumper from regulator to battery. Turning the engine off, the battery voltage came back to 12.00 volts.
 

ILENGINE

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Back of my mind I am thinking loose flywheel magnets, but I don't think you would get 28 AC from the stator with the magnets loose. Could be weird battery issue, but that is about as strange as 28 AC with loose flywheel magnets.
 

relhok

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Yep, don't think I'd have 28 vac with loose magnets, may pull the flywheel just in case. First, I'll try another battery. Thanks for the idea.
 

relhok

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Ok. Just tried another battery. It had 13.11 volts with the engine off. With the engine running, it dropped to 12.74 volts. Different numbers but same result.
 

slomo

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I have checked for bad grounds, found none.
How was this check done specifically? Visual? Hand tug on the cable?

Might need to do a load test, voltage drop check see. Circuits need to be loaded to verify proper functioning.

You have 28VAC from the charging coil. Tried 3 regulators and tested grounds. To me, from what you wrote, the positive side is working. Negative side is suspect.

This video is the theory behind voltage drops. Some of the video I don't agree with. Still need to do with with a LOAD applied.

 

relhok

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Hi slomo and thanks for your interest and ideas. I use a Fluke(which the name doesn't reflect on the meter's performance), digital multimeter for all measurements. If it reads 0 ohms, there's no resistance. For both you and ILENGINE, I just pulled the flywheel and checked the magnets. No loose ones. Cleaned them up a bit, also blew debris from around the stator. All looked good. Put all the pieces together again. Checked stator output again, now I get 40 vac instead of 28 volts earlier. Put the regulator back on, put meter across battery, got 13 volts with engine dead. Started engine and voltage dropped to 12.7 from battery + to - and also from regulator ''B' to ground. Slomo, I'm not familiar with positive side vs negative side or how to isolate one from the other. I'll watch the video and see if that helps. Thanks again.
 

hlw49

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If you have 40 volts AC and 12.7 volts DC then that would indicate a bad regulator. They do make a tester to test the regulator but most people don't have one like I do where I work. Like ILENGINE said make sure that the ground wire/strap is present from one of the regulator mounting bolts and one of the blower housing bolts.
How was this check done specifically? Visual? Hand tug on the cable?

Might need to do a load test, voltage drop check see. Circuits need to be loaded to verify proper functioning.

You have 28VAC from the charging coil. Tried 3 regulators and tested grounds. To me, from what you wrote, the positive side is working. Negative side is suspect.

This video is the theory behind voltage drops. Some of the video I don't agree with. Still need to do with with a LOAD applied.

How was this check done specifically? Visual? Hand tug on the cable?

Might need to do a load test, voltage drop check see. Circuits need to be loaded to verify proper functioning.

You have 28VAC from the charging coil. Tried 3 regulators and tested grounds. To me, from what you wrote, the positive side is working. Negative side is suspect.

This video is the theory behind voltage drops. Some of the video I don't agree with. Still need to do with with a LOAD applied.
How was this check done specifically? Visual? Hand tug on the cable?

Might need to do a load test, voltage drop check see. Circuits need to be loaded to verify proper functioning.

You have 28VAC from the charging coil. Tried 3 regulators and tested grounds. To me, from what you wrote, the positive side is working. Negative side is suspect.

This video is the theory behind voltage drops. Some of the video I don't agree with. Still need to do with with a LOAD applied.

 
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