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I have a Kohler Courage SV715s engine built in 2007. I have been having trouble for the last couple of years getting it started. If it will crank it starts easily but I cannot it is very hard to get it to turn over. I have read about the automatic compression release being a problem. I have adjusted the valves because everyone says that is the first thing to check. I have cleaned battery connections. I have replaced the battery. If I remove the spark plugs the engine spins easily with the starter. I have looked at the service manual and it says that this engine has ACR but I can't find anything about it. Some engines have a spring and weight but I don't see that setup on this engine. Is the ACR just a lobe on the cam or how does it work? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...ler sv715s engine&aqs=chrome..69i57.39051j0j8

see page 19 regarding ACR

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...ase, how it works&aqs=chrome..69i57.36172j0j8
watch youtube



have you checked these websites for information?

mechanic mark said:

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...ler sv715s engine&aqs=chrome..69i57.39051j0j8

see page 19 regarding ACR



have you checked these websites for information?

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I don't know what you are trying to show me. The link just pulls up a page with a bunch of links. As far as page 19 of the service manual this is what it says:
"These engines are equipped with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. It is difficult to obtain an accurate compression reading because of ACR mechanism. As an alternative, use cylinder leakdown test described below."
That only tells me that it is equipped with an ACR which I stated in my original post. As far as checking websites, I have been searching for days and looking at everything that comes up. I haven't found anything that shows how the ACR works. That is why I asked the question I did. No one is answering about how the ACR works so maybe no one here knows how it works.

The one I repaired for my BIL broke and fell down in the oil sump area. It had high compression and would not turn past TDC. The ACR is attached to the cam gear and holds the valve open until the engine starts and it slings away from the cam and the valve works normal. When engine stops a spring pulls the ACR back in position to hold the valve open on the next start. I think I still have the old cam I will try to take picture. As shown in the picture ACR broke where the flat section ends.
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NorthBama said:

The one I repaired for my BIL broke and fell down in the oil sump area. It had high compression and would not turn past TDC. The ACR is attached to the cam gear and holds the valve open until the engine starts and it slings away from the cam and the valve works normal. When engine stops a spring pulls the ACR back in position to hold the valve open on the next start. I think I still have the old cam I will try to take picture. As shown in the picture ACR broke where the flat section ends.
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NorthBama, thank you for your reply but as I stated in my original post, I know some models have the spring and weight that you showed in your post but when looking at the service manual and the parts list for my model that part is not there. If that part doesn't exist for my model then that must not be how the ACR works on mine. That is why I was asking if anyone knew how the ACR worked on my model. I appreciate the information.

Sorry for not reading your post more closely. The engine I am referencing is a single courage engine. your engine is a twin courage. The ACR on your engine may be ground into the cam lobe I not sure.

NorthBama said:

Sorry for not reading your post more closely. The engine I am referencing is a single courage engine. your engine is a twin courage. The ACR on your engine may be ground into the cam lobe I not sure.

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That is what I am thinking. I was hoping someone here would know for sure. I have read on another forum that the ACR was a cam lobe on some of the Courage engines. Thank you for your help.

You could do some exploratory surgery and post results with pictures so we could know for sure.:thumbsup:

NorthBama said:

You could do some exploratory surgery and post results with pictures so we could know for sure.:thumbsup:

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I have never torn apart an engine like this so it is out of my comfort zone. That is why I am trying to find out how the ACR works on this engine. If I need to break it down to fix the problem I will, after all it won't run now but I don't want to do that if I don't need to. The replacement cam for this engine is made of steel, not plastic so I am wondering what the chances are that a lobe has broken or worn enough to need to replace it. Maybe the ACR is not the problem. I just thought that might be the problem because I have seen so many complaints about that problem on all of the forums.

I have seen bad starters drag under a load because of worn bearings. I am not saying go buy a new starter but its something to check.

NorthBama said:

I have seen bad starters drag under a load because of worn bearings. I am not saying go buy a new starter but its something to check.

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Ordered one last night. I will let you know if that works.

Take the rocker covers off, pull the plugs and turn the engine over slowly by hand.
Watch the valves you should see them open and close.
On each cylinder one should open then close then open a very small amount .
That is the ACR.
Be it a mechanical one or a cam ground one if it is working it will reopen a valve.
Some times you have to put your finger on the end to feel the movement.
We can help you but a small engine apprenticeship takes 3 years so you will have to move well outside of you comfort zone.
Courages generally have mechanical & adjustable valve lashes and unless you have been running without oil the cams usually are OK the singes suffer from broken ACR's, about 1 on 1,0000 .
99.999999999999999999999999999999999999999 % of the hard cranking problems that came in are nothing more than excessive valve lash because they have never been adjusted from new.
So you can go out and buy a new battery, if that makes you feel comfortable
You can go out & buy a new starter solenoid if that makes you feel comfortable
You can go out & buy a new starter if that makes you feel comfortable
But if the valve lash is too big it still won't start because the excessive clearence defeates the decompression.
At lease a dozen come in every year having pissed anything up to $ 500 against the wall cause they were too scared to take the rocker covers off & adjust the valve lash.

Then and only then do you go tearing into the engine.
If it spins the engine really quickly without the plugs in then the starter is USUALLY OK
IF you have been trolling through the archives on this site you will have see people being directed to K & T Mowers we page with a lot the factory service manuals as PDF's on it.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/
Go down the the courage twin and download it then read it.

Thanks bertsmobile1 for the info. I have already adjusted the valve lash and it made no difference at all. Tomorrow I will watch the valves and see if it opens a second time like you said. The starter will spin the engine with the plugs out but it doesn't spin it really fast like I think it should, that is why I ordered a starter.

I replaced the starter and that fixed the problem. Cranks and starts great now.

thanks for the update glad you got it fixed