Kohler comand 27 hp rough idle and white smoke

CHIP

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I have a 27 hp koler engine that idles rough and white smokes. I thought there might have been trash in the carb. I removed the carb and disasembled it, soaked it overnight in "CARB CHEM", DRYED IT OFF WITH AIR HOSE AND BLEW B12 chem tool through all jets and put in a carb kit.The seat fit good and the float was level with the bowl and reasembeled and reinstalled back on the engine. Changed plugs, oil, and air filter and this didn't solve the problem. Checked for blown gascuts on intake manifold,also did a compression check,7lbs difference between cylenders, checked spark,good n blue enough to jolt the S__T out of my arm LOL. Engine still has a rough idle,hesitation when increasing the throttle and white smoke. MOD # CV 740S SPEC # CV 740-0019 Any sugestions on what might be my problem.
 

bertsmobile1

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White smoke is oil burning, nothing to do with the carb.
So you are looking at a blown head gasket, ring problems or a crack in the head.
 

Jack17

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"White smoke" other then when they elect a new Pope of Rome listen to what Bert said. Rough idle...too much resistance in the cylinders. Do not rev up that engine before you find and fix the problem because you can damage it real bad!
 

Jack17

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Re-reading you post and looking at your engine specs noticed that you've got an ACR system on it. How exactly (7 delta psi) did you obtain a compression reading?

Copied from SM:
21
24 690 07 Rev. B KohlerEngines.com
Troubleshooting
COMPRESSION TEST
For Command Twins:
A compression test is best performed on a warm engine. Clean any dirt or debris away from base of spark plug(s)
before removing them. Be sure choke is off, and throttle is wide open during test. Compression should be at least 160
psi and should not vary more than 15% between cylinders.

All other models:
These engines are equipped with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. It is dif
fi
cult to obtain an
accurate compression reading because of ACR mechanism. As an alternative, use cylinder leakdown test described
below.
CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TEST
A cylinder leakdown test can be a valuable alternative to a compression test. By pressurizing combustion chamber
from an external air source you can determine if valves or rings are leaking, and how badly.
Cylinder leakdown tester is a relatively simple, inexpensive leakdown tester for small engines. This tester includes a
quick-connect for attaching adapter hose and a holding tool.
1. Run engine for 3-5 minutes to warm it up.
2. Remove spark plug(s) and air
fi
lter from engine.
3. Rotate crankshaft until piston (of cylinder being tested) is at top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Hold
engine in this position while testing. Holding tool supplied with tester can be used if PTO end of crankshaft is
accessible. Lock holding tool onto crankshaft. Install a 3/8 in. breaker bar into hole/slot of holding tool, so it is
perpendicular to both holding tool and crankshaft PTO.
If
fl
ywheel end is more accessible, use a breaker bar and socket on
fl
ywheel nut/screw to hold it in position. An
assistant may be needed to hold breaker bar during testing. If engine is mounted in a piece of equipment, it may
be possible to hold it by clamping or wedging a driven component. Just be certain that engine cannot rotate off of
TDC in either direction.
4. Install adapter into spark plug hole, but do not attach it to tester at this time.
5. Turn regulator knob completely counterclockwise.
6. Connect an air source of at least 50 psi to tester.
7. Turn regulator knob clockwise (increase direction) until gauge needle is in yellow set area at low end of scale.
8. Connect tester quick-connect to adapter hose. While
fi
rmly holding engine at TDC, gradually open tester valve.
Note gauge reading and listen for escaping air at combustion air intake, exhaust outlet, and crankcase breather.
Condition Conclusion
Air escaping from crankcase breather. Ring or cylinder worn.
Air escaping from exhaust system. Defective exhaust valve/improper seating.
Air escaping from intake. Defective intake valve/improper seating.
Gauge reading in low (green) zone. Piston rings and cylinder in good condition.
Gauge reading in moderate (yellow) zone. Engine is still usable, but there is some wear present.

Customer should start planning for overhaul or
replacement.
Gauge reading in high (red) zone. Rings and/or cylinder have considerable wear. Engine
should be reconditioned or replaced
 
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