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kohler ch25 (AND OTHERS) BREATHER REED

#1

T

tmar04

this is a general kohler question. does anyone know where the breather reed valve is located, and how to service/replace on kohler ch25s engine? I suspect it is located under the metal shroud/baffle plate located near the carb. how exactly do u access this item? what all has to be removed? tks to all who respond. I need some help.


#2

Fish

Fish

Why????

What is the trouble??


#3

T

tmar04

​
Fish said:
Why????

What is the trouble??
Click to expand...
Using oil. Fouling one plug. Blowing oil up dipstick tube. I just replaced head gasket on ' bad' side. Didn't change anything. Old head gasket looked ok, but since already off, put new one on. I suspect breather reef defective. I just want someone to point me to it. Tks


#4

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

its where you think it is, under the cover between the cylinders in the valley.


#5

Fish

Fish

tmar04 said:
this is a general kohler question. does anyone know where the breather reed valve is located, and how to service/replace on kohler ch25s engine? I suspect it is located under the metal shroud/baffle plate located near the carb. how exactly do u access this item? what all has to be removed? tks to all who respond. I need some help.
Click to expand...

Sorry, just am a skeptic.....Why would this "breather problem" only be on one side????????

You need to step back and save some money.....


#6

Fish

Fish

Might have got the wrong side.......


#7

T

tmar04

Stranger things have happened. Just thought it would be worth a shot compared to engine rebuild or replacement.surely it cannot cost too much for a small item like that. We'll see.


#8

Fish

Fish

Naw, just step back and start from the beginning!!!!


#9

MBDiagMan

MBDiagMan

I agree that with the problem only being in one cylinder, the breather might not be the problem, but I learned a LONG time ago to thoroughly check the simple things before doing more drastic surgery. Terry is looking at tearing the engine apart. It is most certainly worth checking the breather first. It would be a shame to do some major disassembly, only to find a gunked up breather system was the cause of the problem all along.

Larry


#10

T

tmar04

MBDiagMan said:
I agree that with the problem only being in one cylinder, the breather might not be the problem, but I learned a LONG time ago to thoroughly check the simple things before doing more drastic surgery. Terry is looking at tearing the engine apart. It is most certainly worth checking the breather first. It would be a shame to do some major disassembly, only to find a gunked up breather system was the cause of the problem all along.

Larry
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Thank you, sir. By the way, address is Terry Martin, 300 Donald lane , Eastman , Ga 31023 for package.


#11

C

cashman

If someone has the tools available, do a leakdown test on it before you do anything. That will get you pointed in the right direction real fast.


#12

MBDiagMan

MBDiagMan

I just remembered something from the past. It probably won't apply to your engine, but maybe it will make you think of something similar.

I was working on an old Tecumseh OHV engine that was smoking. The problem turned out to be a breather in the top of the rocker cover that was in backwards allowing the oil to came up the pushrod tube to blow out the breather pipe. If the engine was doing this when you purchased it, make sure nothing is put on backwards.

Larry


#13

T

tmar04

MBDiagMan said:
I just remembered something from the past. It probably won't apply to your engine, but maybe it will make you think of something similar.

I was working on an old Tecumseh OHV engine that was smoking. The problem turned out to be a breather in the top of the rocker cover that was in backwards allowing the oil to came up the pushrod tube to blow out the breather pipe. If the engine was doing this when you purchased it, make sure nothing is put on backwards.

Larry
Click to expand...

Thanks, Larry . It was s moking and using oil. Seller ( neighbor) told me prob would need rebuilding. Only thing I can think of is reed valve , other than rings, When I remove air cleaner base, disconnect hose from breather tube and start and start engine , pressure is obvious . No vacuum . I will check compression today.


#14

MBDiagMan

MBDiagMan

With that further information, I would suggest that you buy or borrow either a cylinder leak down appartus or a spark plug hole/air hose adapter. Pressurize the bad cylinder after firmly blocking crankshaft movement while piston is at top on the compression stroke. Pressurize the cylinder and listen for where the air is escaping. If you hear it through the exhast pipe, an exhaust valve is leaking. Through the carburetor and an intake valve is leaking. Through the oil fill hole and it is leaking past the rings indicating that you have cylinder/ring/piston issues.

If it DOES turn out to be damage in only one cylinder, there is absolutely nothing wrong with repairing that one cylinder only. If the engine is just generally worn out, then you will, of course want to overhaul both cylinders.

These engines are new enough, that I expect pistons/rings and any other engine parts to be readily available. When I've rebuilt small engines in the past, it always seems to be ones that are old with difficult parts availability.

Hope this helps,
Larry


#15

T

tmar04

MBDiagMan said:
With that further information, I would suggest that you buy or borrow either a cylinder leak down appartus or a spark plug hole/air hose adapter. Pressurize the bad cylinder after firmly blocking crankshaft movement while piston is at top on the compression stroke. Pressurize the cylinder and listen for where the air is escaping. If you hear it through the exhast pipe, an exhaust valve is leaking. Through the carburetor and an intake valve is leaking. Through the oil fill hole and it is leaking past the rings indicating that you have cylinder/ring/piston issues.

If it DOES turn out to be damage in only one cylinder, there is absolutely nothing wrong with repairing that one cylinder only. If the engine is just generally worn out, then you will, of course want to overhaul both cylinders.

These engines are new enough, that I expect pistons/rings and any other engine parts to be readily available. When I've rebuilt small engines in the past, it always seems to be ones that are old with difficult parts availability.

Hope this helps,
Larry
Click to expand...

Larry, Checked compression after mowing 1 hour. Bad cyl 100 lb, good cyl 130. Good plug burning clean, bad one has oily deposits . Think I will plan on rings and valve lapping this winter . Thanks for your help (
, as well as others). Great forum! Terry


#16

Fish

Fish

tmar04 said:
Larry, Checked compression after mowing 1 hour. Bad cyl 100 lb, good cyl 130. Good plug burning clean, bad one has oily deposits . Think I will plan on rings and valve lapping this winter . Thanks for your help (
, as well as others). Great forum! Terry
Click to expand...

So no reed valve?????


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