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This engine would not turn over when hot. It acted like the battery was low. I replaced solenoid and battery and still had same problem. I noticed the battery cables were small and replaced them with (2) 2 foot #4 cables. The problem seems to be gone. Has anyone else had this problem?

jerry Grange said:

This engine would not turn over when hot. It acted like the battery was low. I replaced solenoid and battery and still had same problem. I noticed the battery cables were small and replaced them with (2) 2 foot #4 cables. The problem seems to be gone. Has anyone else had this problem?

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Next time try testing solenoid and battery before replacing. Sounds like possible voltage drop, which could have been tested with a multimeter. I have seen those real small cables on riding mowers and have wondered why they were so undersized gage wise.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Next time try testing solenoid and battery before replacing. Sounds like possible voltage drop, which could have been tested with a multimeter. I have seen those real small cables on riding mowers and have wondered why they were so undersized gage wise.

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The answer is they work, When new, but as corrosion takes place in the cables they loose carrying capacity and can cause issue down the road. Most of the time there is another cause of the start issues unrelated to battery cable undersize. And most use 6 gauge wire which will have a higher carrying capacity than what most systems will demand for starting and in some cases more capacity than what the battery can produce.

I believe 6 gauge cable is typical for 2 foot riding mower battery connections. A 4 gauge cable is obviously better but unnecessary.

Because they are exposed to the weather ZTR battery cables tend to corrode inside the plastic sheath because water wicks down the cable
More than once I have pulled one hard at one end to find it came apart in my hands because it only had a couple of strands that went all the way to each end
Get yourself a tube / can of "liquid electrical tape " and on a hot dry afternoon seal both ends of the cable

Just be glad they haven't started using CCA. Copper clad aluminum.

ILENGINE said:

Just be glad they haven't started using CCA. Copper clad aluminum.

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We get both CCA & CCS , yes steel down here
CCA isa co-extrusion
CCS is plain plating
So if you are ever bored run a magnet over the battery cables an see how many stick .

ILENGINE said:

The answer is they work, When new, but as corrosion takes place in the cables they loose carrying capacity and can cause issue down the road. Most of the time there is another cause of the start issues unrelated to battery cable undersize. And most use 6 gauge wire which will have a higher carrying capacity than what most systems will demand for starting and in some cases more capacity than what the battery can produce.

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Thanks. I did measure the voltage drop after I had replaced the solenoid, because I thought this was the problem. I then replaced the battery. I checked the charging circuit and found it ok. The last item was the starter. I did not replace it. On my Toro, I found a plastic wing nut on the negative terminal, which I replaced. According to my calipers, my original wiring was smaller than #6. So far, the #4 cables have worked. Thanks again.