Kohler 26 hp Command charging problems

[ILENGINE]

Would be normal for the 20 amp charging system. May need to what looks like a bad regulator, but with new regulator we may need to do an amp output test to find out how many amps the system is putting out, and to make sure the system is not overloading the regulator causing it to burn up. The claw type amp testers would work best for this test.

The short that was create when the choke cable welded inself to the regulator could have overheated the wires someplace in the wiring harness and now a couple of wires are fused together causing a short, or causing an excessive amp draw.

 

[goosemasterkl]

I have one of those circle clamp amp meters but don't really know how to use it. Where would I need to check and what type setting on the amp meter? Thanks

 

[Rivets]

Thank you IL for chiming in, it's been along day. I don't want to confuse the subject but if the measurements are the same as post #1 this is what I think. AC voltage is fine, which means stator is go. DC output voltage is too low, should be a minimum of 13.4 VDC. that means the regulator is bad. First thing I would do is bolt a new ground wire to the regulator and retest DCV, to see if it increases. You don't have to have the regulator mounted, just bolt a wire throughout the mounting hole. If the is no change I say look intoa new regulator.

Now, why did the second one blow? I agree with IL, you need to look for a short in the B+ wire leaving the regulator going back to the battery. Most times this wire goes either directly back to the battery or is connected to the battery terminal on the solenoid. You may have to disassemble the wiring harness to physically chck the wire. Don't rely on checking the wiring by testing resistance from the terminal end to ground. You could easily get a false reading, as the wiring could be shorted in the harness through another component. At this time I would not install a new regulator in the system, until I was positive that I had a good clean ground and the B+ wire was not shorted.

One test I have used to test amperage is to hook my multimeter inline between B+ output terminal and the battery, test on DC amperage 10AMP fused. You most be careful doing this, as if you have an amperage spike, you could burn out your meter very, very fast, less than 10 seconds.

 

[goosemasterkl]

Hey Thanks guy's; this will give me somewhere to start at to try and find my problem. I really appreciate what you guy's have done. I'll check back with you and let you know how it goes. Again Thanks

 

[goosemasterkl]

Rivets; on doing the amperage test with your multimeter ; where and what color test leads do you hook where? Thanks

 

[ILENGINE]

Great you have a clamp type amp meter. Depending on model you would set it on DC amps, I would set it if you can for at least 25 amp range. Can connect either around the + battery cable, or the wire coming off the + terminal of the regulator. a + reading means charging, a - reading will give you discharge.

On some mowers they ran the battery wire going to the regulator through the key switch, this is normally used when the mower has a dash mounted charge gauge. Every body was thinking that if you didn't disconnect power to the regulator it would discharge the battery, which was false.

 

[Rivets]

Meter set on DC AMPS highest range you have. Red lead goes to the DC output terminal, Black lead goes to the positive post on the battery. This is with the regulator unplugged. Test should be taken between 3400-3600 RPM's.

 

[Rivets]

I like IL's method better, if you have a clamp on meter. You can burn a meter real fast using my method and something slips.

 

[goosemasterkl]

Rivets, ILENGINE; After doing some probing on the mower I recalled something that I'd like your input on. I can't remember if this started after the choke cable shorting across the rectifier/regulator but the RCM switch that you use to back-up with the PTO engaged now the mower can back-up without killing the engine while your mowing. I got to wiggling around at the ignition switch and you can just barely touch it and the mower starts running all rough and wants to die. Could this be a potential problem why the battery won't charge and blowing the rectifiers. Also; I was looking by the rectifier and I can't find a ground wire or strap nowhere. Thanks

 

[Rivets]

I don't know if IL will agree with me but from your last post, I think IL was going in the right direction in post #11. You definitely have a short somewhere. At this time you are going on hide and seek excursion. There is at least 1 short (maybe more) hiding and you are going to be the searcher. This may mean tearing apart wiring harnesses, testing every component, and then starting over because you missed something. You are going to have to follow the number one rule of electrical troubleshooting. ASSUME NOTHING AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING. A good aid would be to get a good clean wiring diagram of the unit. I don't envy you at this point, you may find it in the first hour or it may take ten hours. Don't over look all safety switches and the key switch. The key switch and the RCM sound like they are bad for sure. A good helper would also be invaluable. IL may have some other suggestions, which are better than mine. Keep us posted.