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Kohler 14hp K321S help

#1

C

Chesterspal

At my wits end with this engine. Three weeks and still the same issues. Cannot keep it running w/o misfires, backfires, loss of power, stalling out.

I’m usually pretty good (with my machines) but this one has me stumped.

What I’ve replaced:

Carb
Points
Spark plug
Ignition wire (w/solid copper core)
Have new coil and will do that next

Played with the points. Book says .020”. Set anywhere from .022 to .015 with little difference. Seems a tad better with the smaller gaps.

I have a timing light but hard to see through the hole. Might remove cowling if you feel it will help me get this right.

Timing light is erratic when running. Coincides with the mis/back fires as you’d expect.

I think this is more to do with ignition, not fuel.

Suggestions?

Can post videos if this site will let me (?)

Thanks


#2

V

VegetiveSteam

Make sure the only wire attached to the + side of the ignition coil is a power wire coming from the key switch. Points and condenser attach to the - side of the coil. Did you also replace the condenser?


#3

C

Chesterspal

VegetiveSteam said:
Make sure the only wire attached to the + side of the ignition coil is a power wire coming from the key switch. Points and condenser attach to the - side of the coil. Did you also replace the condenser?
Click to expand...
Yes, replaced the condenser, too.

New coil… no difference 🫤

By the way I forgot to mention… I got a constant blackened plug.

I cannot get this thing to run lean no matter what I do.

The original ignition wire measure 10,000 ohms so I thought by using a solid copper core wire that was going to solve my problem and get me a good strong burn but it absolutely no difference.


#4

C

Chesterspal

1693157285431.jpeg
This is an H10C, what manual calls for.

Yes, I clean after each attempt with soft wire brush.


#5

C

Chesterspal

1693157745931.jpeg

Tell me how to set up this carb correctly. Am I right, the screw angled to the right is idle. Out enriched, tighten leans?

Reverse with the center main jet adjust, correct?

Can I start by turning main way out so has no affect to get idle set up first?

If not, what is method?

BTW: will these aftermarket Amazon carbs even work correctly on these engines?


#6

V

VegetiveSteam

And the connections on the coil?


#7

C

Chesterspal

VegetiveSteam said:
And the connections on the coil?
Click to expand...
One to ignition switch another appears goes to starter motor solenoid, factory wiring.

You want me to cut that lead ?


#8

V

VegetiveSteam

Chesterspal said:
View attachment 66462
Click to expand...
Yes the angled one on the side is the idle. The one in the top if the high spe

1693158633601.png


#9

V

VegetiveSteam

Chesterspal said:
One to ignition switch another appears goes to starter motor solenoid, factory wiring.

You want me to cut that lead ?
Click to expand...
No. Just wanted to be sure the wire to the points and the wire to the condenser were on the negative (-) side of the ignition coil and not the positive (+) side. It's something commonly seen where someone connects the points to the positive (+) side of the ignition coil and the engines will typically run but not run very well.


#10

C

Chesterspal

VegetiveSteam said:
Yes the angled one on the side is the idle. The one in the top if the high spe

View attachment 66464
Click to expand...
And the correct way to set the carb up on this engine??

What about setting points vs tach reading?


#11

V

VegetiveSteam

Turn both mixture adjustment screws in gently until they bottom out. Then back the idle screw out 2-1/2 turns and the high speed out 3-1/2 turns. Then fine tune from there as needed.


#12

C

Chesterspal

I think I have it, now.

More to do with points and plug gap than initial carb settings.

For this engine…

Points: .022

Plug: .023

Got me running strong. Fine tune as needed.

Then, I’ll install a virgin Autolite 216 plug.


#13

R

rgrottk

Normally this problem is fuel related but run from anyone who tells you then can tell the difference by listening to the engine you HAVE to determine first if it is fuel or ignition try to eliminate spark first perhaps purchase a in line good spark tester and see if the spark changes when you have the issue, also I assume you have a fuel pump in the fuel circuit, these pumps are super pushers POOR pullers make sure you have good flow and no air leakage all the way to the pump from the tank (make sure pump connection and any in tank filter is clear) and change all the lines between. Hope this helps on mine once I had this solved I put in the line two check valves so that the lines stay primed and after the winter I blow in the tank to initially prime the line and then NO issues all summer. There are check valves in the pump but with age they leak back. Hope this helps.


#14

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

rgrottk said:
Normally this problem is fuel related but run from anyone who tells you then can tell the difference by listening to the engine you HAVE to determine first if it is fuel or ignition try to eliminate spark first perhaps purchase a in line good spark tester and see if the spark changes when you have the issue, also I assume you have a fuel pump in the fuel circuit, these pumps are super pushers POOR pullers make sure you have good flow and no air leakage all the way to the pump from the tank (make sure pump connection and any in tank filter is clear) and change all the lines between. Hope this helps on mine once I had this solved I put in the line two check valves so that the lines stay primed and after the winter I blow in the tank to initially prime the line and then NO issues all summer. There are check valves in the pump but with age they leak back. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Bottom line is this:
Make sure you have strong consistent spark at all speeds with inline spark tester.
Make sure you have good, strong fuel flow to carburetor.
Make sure you have fresh fuel with not debris or water in it.


#15

M

moparjoe

Chesterspal said:
At my wits end with this engine. Three weeks and still the same issues. Cannot keep it running w/o misfires, backfires, loss of power, stalling out.

I’m usually pretty good (with my machines) but this one has me stumped.

What I’ve replaced:

Carb
Points
Spark plug
Ignition wire (w/solid copper core)
Have new coil and will do that next

Played with the points. Book says .020”. Set anywhere from .022 to .015 with little difference. Seems a tad better with the smaller gaps.

I have a timing light but hard to see through the hole. Might remove cowling if you feel it will help me get this right.

Timing light is erratic when running. Coincides with the mis/back fires as you’d expect.

I think this is more to do with ignition, not fuel.

Suggestions?

Can post videos if this site will let me (?)

Thanks
Click to expand...
Check the flywheel key.


#16

G

g-man57

Just a thought - check your valve settings. There's probably a YouTube video.


#17

T

Tornadoman

Chesterspal said:
At my wits end with this engine. Three weeks and still the same issues. Cannot keep it running w/o misfires, backfires, loss of power, stalling out.

I’m usually pretty good (with my machines) but this one has me stumped.

What I’ve replaced:

Carb
Points
Spark plug
Ignition wire (w/solid copper core)
Have new coil and will do that next

Played with the points. Book says .020”. Set anywhere from .022 to .015 with little difference. Seems a tad better with the smaller gaps.

I have a timing light but hard to see through the hole. Might remove cowling if you feel it will help me get this right.

Timing light is erratic when running. Coincides with the mis/back fires as you’d expect.

I think this is more to do with ignition, not fuel.

Suggestions?

Can post videos if this site will let me (?)

Thanks
Click to expand...
Years ago I had a similar problem with a Briggs and after much head scratching and consternation I discovered the flywheel key had sheared, causing the timing to be thrown way off.


#18

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

An inline detection of the coil / plug will most likely show a missfire. Now to find the cause. is it the plug - try another new one. inline at output of coil to high tension lead - replace wire if not seen coming out of coil. If seen missing coming out of coil _ dada - replace coil.


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