Export thread

Kholer Courage 22 - new carb - idle perfect - off idle hunting

#1

G

GroundLoop

Just replaced the carb on my Yardman (Cub Cadet) RZT-50. Original carb was running VERY rich and engine was hard to start. Repaired it once and did not feel like fixing it again. Installed new carb, gaskets on both sides of carb, and fuel filter. Gas is new. Idle is perfect but off idle to full speed the engine is hunting most of the time. Engine speed goes up and down every few seconds. Can see the linkage going up and down. Does it with the blades engaged or not.

Sounds to me like it is running lean. Looked at the manual for the motor and it says there is no way to adjust the fuel mixture. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong.

Thanks for any help.


#2

M

mechanic mark

www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com

Free Kohler Service Manual Downloads - OPEengines.com

Listed below are Kohler engine service repair manual in Adobe PDF format that you can download for free. Below we have provided a link to these manuals which can also be download. Click on your engine listed below to download. These service manuals provide general information, adjustment...
www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com
Scroll down page for your engine manual, let us know how it goes, Thanks, Mark
www.ccpartsnmore.com

Cub Cadet Service Manuals

Manuals and Diagrams for Cub Cadet Mowers and Tractors. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet. Buy Parts for Less.
www.ccpartsnmore.com www.ccpartsnmore.com
Scroll down page for your RZT50 Cub Cadet Service Manual


#3

StarTech

StarTech

Clone or OEM carburetor? Either that why I have micro bits here for.


#4

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

StarTech said:
Clone or OEM carburetor?
Click to expand...


#5

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Yes, it is running lean on the main jet. As has been asked, OEM or aftermarket? Many AM carbs for kohlers are not jetted properly. While it is hunting try pulling the choke out slowly. If it stops hunting definately running too lean.


#6

G

GroundLoop

It is an aftermarket carb carefully selected from Amazon by reading reviews. Repaired other small engines by replacing carbs from Amazon and had great results.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

Well you just been lucky up to now. Clones are notoriously faulty in one or another. And when they preset a carburetor mixture, Loctite, and break off the adjustment screw doesn't help either.

I had customer that brought an used mower from a competitor shop that old carburetor was needing repaired. I sent the mower back to them for repairs they proceed to do the same thing you did. It made the problem much worst. They threw their hands up and surrendered. So the customer brings the mower to me. I had to resize the jets to resolve the surging problem after I verified the static governor and ilde speed adjustments were set properly. He actually had spend an extra $400 on a $850 mower purchase to straighten out all the problems with that the other did not fix before the sale. What a con job.


#8

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

GroundLoop said:
It is an aftermarket carb carefully selected from Amazon by reading reviews. Repaired other small engines by replacing carbs from Amazon and had great results.
Click to expand...
I have had very good luck with Honda type aftermarket carbs and about 50% good luck with carbs for Briggs engines. I have had 0% luck with aftermarket kohler carbs. EVERY one of them has been jetted wrong. Mowers usually come in because customer replaced OEM with Amazon carb. I can drill out one jetted too lean but not ones running rich. I have wasted many hours on knock off kohler carbs. And do you really believe Amazon reviews?


#9

B

bertsmobile1

Hammermechanicman said:
I have had very good luck with Honda type aftermarket carbs and about 50% good luck with carbs for Briggs engines. I have had 0% luck with aftermarket kohler carbs. EVERY one of them has been jetted wrong. Mowers usually come in because customer replaced OEM with Amazon carb. I can drill out one jetted too lean but not ones running rich. I have wasted many hours on knock off kohler carbs. And do you really believe Amazon reviews?
Click to expand...
Yep.
Every day you get the spam from IT hackers who for a few US $ will give you 100% good feedback on ebay or amazon.
Any retail system that allows the vendor to hide their real identity is purpose built for selling stolen , counterfeit or defective goods .
Allibaba OTOH and AlliExpress and Made in China all requir real names from their vendors so funny enough you only get good parts from them


#10

G

GroundLoop

So does anyone have any recommendations? I still have the old carb. Could I take the jet out of the old carb and put it in the new one? Drill out the jet on the new one?


#11

StarTech

StarTech

Since never got the engine's numbers I personally don't know the carburetor is setup. It might be Nikki, Ruixing, Walbro, or some other brand. Also when rejetting you got to know what are doing which takes experience. It is not something a DIYer should attempt.

Also a clone carburetor don't necessary mean parts from the OEM carburetor will even fit it.


#12

G

GroundLoop

Engine is a SV715 22 HP. Original carb is a Keihin. Numbers stamped on top of the carb are 32 053 11 64B alc. And on the side is BCH

I did find I had one of the governor linkages on the wrong hole. Put it where it was on the original carb and it does run better now. But still not as good as it used to.

Only problem with original carb is it started dumping gas out of the butterfly. Lots of gas. Took it apart once and cleaned up the bowl, put it back together and it ran fine. Did it again a few weeks ago and just ordered a new carb. Had no idea there were different original manufacturers. Just assumed the ones on Amazon were rebuilds of the original carbs. So maybe I would be better just finding out the real issue with the original carb. Is there a part that is causing the sudden gas dumping?


#13

S

slomo

GroundLoop said:
It is an aftermarket carb carefully selected from Amazon by reading reviews.
Click to expand...
Umm, um, don't know how to approach this one.

Okay, take the OEM Kroller carb and boil clean it. If you can't get it clean then buy an OEM Kroller carb for it.


#14

S

slomo

GroundLoop said:
Is there a part that is causing the sudden gas dumping?
Click to expand...
It's called the needle and seat. Works like a toilet.

Dump the fuel tank, reverse blow with compressed air. Get that tank spotlessly clean as in brand new perfect. Probably grass and grit in the tank heading towards the carb.

Install all new fuel lines and filter from tank to carb.

Remove the carb bowl and spray carb cleaner WITH SAFETY GLASSES ON into the fuel inlet tube both ways. Remove the float and hinge pin finally removing the needle. Clean away with your SAFETY GLASSES ON. Why use safety glasses? Don't use them then come back here and comment on your experience. LOL


#15

S

slomo

Clean your block and cooling fins while you are at it. Bet that engine cover has never been off.


#16

S

skiman

GroundLoop said:
It is an aftermarket carb carefully selected from Amazon by reading reviews. Repaired other small engines by replacing carbs from Amazon and had great results.
Click to expand...
those aftermarket kohler walbro style carbs are the problem..the OEM walbro carb has an adjustable idle jet that helps eliminate high speed surging...those aftermarket carbs are fixed idle jet with no adjustment...3 choices...get a rebuild kit for the original carb...buy the right OEM carb with the proper jetting ...or get a set of micro drills and carefully select the next right drill size to step up the main jet to balance the fuel flow..might need to step it up again
..good luck...


#17

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

.buy the right OEM carb with the proper jetting ..

Have you priced an OEM kohler carb?


#18

StarTech

StarTech

Try pricing some of the Kawasaki carburetors if you want sticker shock, Kohler are not that bad compared to some the Kawasaki. I recently repaired one that would cost the customer $600+. [JD price] even thru my distributor it would have cost me $438.20 and it listed for $537.71.


#19

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Couple years ago i had an older JD gator. JD wanted $375 for a new simple one barrell carb. I replaced needle and seat for $55.


#20

S

slomo

You can get a 4 barrel Holley for some of these prices LOL.
1653195475447.png


#21

StarTech

StarTech

Hammermechanicman said:
Couple years ago i had an older JD gator. JD wanted $375 for a new simple one barrell carb. I replaced needle and seat for $55.
Click to expand...
It like the Kawasaki 3010's 15003-2766 here in the shop now. It is 433.34 which is only 9% off list @ Partzilla [it is 390.48 thru Amazon Kawasaki store]. Definitely cleaning and rebuilding it. BTW I found what cause the water in the oil problem, missing screws and cover gasket badly torn. I still got to get the engine out but I got side track with the parking brake problem yesterday. At least I got the CVT clutches off.


#22

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Is it one of those JD with the 30 series Comet drives? Some of those are a real B to get off.


#23

StarTech

StarTech

I just started work on ATVs and UTVs about 6 years ago so I not sure which it is. But this is the drive convertor and it is fairly easy to get off. Has to come off to even replace the belt.
1653222060958.png

Ahhh I looked up 30 series Comet drive and that is a Go Cart type and I have replaced a few of them.


#24

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

JD used some 30 and 40 series in a previous century


#25

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

slomo said:
It's called the needle and seat. Works like a toilet.

Dump the fuel tank, reverse blow with compressed air. Get that tank spotlessly clean as in brand new perfect. Probably grass and grit in the tank heading towards the carb.

Install all new fuel lines and filter from tank to carb.

Remove the carb bowl and spray carb cleaner WITH SAFETY GLASSES ON into the fuel inlet tube both ways. Remove the float and hinge pin finally removing the needle. Clean away with your SAFETY GLASSES ON. Why use safety glasses? Don't use them then come back here and comment on your experience. LOL
Click to expand...

As slomo mentioned the needle and seat should be addressed on the OEM carb since you stated it was leaking fuel out of the butterfly. If you don't have a rebuild kit on hand there's something you can try in the meantime.

On the OEM carb, remove the float needle then take a Q-tip and dip it in Mother's metal polish. Chuck the Q-tip in a drill and polish the inside of the seat until it's shiny clean. I have a couple of vintage motorcycles that I've done this on with good results when the needle stuck causing fuel to leak out of the overflow. Something to try anyway. Good luck.


#26

S

skiman

Hammermechanicman said:
Yes, it is running lean on the main jet. As has been asked, OEM or aftermarket? Many AM carbs for kohlers are not jetted properly. While it is hunting try pulling the choke out slowly. If it stops hunting definately running too lean.
Click to expand...
Thats because all the aftermarket carbs for walbro kohler style carbs have fixed idle jets...the oem had adjustable low speed jet to smooth out the high speed oscillation....thats why i dont buy them but all the briggs ones have thT jet adjustment to take care of the hunting...


#27

S

skiman

GroundLoop said:
Engine is a SV715 22 HP. Original carb is a Keihin. Numbers stamped on top of the carb are 32 053 11 64B alc. And on the side is BCH

I did find I had one of the governor linkages on the wrong hole. Put it where it was on the original carb and it does run better now. But still not as good as it used to.

Only problem with original carb is it started dumping gas out of the butterfly. Lots of gas. Took it apart once and cleaned up the bowl, put it back together and it ran fine. Did it again a few weeks ago and just ordered a new carb. Had no idea there were different original manufacturers. Just assumed the ones on Amazon were rebuilds of the original carbs. So maybe I would be better just finding out the real issue with the original carb. Is there a part that is causing the sudden gas dumping?
Click to expand...
Ok...you said it worked after you cleaned it...no longer dumping gas out the carb...then started again a while later...sounds like maybe debris in the fuel tank or a fuel line and or filter discentgrating causing the needle not closing...id replace the feul line and filter and reclean your carb...


Footer Links 1

Top