You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Kawasaki oil cooler upgrade
#1
D
dnewton3
D
dnewton3
For those of you that have a Kaw air-cooled engine, you might be able to "upgrade" your oil system as I did.
Most of us that have an air-cooled Kaw on our equipment (Scag, JD, ExMark, etc) probably have an "FH" series engine. Available in 19, 21, 23 and 25hp, only the "721" (25hp) model comes stock with an external oil cooler. However, it can be retrofitted to any of the other engines (they are all the same engine/block, just different carbs for different power production).
Here is a link to the Kawpower site page with the parts listing: buykawpower.com
You'll need the o-ring, the "joint" (which I would call a pipe-nipple), and the cooler body itself. Please note there are multiple listings for some of the parts, such as the pipe-joint. I asked the dealer what the difference was, and they could not tell me. But they did offer to take the parts back if the didn't fit, so my risk was low. I used the pipe-joint "59071-7009" and it fit both the engine block and my 3/4"-16 oil filter threads, so I must have used the correct one.
Now - brace yourself for a shock ...
It only costs about $25 for the entire three pieces! I was expecting a lot more, but I got all three needed pieces from my local Scag dealer for under $25.
Very easy to put on:
1) clean around the current filter area
2) remove old filter
3) use channel locks and remove the pipe stub (the filter mount) from the engine block
4) install the o-ring on the cooler body
5) slip the pipe "joint" through the body
6) align the cooler body to the engine and thread in the pipe "joint"
7) use a 1" deep well socket and tighten the pipe firmly (very snug, but not stupid tight, as it it an aluminum block after all)
8) install new filter and refill to spec level
9) start engine; observe for leaks and correct if any
10) grab self-congratulatory carbonated grain-based alcoholic beverage and celebrate
The ONLY caution is that you'll loose a bit of clearance on some applications. I used a Wix 51394 filter and had zero issues, but my "old" filter (a leftover AA filter) would have been too long. Any of the shorter fitlers such as the Wix 51394 works perfectly fine. (If you've been using a filter such as the popular Ford filter such as Wix 51516 it will not clear the new cooler body nor the chassis frame.) The Wix 51394 is the spec'd filter for that Kaw engine series application, so it's "right" and it fits.
Not a bad upgrade for $25, and the piece of mind of a bit less oil stress.
Most of us that have an air-cooled Kaw on our equipment (Scag, JD, ExMark, etc) probably have an "FH" series engine. Available in 19, 21, 23 and 25hp, only the "721" (25hp) model comes stock with an external oil cooler. However, it can be retrofitted to any of the other engines (they are all the same engine/block, just different carbs for different power production).
Here is a link to the Kawpower site page with the parts listing: buykawpower.com
You'll need the o-ring, the "joint" (which I would call a pipe-nipple), and the cooler body itself. Please note there are multiple listings for some of the parts, such as the pipe-joint. I asked the dealer what the difference was, and they could not tell me. But they did offer to take the parts back if the didn't fit, so my risk was low. I used the pipe-joint "59071-7009" and it fit both the engine block and my 3/4"-16 oil filter threads, so I must have used the correct one.
Now - brace yourself for a shock ...
It only costs about $25 for the entire three pieces! I was expecting a lot more, but I got all three needed pieces from my local Scag dealer for under $25.
Very easy to put on:
1) clean around the current filter area
2) remove old filter
3) use channel locks and remove the pipe stub (the filter mount) from the engine block
4) install the o-ring on the cooler body
5) slip the pipe "joint" through the body
6) align the cooler body to the engine and thread in the pipe "joint"
7) use a 1" deep well socket and tighten the pipe firmly (very snug, but not stupid tight, as it it an aluminum block after all)
8) install new filter and refill to spec level
9) start engine; observe for leaks and correct if any
10) grab self-congratulatory carbonated grain-based alcoholic beverage and celebrate
The ONLY caution is that you'll loose a bit of clearance on some applications. I used a Wix 51394 filter and had zero issues, but my "old" filter (a leftover AA filter) would have been too long. Any of the shorter fitlers such as the Wix 51394 works perfectly fine. (If you've been using a filter such as the popular Ford filter such as Wix 51516 it will not clear the new cooler body nor the chassis frame.) The Wix 51394 is the spec'd filter for that Kaw engine series application, so it's "right" and it fits.
Not a bad upgrade for $25, and the piece of mind of a bit less oil stress.
#2
L
lil SIG
L
lil SIG
Looks like good info.For those of you that have a Kaw air-cooled engine, you might be able to "upgrade" your oil system as I did.
Most of us that have an air-cooled Kaw on our equipment (Scag, JD, ExMark, etc) probably have an "FH" series engine. Available in 19, 21, 23 and 25hp, only the "721" (25hp) model comes stock with an external oil cooler. However, it can be retrofitted to any of the other engines (they are all the same engine/block, just different carbs for different power production).
Here is a link to the Kawpower site page with the parts listing: buykawpower.com
You'll need the o-ring, the "joint" (which I would call a pipe-nipple), and the cooler body itself. Please note there are multiple listings for some of the parts, such as the pipe-joint. I asked the dealer what the difference was, and they could not tell me. But they did offer to take the parts back if the didn't fit, so my risk was low. I used the pipe-joint "59071-7009" and it fit both the engine block and my 3/4"-16 oil filter threads, so I must have used the correct one.
Now - brace yourself for a shock ...
It only costs about $25 for the entire three pieces! I was expecting a lot more, but I got all three needed pieces from my local Scag dealer for under $25.
Very easy to put on:
1) clean around the current filter area
2) remove old filter
3) use channel locks and remove the pipe stub (the filter mount) from the engine block
4) install the o-ring on the cooler body
5) slip the pipe "joint" through the body
6) align the cooler body to the engine and thread in the pipe "joint"
7) use a 1" deep well socket and tighten the pipe firmly (very snug, but not stupid tight, as it it an aluminum block after all)
8) install new filter and refill to spec level
9) start engine; observe for leaks and correct if any
10) grab self-congratulatory carbonated grain-based alcoholic beverage and celebrate
The ONLY caution is that you'll loose a bit of clearance on some applications. I used a Wix 51394 filter and had zero issues, but my "old" filter (a leftover AA filter) would have been too long. Any of the shorter fitlers such as the Wix 51394 works perfectly fine. (If you've been using a filter such as the popular Ford filter such as Wix 51516 it will not clear the new cooler body nor the chassis frame.) The Wix 51394 is the spec'd filter for that Kaw engine series application, so it's "right" and it fits.
Not a bad upgrade for $25, and the piece of mind of a bit less oil stress.
#3
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Nice job and good information.
Now to do the wet towel bit
Does you mower need an oil cooler ?
very few do
Oil needs to be between 80C and 120C to work as the factory that made the engine expected it to.
Oil coolers for motorcycles were all the rage in my youth and like all the other teenage know it alls I fitted several of them to my motorcycles on the belief that if the race bikes use them then my street bikes would too.
The end result ( in hindsight ) was excessive cam & follower wear although I did not know that till I was in my mid 20's and had actually learned about oils.
Now small engine users do fit them, usually only to commercial engines that are run all day long and in particular in things like skid steers & Dingo type gear because they have limited air flow and are very difficult to clean the cooling fins on the engine
On a mower, the actual cooler must have a thermally controlled bypass to regulater the oil temperature or you will do more damage than good .
Now to do the wet towel bit
Does you mower need an oil cooler ?
very few do
Oil needs to be between 80C and 120C to work as the factory that made the engine expected it to.
Oil coolers for motorcycles were all the rage in my youth and like all the other teenage know it alls I fitted several of them to my motorcycles on the belief that if the race bikes use them then my street bikes would too.
The end result ( in hindsight ) was excessive cam & follower wear although I did not know that till I was in my mid 20's and had actually learned about oils.
Now small engine users do fit them, usually only to commercial engines that are run all day long and in particular in things like skid steers & Dingo type gear because they have limited air flow and are very difficult to clean the cooling fins on the engine
On a mower, the actual cooler must have a thermally controlled bypass to regulater the oil temperature or you will do more damage than good .