Kawasaki Fj 180v car cleaning

Lawnboy18

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What is the fly wheel key?

As for TDC, yes it was. I tried my best at getting it at close as possible to the spark plug hole. I then unscrewed the set screw, adjusted the adjusting nut and once I was done I tightened the set screw while holding the adjusting nut. Then I cranked it a little to check the clearance at different positions to see if it was still good. Is that fine?

Now, one of the screw holes to secure the valve cover is a little stripped. I am not very comfortable fixing this. This motor is really a headache.
 

Parkmower

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Sorry I not gonna explain it. Someone else can or you can look it up. Prob a vid on YouTube. Easy to check and your symptoms warrant a check.
 

Fish

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Well to be specific, it comes to tdc twice, you need to adjust the valves when it is tdc and both valves are fully closed, the other tdc, one valve will just be closing, and the other will be starting to open. As far as the stripped out threads, I use helicoil myself, but buying a kit to do just one screw is kind of prohibitive. Any mower shop should be able to cure it for @ $10.
 

Lawnboy18

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I've checked for the fly wheel key on Youtube. I dont seem to have the symptom of the pull cord ripping my arm off and I did not hit anything while mowing with it. Before I stored it, it was running really well. But, if all else fails, I will replace it.

Now for the valve adjustment. How can I know it is at the right TDC? I guess I can see if both valves are closed by looking at there previous movements?

I will get the stripped thread fixed by a guy I know who fixes cars. Once it is fixed, I am going to readjust the valves.
 

Fish

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Just turn the engine by hand with the plug out and watch the valves, one rocker arm will be pushing the valve down, and as the piston comes back up, it will be letting the valve back up, and as you keep turning past the top dead center the other rocker arm will start moving. That is the TDC that you don't want... just keep rotating
and when you come up to the other tdc, both valves/rocker arms will be still. That is what you want.
 

Lawnboy18

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Just turn the engine by hand with the plug out and watch the valves, one rocker arm will be pushing the valve down, and as the piston comes back up, it will be letting the valve back up, and as you keep turning past the top dead center the other rocker arm will start moving. That is the TDC that you don't want... just keep rotating
and when you come up to the other tdc, both valves/rocker arms will be still. That is what you want.

Thanks a lot for the help! This is really appreciated! I will come back with an answer! I just have to ask my friend when he will have a little time to retap the thread for the rocker cover.
 

Lawnboy18

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I opened up the vavle cover again to readjust the valves. I put the motor at TDC compression (both vavles were not moving like you mentioned). I used my feeler gauge and did a few adjustments. I closed up everything and tried to start it up. After cranking a lot of times, the motor started, but really reved slowly. Really really slowly (it was barely running). I tried it again and it revved a little faster. After a while, it reved at a normal speed, but I was still having some surging issues. It was even over-revving at the end. I am really close to bringning this mower to a shop. I am out of ideas here unless someone here can help me out more. I know my way around motors, but I do have limited knowledge about them.
 

Lawnboy18

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I asked my friend what he thought about this and he recommended checking the fuel filter. Would this fuel filter cause all my problems? If so, can I just remove it temporarily to see if it is that?
 
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