Kawasaki FH680V Overheating

I checked the spark by placing the plug in the boot and then turning over the engine as I held the plug against metal. Good spark in both.
There is more to it than seeing a spark inside a plug. The below type is the best. Lets you adjust the gap to make sure the coil is healthy. I've seen coils drop spark at mid to high revs. Looked okay at low revs. Weak coil can fool you.

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ok, use a vac/fuel pressure gauge at fuel pump and test positive and negative readings. Pulse line should show 1 1/2 lbs. or more, suck side of pump should read - 1 1/2 lbs, and out side of pump to carb is 1 1/2 lbs. If all good and hoses are on right ports it will pump. If all hoses are correct you have blockage from tank to pump.
 
ok, use a vac/fuel pressure gauge at fuel pump and test positive and negative readings. Pulse line should show 1 1/2 lbs. or more, suck side of pump should read - 1 1/2 lbs, and out side of pump to carb is 1 1/2 lbs. If all good and hoses are on right ports it will pump. If all hoses are correct you have blockage from tank to pump.
Just pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Will easily see if the pump or a gravity system is working or not.
 
I haven't worked on it in a while. I replaced the coils and tried to start it. Somehow a wire started burning. So now I've got an electrical problem.
 
You got mice around your place?

Or harness rubbing on something? Need to investigate all harnesses on that machine. Top to bottom. Use those crimp n seal marine grade connectors if you find bad spots in the wire. The ones that the glue oozes out the ends after hitting them with a heat gun. Then wrap it all up with Tesa tape. It's made to wrap harnesses under hoods of cars.
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