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John Deere ztrack 830a impossible problem to pin point here!!! Please help
#1
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
Hello, I am new here long time viewer though. I am having issues with my ztrack. It has 1835.4 hours on it right now and here what it's doing. Once I have been mowing for an hour or so sometimes less sometimes more it starts loading power and sputtering and back firing and I have to disengage the pto and pull up on choke to keep it going. I just have to sit there holding the choke till I hear it needing fuel then I take the choke off and it just surges up and down. If I let it sit and cool down I can mow again just fine with no issues for about and hour or so then it starts all over. In the last week I have changed the cylinder heads, valves, coil packs, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel lines I cleaned the magnet on the fly wheel changed the oil and filter and air filter. The only thing I have been able to do is when it's running bad is I spray carb cleaner into the intake it picks back up I can actually keep it running with little sprits of carb cleaner. I took the carb apart and all the jets and everything is clear I know it could be a carb issue but you would think it would run bad all the time? I am lost and I have 856 acres growing out of control and this mower down all help tips and comments welcome!!!
#2
Nwatson99
Nwatson99
Sounds like a coil breaking down, had the same thing last year on my Z930A.
Just get you two new coils and replace them.
DO Not spray carb cleaner, starting fluid or any of that junk until you know for sure that the carb is the problem.
Just get you two new coils and replace them.
DO Not spray carb cleaner, starting fluid or any of that junk until you know for sure that the carb is the problem.
#3
H
HSMC
I changed them 2 days ago gaped to spec 00.8 and I took the cover off and checked them again both are still 0.08 also when it's running bad I have pulled the wires of each plug and it still sutters and such so I know it's getting spark
H
HSMC
Sounds like a coil breaking down, had the same thing last year on my Z930A.
Just get you two new coils and replace them.
DO Not spray carb cleaner, starting fluid or any of that junk until you know for sure that the carb is the problem.
I changed them 2 days ago gaped to spec 00.8 and I took the cover off and checked them again both are still 0.08 also when it's running bad I have pulled the wires of each plug and it still sutters and such so I know it's getting spark
#4
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HSMC
H
HSMC
I really don't think it's a carb problem I am not saying it's not but I don't see how it would run fine for hours like I put 6 hours on it yesterday before it started messing up again if it was the carb I don't see how it would run that long with no issues?
#5
Nwatson99
I don't think it is a carb problem also and after going through it last year that is screaming firing system overheating.
Did you change the plugs also?
Last year I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, inner and outer air filters, plugs, then low and behold it was the dang coils.
Nwatson99
I really don't think it's a carb problem I am not saying it's not but I don't see how it would run fine for hours like I put 6 hours on it yesterday before it started messing up again if it was the carb I don't see how it would run that long with no issues?
I don't think it is a carb problem also and after going through it last year that is screaming firing system overheating.
Did you change the plugs also?
Last year I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, inner and outer air filters, plugs, then low and behold it was the dang coils.
#6
H
HSMC
Yes on Monday when I changed the coils. To me it seems like a firing system problem too but it's all new? The only thing I noticed was today when I took the carb off there is carbon on the left side for the left cylinder but it had been back firing. Seems on the left side. I think there is a fuse for the coils but if it was bad I don't think it would fire at all. Next I could try the connections from the coils to the wiring harness?
H
HSMC
I don't think it is a carb problem also and after going through it last year that is screaming firing system overheating.
Did you change the plugs also?
Last year I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, inner and outer air filters, plugs, then low and behold it was the dang coils.
Yes on Monday when I changed the coils. To me it seems like a firing system problem too but it's all new? The only thing I noticed was today when I took the carb off there is carbon on the left side for the left cylinder but it had been back firing. Seems on the left side. I think there is a fuse for the coils but if it was bad I don't think it would fire at all. Next I could try the connections from the coils to the wiring harness?
#7
J
jimmy3262
J
jimmy3262
It almost sounds like it is vapor locking, where you have to chock it to keep it running that tells me it is starving for fuel and you said if you let it cool down its fine till it gets hot again. I am not familiar with your unit but if the fuel pump is old and getting weak its more likely to vapor lock, just food for thought. Might try a diffrent grade of gas might help
#9
Nwatson99
Did you do the filter also?
Nwatson99
I changed the fuel pump today
Did you do the filter also?
#10
Nwatson99
Yes sir I only run premium in my Z960R and the Z930A as well and when I put the new plugs in the 930 last year they still looked new like they were only a few months old.
Nwatson99
It almost sounds like it is vapor locking, where you have to chock it to keep it running that tells me it is starving for fuel and you said if you let it cool down its fine till it gets hot again. I am not familiar with your unit but if the fuel pump is old and getting weak its more likely to vapor lock, just food for thought. Might try a diffrent grade of gas might help
Yes sir I only run premium in my Z960R and the Z930A as well and when I put the new plugs in the 930 last year they still looked new like they were only a few months old.
#11
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
I changed the fuel filter the fuel pump and all the fuel lines. I can't run premium because I work for the state and we have an on site tank of 500 gallons that we use but the other ztrack runs fine so I don't think it's bad fuelYes sir I only run premium in my Z960R and the Z930A as well and when I put the new plugs in the 930 last year they still looked new like they were only a few months old.
#13
Nwatson99
Holy crap that is a lot of gaskets to narrow down, but the gasket should actually seal better with the heat from the engine unless it is the float gasket?
Nwatson99
I was thinking about it and now I'm starting to wonder about the intake manifold gaskets
Holy crap that is a lot of gaskets to narrow down, but the gasket should actually seal better with the heat from the engine unless it is the float gasket?
#14
N
nbest
N
nbest
Next time it starts to die take off the fuel cap just to check if the tank is getting air.
#15
M
motoman
M
motoman
I only speak here due to your frustration, not my knowledge of your machine. With that many hours I would perform some basic stuff. Have you tried a compression test? Have you run a probe through the fuel line? Crud in tank that clears and then settles at the fuel port off and on? Do your read the plug color when it starts missing. You said the choke keeps it running, but then it needs fuel? Did you mean throttle, meaning it is fouled and needs more air? Wiring flops around. Check for loose or unsecured connectors that could be intermittent. Could you have a binding fuel float that sometimes sticks? Dirty inlet valve? Just some idea.
#16
H
HSMC
Yesterday I took the gas cap off when it was running bad, there was no change. The compression test came back a little low but still above spec. I have drained the fuel take and refilled it. The spark plugs are turning a little white on the tips so I know it's firing hot but on a air cooled motor I don't really thing that's a problem. I have never had a machine confuse me like this lol. Thanks everyone for the help I have like 3-4 days before the carb rebuild kit gets here but I just know I am going to put it back together be a few hours into mowing and then it's going to run like crap....
H
HSMC
I only speak here due to your frustration, not my knowledge of your machine. With that many hours I would perform some basic stuff. Have you tried a compression test? Have you run a probe through the fuel line? Crud in tank that clears and then settles at the fuel port off and on? Do your read the plug color when it starts missing. You said the choke keeps it running, but then it needs fuel? Did you mean throttle, meaning it is fouled and needs more air? Wiring flops around. Check for loose or unsecured connectors that could be intermittent. Could you have a binding fuel float that sometimes sticks? Dirty inlet valve? Just some idea.
Yesterday I took the gas cap off when it was running bad, there was no change. The compression test came back a little low but still above spec. I have drained the fuel take and refilled it. The spark plugs are turning a little white on the tips so I know it's firing hot but on a air cooled motor I don't really thing that's a problem. I have never had a machine confuse me like this lol. Thanks everyone for the help I have like 3-4 days before the carb rebuild kit gets here but I just know I am going to put it back together be a few hours into mowing and then it's going to run like crap....
#17
M
motoman
M
motoman
Don't discount plug color as a clue. Intake gaskets could provide lean out if worn out as noted by others. If you have an infra red gun take some head temps. And BTW even new coils will fail at overheat. Of course I believe all AC engines are close to overheat, having measured 310F on my Intek. No I have not measured how hot a coil gets, but they have components in them that will only tolerate a certain threshold. Remember, too a lean running engine is much hotter .Not trying to torment, but you've got a tough one, right?
#18
Nwatson99
Nwatson99
HSMC did you purchase all your replacement parts from JD?
If so take the coils back, somehow I do not have a clue had they did it, but the service manager at my dealer checked both of my coils when I bought the new ones and said yes one was bad and the other one was good, but I replaced both of them and my problem which is like you have described went away.
Now just a thought where it sounds like either firing or not enough fuel, the valve cover where the fuel pump is located do you see a leak around it?
If so take the coils back, somehow I do not have a clue had they did it, but the service manager at my dealer checked both of my coils when I bought the new ones and said yes one was bad and the other one was good, but I replaced both of them and my problem which is like you have described went away.
Now just a thought where it sounds like either firing or not enough fuel, the valve cover where the fuel pump is located do you see a leak around it?
#19
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HSMC
H
HSMC
Yes all the parts have come from a JD dealer, there is no leak around that valve cover and the dealer changed the valves last week along with cylinder heads so those are new gaskets. I will have the coils checked again I mean it's free why not. Also the theory on the engine overheating and making the coil go out is not a bad idea. Do you think I should pull the oil cooler and see if it's clogged? Although I am not sure how I would find out if it's clogged or not?
#20
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HSMC
H
HSMC
Btw this is a fantastic forum you all have been so helpful and I am really thankful for the help
#21
Nwatson99
I would not think it would be, but it would not hurt to blow out behind it with the air compressor.
Nwatson99
Yes all the parts have come from a JD dealer, there is no leak around that valve cover and the dealer changed the valves last week along with cylinder heads so those are new gaskets. I will have the coils checked again I mean it's free why not. Also the theory on the engine overheating and making the coil go out is not a bad idea. Do you think I should pull the oil cooler and see if it's clogged? Although I am not sure how I would find out if it's clogged or not?
I would not think it would be, but it would not hurt to blow out behind it with the air compressor.
#22
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
I blew it out today and when I took it off the oil only really came out of one side and the oil that was in it was solid black I tried to look through it with the shop light and couldn't but I blew through it and the air was not restricted I don't the the oil cool has any problems.
#23
Nwatson99
Really well now that is another issue then, you just changed the oil so that means the oil is not circulating through the cooler if the oil in the cooler is black.
How does the oil look now in the machine when you check it?
Nwatson99
I blew it out today and when I took it off the oil only really came out of one side and the oil that was in it was solid black I tried to look through it with the shop light and couldn't but I blew through it and the air was not restricted I don't the the oil cool has any problems.
Really well now that is another issue then, you just changed the oil so that means the oil is not circulating through the cooler if the oil in the cooler is black.
How does the oil look now in the machine when you check it?
#24
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HSMC
H
HSMC
It was pitch black and super thick but the mower burns oil I'm loosing over a quart a day if I change the oil within the day it turns black 2 weeks ago when the valves and heads where changed it had 93% leak down
#26
Nwatson99
Holy shat man, it is time for a new engine.
You have a nice mower to use and since it is state owned, the state needs to replace the engine and get that machine back to working top notch.
Nwatson99
It was pitch black and super thick but the mower burns oil I'm loosing over a quart a day if I change the oil within the day it turns black 2 weeks ago when the valves and heads where changed it had 93% leak down
Holy shat man, it is time for a new engine.
You have a nice mower to use and since it is state owned, the state needs to replace the engine and get that machine back to working top notch.
#27
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HSMC
H
HSMC
We have nooo money right now our year ends this month next month is the new year and we are suppose to be getting 30k from the state high way for equitment and there is talk about buying two new ztrack 950s to replace them I just have to make this one work till then but even so it's unsure we will get new ones but these are at the end of there lives this one on top of the motor issues it also has weak hydraulic pumps they are stiff and wine and the other mower has gone through 12 deck belts and 4 drive belts in the last 30 days and the engine KNOCKS lol that one has 2800 hours though it's stupid I am beond frustrated with these machines I guess the last guys never changed the oil and treated them like crap it really shows
#28
Nwatson99
I was going to ask from reading what you have typed where they even serviced halfway to correctly, tranny fluid ever changed?
Tell the guy ordering to get the 970R if they are going 72" deck or if a 60" deck get the 960R, the 950R might be a little weak for the 72" deck.
I have the 960R with the 60" deck and it has all kinds of power and torque.
Anyway sounds like you might just have to mow and let it cool and make it last another month.
Nwatson99
We have nooo money right now our year ends this month next month is the new year and we are suppose to be getting 30k from the state high way for equitment and there is talk about buying two new ztrack 950s to replace them I just have to make this one work till then but even so it's unsure we will get new ones but these are at the end of there lives this one on top of the motor issues it also has weak hydraulic pumps they are stiff and wine and the other mower has gone through 12 deck belts and 4 drive belts in the last 30 days and the engine KNOCKS lol that one has 2800 hours though it's stupid I am beond frustrated with these machines I guess the last guys never changed the oil and treated them like crap it really shows
I was going to ask from reading what you have typed where they even serviced halfway to correctly, tranny fluid ever changed?
Tell the guy ordering to get the 970R if they are going 72" deck or if a 60" deck get the 960R, the 950R might be a little weak for the 72" deck.
I have the 960R with the 60" deck and it has all kinds of power and torque.
Anyway sounds like you might just have to mow and let it cool and make it last another month.
#29
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
The 950 is $9800 or something and the 960 is like 12 and then the 970 goes up to like 17k that's why they are going with the 950 because they can get two of then for 20k, it's the state man they are cheap I have to buy weed eater line from freaking walmart lol
#30
M
motoman
M
motoman
Without complicating things too much...wow, the machine may be tired, but I'm having trouble with a good leak down and oil blackening in a short time. Sure sounds like a lot of blowby contamination of the oil. There are dyes at auto parts places ($ unknown) that could be used to trace oil thru the cooler, but an oil change should also do the trick to see if oil is circulating thru the cooler. (Before it blackens). Also sounds like there is some engineering in your machine which should include an oil bypass (or oil thermostat) which allows the oil to reach operating temp before routing thru the cooler? Should sit below the cooler and may be pure mechanical (no electrical connections). I'm guessing . Also the free coil test is good, but if a bad batch of coils is in the pipeline which fail hot it is doubtful the dealer tester can detect it. Oh, and an infra red gun could make things simpler to check flow thru cooler . Keep checking the line and cooler, both sides vs engine temp.
#31
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
I rebuilt the carb today put and put it back on at 1836.0 at 1837.0 it started the whole back firing spitting and dying out again. I let it idle at full rpms for about 10 minutes spitting like this. Then I went from 1837.2 to 1838.4 at half throttle pulling up on the choke to keep it from dying and restarting it when it did. Then I took it and dropped it off at john deere for service. I will let you guys know what they say.
#32
Nwatson99
LOL if I was the JD service dept. I would say get that poor severely abused machine out of here and go dig a hole. :biggrin:
But yes please let us know what it is, I really want to know about it.
Nwatson99
I rebuilt the carb today put and put it back on at 1836.0 at 1837.0 it started the whole back firing spitting and dying out again. I let it idle at full rpms for about 10 minutes spitting like this. Then I went from 1837.2 to 1838.4 at half throttle pulling up on the choke to keep it from dying and restarting it when it did. Then I took it and dropped it off at john deere for service. I will let you guys know what they say.
LOL if I was the JD service dept. I would say get that poor severely abused machine out of here and go dig a hole. :biggrin:
But yes please let us know what it is, I really want to know about it.
#33
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
I told the service guys if they dump a bucket of sand in the oil that's cool just call and say it needs an engine
#34
Nwatson99
Well you getting a new mower?
Hey I was thinking about something you said, the price on those new mowers are too high for State Contract, KY has State Contracts with Cat and JD and those contracts provide much better pricing. What you said for the Z960R is what I paid for mine with MOD deck, so your price on the State Contract with the 7 Iron Pro deck should have been between 9 and 10 so you could get a pair of Z960Rs' which are much stronger than the Z950R for the 20K or better actually if you dept orders three I am sure another price break would chime in there.
Nwatson99
:laughing:I told the service guys if they dump a bucket of sand in the oil that's cool just call and say it needs an engine
Well you getting a new mower?
Hey I was thinking about something you said, the price on those new mowers are too high for State Contract, KY has State Contracts with Cat and JD and those contracts provide much better pricing. What you said for the Z960R is what I paid for mine with MOD deck, so your price on the State Contract with the 7 Iron Pro deck should have been between 9 and 10 so you could get a pair of Z960Rs' which are much stronger than the Z950R for the 20K or better actually if you dept orders three I am sure another price break would chime in there.
#35
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
We had a meeting in this yesterday. We can get two 960s for 17k with our dealer or we can get the two of the 970 diesels for 28k. The director wants the diesels because the 830as where purchased 5 years ago and are just circling the drain lol. They are thinking the diesels might make it 8-10 years. If they get us diesels that would be sweet lol. I think we need the diesels anyways we are running these machines over 30 hours a week and the diesel is water cooled.
#36
Parkmower
What state mows 856 acres with 2 JD ZT's that's ridiculous. Must not care what it looks like.
Parkmower
I am lost and I have 856 acres growing out of control and this mower down !!!
What state mows 856 acres with 2 JD ZT's that's ridiculous. Must not care what it looks like.
#37
Parkmower
Your better off getting one toro groundsmaster. It'll mow circles around those Deere ZT's for years after they're long dead.
Parkmower
We had a meeting in this yesterday. We can get two 960s for 17k with our dealer or we can get the two of the 970 diesels for 28k. The director wants the diesels because the 830as where purchased 5 years ago and are just circling the drain lol. They are thinking the diesels might make it 8-10 years. If they get us diesels that would be sweet lol. I think we need the diesels anyways we are running these machines over 30 hours a week and the diesel is water cooled.
Your better off getting one toro groundsmaster. It'll mow circles around those Deere ZT's for years after they're long dead.
#38
Carscw
I second the toro.
The grounds master is made for industrial use.
Carscw
Your better off getting one toro groundsmaster. It'll mow circles around those Deere ZT's for years after they're long dead.
I second the toro.
The grounds master is made for industrial use.
#39
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
We have to get the deeres because that's our only dealer. The grounds look good with ztracks it's just if there is any problems we immediately fall behind on the grounds we need industrial straight we run our mowers from 7:30 to 4:30 with only a one hour break on them they are running all day
#40
Parkmower
Parkmower
Not sayin the ztraks leave a bad cut. Saying its impossible to cut 890 acres in 60 hrs on two machines in a week. If you can cut ten acres an hour(not likely) that's only 600 acres a week. Or 2/3 of your area. That's if both machines are up and running 100%
#41
Parkmower
Parkmower
And you shouldn't be using anything under a 72" deck. If you are actually managing all of the 850 acres.
#42
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
The whole site is 856 we probably actually mow 200-400 a week and some of it gets mowed every 2 weeks
#43
Parkmower
Very big difference. In your first post you said 856 acres growing away.
I still recommend the toro groundsmaster or Jacobsen turf cat. That's what you really need.
Parkmower
The whole site is 856 we probably actually mow 200-400 a week and some of it gets mowed every 2 weeks
Very big difference. In your first post you said 856 acres growing away.
I still recommend the toro groundsmaster or Jacobsen turf cat. That's what you really need.
#44
Nwatson99
Yea the diesels would be best for what you guys mow and I bet after the director sees how the one was treated that is in the shop, I would hope service is done better. LOL
Nwatson99
We had a meeting in this yesterday. We can get two 960s for 17k with our dealer or we can get the two of the 970 diesels for 28k. The director wants the diesels because the 830as where purchased 5 years ago and are just circling the drain lol. They are thinking the diesels might make it 8-10 years. If they get us diesels that would be sweet lol. I think we need the diesels anyways we are running these machines over 30 hours a week and the diesel is water cooled.
Yea the diesels would be best for what you guys mow and I bet after the director sees how the one was treated that is in the shop, I would hope service is done better. LOL
#45
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
Well the shop called. The problem? Rocks, cigarette butts, a mouse a chain and tons of sand in the gas tank. I dropped the gas tank on the other mower same story. When I looked in the tanks with a flashlight I couldn't really see any of it but once you pull the tank and dump it out...omg! I think the guys last year dumped it in there their last day or something
#47
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
NEW ISSUE: low oil pressure light is flickering after running for awhile. I changed the connector to the oil pressure sensor no issues for 3 hours then it starts again. Clogged oil filter?
#48
Nwatson99
Nwatson99
Holy shat!!
I hope you have everyone's name that ran those machines last year and they are never to be rehired again or fired if they are currently working.
Change out the sending unit.
I hope you have everyone's name that ran those machines last year and they are never to be rehired again or fired if they are currently working.
Change out the sending unit.
#49
H
HSMC
H
HSMC
Oh they are never coming back. But yeah I found out if it was just the oil filter the engine would by pass it. When I had the mower just sitting not running I turned the key to where the low oil pressure light comes on and then unplugged the sensor and the light went out. Then I plug it back in it comes back on. So my sensor is working. I ran the machine for 5 hours today with the light on/flickering without any problems but I think it might be the sending unit but on the other hand I think it could be losing oil pressure. Spec says if oil pressure falls to 7lbs the light comes on so if pressure is at 8-9 and then going down to 7 the light would come on till it picked back up. If I go from full throttle to idle the light stays solid or after running steady the light just stays on. But we will not be taking the motor apart if it is the oil pump I have been told to ignore the light lmao
#52
Nwatson99
Well anyway what is new, did you get some new units yet?
Nwatson99
No some idiot filled the tanks with rocks and such
Well anyway what is new, did you get some new units yet?
#53
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HSMC
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HSMC
Nope the proposal as been submitted though. They are talking end if September lol. Um after that problem got fixed a had a low oil pressure light kept mowing no issues after 20 hours till I changed the oil filter and that light went out even though john deere told me if the filtered clogged the machine would bypass the filter I guess that was not true. Today I filled up the mower with gas and oil got 3 hours on the machine and the low oil light comes on I check the oil and there was not a single drop on the stick, we will see if we make it to September lol
#54
Nwatson99
That much oil burning and leaking you might make it to Sept if you keep cases of oil on the truck and add some every 2 hours then.
Nwatson99
Nope the proposal as been submitted though. They are talking end if September lol. Um after that problem got fixed a had a low oil pressure light kept mowing no issues after 20 hours till I changed the oil filter and that light went out even though john deere told me if the filtered clogged the machine would bypass the filter I guess that was not true. Today I filled up the mower with gas and oil got 3 hours on the machine and the low oil light comes on I check the oil and there was not a single drop on the stick, we will see if we make it to September lol
That much oil burning and leaking you might make it to Sept if you keep cases of oil on the truck and add some every 2 hours then.
#55
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HSMC
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HSMC
Well I work for a state museum so I get to drive the mower to where ever I am mowing. I did determined the main seal and the manical govenenor off the crankshaft are my leaks, overnight I lose .15 a quart maybe running I have no idea. But running it's burning so bad the smoke from exhaust is blue and under load of mowing and doing turns and starting off kinda hard makes big clouds of smoke or if you just let the machine just sit running it would smoke out a 1000 square foot shop in just a few minutes
#56
D
deamer1
D
deamer1
Hi!
Deamer1 here.
I was reading about your situation with the JD mower. Some of your earliest comments was about the unit back firing.
That is caused by a gasoline engine running LEAN.
I've experienced this several times in my career working in the State Parks System with various brands of mowers.
The fuel source (tank) is always suspect as would be fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump or anything connected with supplying fuel to the engine.
Another item which can cause this very problem is a sticking carburetor plate. Many of these mowers (Various Brands) use a Japanese and/or South Korean carburetor which is not adjustable.
What happens is the carb plates stick (not fully functioning) and thus the back firing. The last time I experienced this back firing situation was on a SCAG Mower. We cleaned out the fuel tank, changed the filter, checked the fuel pump output, and blew out the fuel lines. Then we put a squirt of KRoil penetrating oil on the end of the throttle plates shaft and BINGO the problem was cured! We discovered the plates and most of the carb was aluminium, but the shaft the plates ride on is steel or some metal which will rust. This rust builds up and binds the plates from full functioning operation and will stick at times, thus causing the LEAN operation. During our preventative maintenance and regular maintenance program we have added a squirt of penetrating oil on this shaft location. It makes a difference. Sometimes we run a can of fuel injector cleaner through the mower via the gas tank. It seems like it may help somewhat also.
The main problem is that the carburetor is not adjustable, so rather than purchase new carbs we deal with it during maintenance.
A good thing to remember: Backfires are caused by a gas engine running lean....follow the fuel flow to remedy this.
I'm not addressing all the other situations you have with the mower. They could better be addressed with a larger budget or better state contracts with the various dealers/manufacturers.
Hope this helps someone now or in the future.
Enjoy your week.
Deamer1
Deamer1 here.
I was reading about your situation with the JD mower. Some of your earliest comments was about the unit back firing.
That is caused by a gasoline engine running LEAN.
I've experienced this several times in my career working in the State Parks System with various brands of mowers.
The fuel source (tank) is always suspect as would be fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump or anything connected with supplying fuel to the engine.
Another item which can cause this very problem is a sticking carburetor plate. Many of these mowers (Various Brands) use a Japanese and/or South Korean carburetor which is not adjustable.
What happens is the carb plates stick (not fully functioning) and thus the back firing. The last time I experienced this back firing situation was on a SCAG Mower. We cleaned out the fuel tank, changed the filter, checked the fuel pump output, and blew out the fuel lines. Then we put a squirt of KRoil penetrating oil on the end of the throttle plates shaft and BINGO the problem was cured! We discovered the plates and most of the carb was aluminium, but the shaft the plates ride on is steel or some metal which will rust. This rust builds up and binds the plates from full functioning operation and will stick at times, thus causing the LEAN operation. During our preventative maintenance and regular maintenance program we have added a squirt of penetrating oil on this shaft location. It makes a difference. Sometimes we run a can of fuel injector cleaner through the mower via the gas tank. It seems like it may help somewhat also.
The main problem is that the carburetor is not adjustable, so rather than purchase new carbs we deal with it during maintenance.
A good thing to remember: Backfires are caused by a gas engine running lean....follow the fuel flow to remedy this.
I'm not addressing all the other situations you have with the mower. They could better be addressed with a larger budget or better state contracts with the various dealers/manufacturers.
Hope this helps someone now or in the future.
Enjoy your week.
Deamer1
#57
Nwatson99
WOW that is a coin toss then if it will make it, do you have someone who could rebuild that engine on your off days so you are not without a machine? Is the other machine same or worse?
Nwatson99
Well I work for a state museum so I get to drive the mower to where ever I am mowing. I did determined the main seal and the manical govenenor off the crankshaft are my leaks, overnight I lose .15 a quart maybe running I have no idea. But running it's burning so bad the smoke from exhaust is blue and under load of mowing and doing turns and starting off kinda hard makes big clouds of smoke or if you just let the machine just sit running it would smoke out a 1000 square foot shop in just a few minutes
WOW that is a coin toss then if it will make it, do you have someone who could rebuild that engine on your off days so you are not without a machine? Is the other machine same or worse?