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John Deere X300 won't crank(hour meter won't even show up)

#1

R

rlwatts

John Deere X300 won't crank. Installed new battery today. When key is turned there is no sounds at all and neither the headlights nor hour meter come on. Last started in December and worked fine. What are the possible problems?


#2

D

Darryl G

Is the new battery actually fully charged? It could have been sitting around for months in the off season and discharged.

Also check/clean/tighten connections and make sure brake is on, PTO switch off etc.


#3

B

bertsmobile1

Fuse blown .
This will happen if the battery is hooked up backwards.
A bad battery cable or cable connection , remember they have 2 ends.


#4

G

gtroberson

How did this work out? I am having the same issue. Battery good, cables good. Stopped suddenly will not restart.


#5



Deleted member 97405

gtroberson, check your fuses first and report if any are blown. Thanks!


#6

G

gtroberson

Let me back up and fill in the full timeline. Mower was running doing some clean up work around yard. Engine started sputtering, then shut off. Immediately suspected low on fuel, added some to tank, then no response when trying to restart. No solenoid click, no hour meter display, nothing. Found blown fuse in starting circuit. Did not have any at the time so waited to pick some up.

Follow up attempts to start have resulted in another blown fuse. Replaced again. Also noticed the ECU (AM141075) was overheating and starting to melt the resin.

I am hearing there have been some issues with the ECU in the past, wondering if a failure in it can result in blowing the fuse. I have a new ECU but trying to confirm no other circuit issues before I swap it out.


#7

M

mikebarber

I keep seeing more and more "1 WAY" streets around various forums


#8

Alex B

Alex B

Hi, I'm new here. I recently purchased a used 2009 x300. I was able to do 2 mows this year so far and today I experienced the same issue discussed here. I tried to do a cold start and it wouldn't start, I opened the hood to check if anything looked out of order and everything looked good at first glance so I put hood down and attempted to crank one more time. This time, the engine wouldn't even crank. Lights would come on and engine hours meter was also on but no crank. My neighbor helped me jump start with a car battery but no result. However, the engine hours meter now wouldn't come on at all. I took battery off and took to auto place to have it checked. The cold crank amp was coming up at 260 and the battery was measuring at 12.6 volts so it appears to be in good shape.

Just started to look at different posts online and this one is the one that describes my issue the closest. I've checked the 3 different fuses and they are all good, no cracks in them. I'm down to a couple of guesses (ECU, a starter relay or the starter selenoid). Can someone shed some light on what I could check on next before I have to reach out to the dreaded dealer for help? Thank you, any assitance is greatly appreciated!


#9

B

bertsmobile1

For less than the price of a visit to a mower shop you can buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
I can not stress just how detailed & well written these books are, far better than any mower mechanic text books used in colleges.


#10

Alex B

Alex B

For less than the price of a visit to a mower shop you can buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
I can not stress just how detailed & well written these books are, far better than any mower mechanic text books used in colleges.
Thank you. I downloaded the technical manual and it does have a lot of information including step by step troubleshooting. A bit overwhelming I could say but that's only after reading it for an hour or so last night. I'll try to tackle a bit more today but this may take a while.


#11

B

bertsmobile1

Read it twice and you will be telling people here how to fix their mowers :)
Anything that you do not fully understand then please pop over and ask.
Plenty here who are always willing to help.
The electrics on most JD's is way more complicated than it needs to be, particularly their over use of relays.
The hardest part is working out which model year you have & finding the correct wiring diagram.
The first one I bought payed for itself on the very first job.
Don't take too much attention to what the JD partsretailers tell you as all of those boards are easily repairable for a tiny fraction of the replacement price.


#12

Alex B

Alex B

Just wanted to post an update to my issue. While following the troubleshooting offered by the Technical Manual, I started by testing the electrical components, first the battery and the cables attached to it, made sure battery was providing enough juice, more than 12v which mine was putting out 12.4v. I invested in a little voltage meter at the local Harbor Freight store, given that in the past I've wished I had access to one, I decide to splurge a little and go with the $39 one rather than the $6, although I think that would've done the job just as good. Once I checked the battery I moved to the fuses and they checked good as well. I then tested the Starter relay according to the instructions in the tech manual and that one checked out all good too... Given that my main issue was not only the fact that I wasn't able to crank the motor, it wouldn't even make a noise when the ignition was turned; but the fact that my lights wouldn't turn on at all and the service hour meter wasn't even displaying anything either, I decided to check the cables leading out from the battery. I triple checked the polarity of the battery cables to make sure it wasn't something stupid like that, but they were all good. So I decided to follow the cables from the lights to see where they connected to the battery or to what, that led me to the starter key switch where you basically stick the key to turn the ignition. The handy dandy tech manual showed me how to test it, which simply required me to disconnect it and test it with the voltmeter, so I did and it tested good... However, low and behold when I reconnected it back to the main cable on the mower and turn the ignition one click (lights on), the lights came on and so did the service hour meter. I was beyond thrilled. In my case I didn't have to replace any parts and I can only say that the root cause of my problem was either a lose starter key switch or the fact that I cleaned it up from some of the dirt build up when I took it off to tested.

In the end I'm thankful that I got it to work and that it was that simple. I must add that I also fired up the engine. I didn't care that it was 10pm and the neighbors would probably wondered why the heck was I doing that, but I didn't care, I was just happy to make it work. When I first tried to crank it up, it kept trying to fire up but it wouldn't... This was my first symptom before my whole ordeal began as I described on my previous post so I naturally got worried, I didn't want to flood the carburator so I stepped down from the mower and decided to inspect the seat switch, I removed it and it looked good. I decided to manually press the switch while I turned the ignition key to run and this time the engine fired up right away... So now I'm very suspicious of that seat switch needless to say but I didn't experiment further with it. It was getting late and I was happy that worse case scenario it appears that it would be the seat switch...I'll be mowing on Friday and I will test further at that time to see if it was truly the seat switch or it was simply the fact that the carburator had temporarily flooded when I tried to started many times prior.

Anyway, sorry for the long post but I didn't want to go without posting an update of my experience in case that it might help someone else down the road. I am glad for the suggestion from bertsmobile1 to purchase the technical manual. I was able to find it for a very low price and the material it's something that I'm going to be referring to in the future. I must admit, the task of troubleshooting these kind of engines may seem daunting but guides like that are worth if you're willing to take the time to read them. I considered myself handy but even with some of the basic concepts of using a voltage meter and testing switches, relays and the such, is something that just takes a little researching but once you learn it, it's something it's worth knowing for future reference, you'll never know when you'll need it again.


#13

B

bertsmobile1

Alex,
Long posts that a full of positive information are always welcome
For some strange reason owners resist buying those tech manuals which you have now found out are well worth the money.
With switches & plugs, some times just unplugging it & repluging will clean the surfaces enough when they have slightly corroded.


#14

V

vestaviascott

Hello there. I have a 2010 X320 that's doing the exact same thing. It hasn't given me a bit of trouble, just cut a couple weeks ago. Tried to crank today and it wouldn't do a thing, no hour meter, no lights, nada. Battery multimeters at 12.4 volts. It finally started once, ran for a bit then stopped. I think it needed to choke a bit longer than I let it.

Anyway, After reading this thread, I unplugged the switch harness and plugged it back in, what do you know the hour meter showed up, then I turned the switch to off position then back and nothing again.

I searched and found what appears to be a service manual but there does not appear to be a procedure spelled out for how to test the switch terminals. I suspect a bad switch. Just want to test before ordering a new one.

UPDATE: I found a video on Youtube that showed how to test the ignition switch continuity. Turns out my ignition switch is bad. After getting no continuity on all settings except for off (Ground + Magneto), I took the switch apart to find the small metal contact in the center of the switch appears to be loose and possibly broken. I'm ordering a new switch.


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