John Deere X300 won't crank(hour meter won't even show up)

[rlwatts]

Brand new battery(purchased today) installed and still nothing when key is turned. No sounds at all and even the hour meter doesn't light up. No headlights either. Parking break on. Last started in December with no problems. Other than the ignition switch, what could it be. Thanks for any help. X300 is about five years old.

 

[bertsmobile1]

As with your previous post in another section the fuse is the prime suspect.
After that the cables at both ends.
The battery polarity

There should be a thin wire on the solenoid terminal that has the battery wire on it.
That is the power supply to the entire mower when it is not running.

 

[gtroberson]

How did this work out. I have the same issue.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Clean the ground from batt to engine. Check for blown fuse or corroded fuse connection

 

[Pesh29]

Brand new battery(purchased today) installed and still nothing when key is turned. No sounds at all and even the hour meter doesn't light up. No headlights either. Parking break on. Last started in December with no problems. Other than the ignition switch, what could it be. Thanks for any help. X300 is about five years old.

I have the same problem how can I fix this problem I replace the solenoid and starter and battery still same??? Thank you

 

[bertsmobile1]

I have the same problem how can I fix this problem I replace the solenoid and starter and battery still same??? Thank you

The solenoid starter & battery that you did not need is about twice the price of the Technical manual that you do need so go to the JD web page and buy one
Find your wiring diagram and print it out as large as you can so it is easy to see in your workshop.
The manual has step by step trouble shooting tells you what to test, where that part , wire , plug is and how to test it .
JD's can be a problem as they like to fit fuseable links ( fancy name for a wire that is only just able to carry the current before burning out ) in place of and some times even with standard blade fuses.
I don't have an X series manual because I am yet to service one.
However, general principles apply
Start at the battery and check the terminals are connected the correct way round.
Then clean both the power & the ground cables at both ends also making sure that the surface the cables bolt to is clean and the fasteners are tight
The power cable generally shares one terminal of the solenoid with the power feed to the mower.
A common mistake is to fit the thin wire with a ring terminal to the starter motor side so it can not supply power to the mower.
This thinner wire usually has a fuse on it then goes to the B ( Battery ) terminal on the key switch the letters are on the back of the switch.
If there is power to the key switch then the hour meter & lights should work. Also the solenoid on the carb should make a quiet click when the key is turned on.

 

[StarTech]

Bert the TM2308 covers John Deere X300 X304 X320 X324 X340 X360 mowers. JD lists it at 205 usd for the CD. I'll download a copy this morning as it wont cost me that but the very first thing the OP needs to check is the fuse when everything is dead.

But JD and other part suppliers just loves it when an user starts buying parts before any real troubleshooting has been done. I have seen owners/DIYers spend over $300 to fix an electrical problem when the root cause was a fifty cent terminal.

 

[StarTech]

This model does have a serial break at 040000 so there are two different schematics USA side and there is also an export schematic for SN 0150001 and up.

Basically there are two interconnects, a 15A fuse, and the ignition switch and its connector. Check for 12v at the ignition switch B+ terminal which should be the red wire. Also there is a 7.5 amp after the ignition switch on the early models but not on the later models before the hour meter.

After this it does get more complicated with the interlock module.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Bert the TM2308 covers John Deere X300 X304 X320 X324 X340 X360 mowers. JD lists it at 205 usd for the CD. I'll download a copy this morning as it wont cost me that but the very first thing the OP needs to check is the fuse when everything is dead.

But JD and other part suppliers just loves it when an user starts buying parts before any real troubleshooting has been done. I have seen owners/DIYers spend over $300 to fix an electrical problem when the root cause was a fifty cent terminal.

Wanna know how many mowers have turned up at the gate with a new battery, new solenoid, new ignition & PTO switches but all they needed was the valve lash tightened up.
While the manual may be expensive it is cheap in the long run & both you & I know that
If not for the cost of replacing perfectly good parts then for the amount of time & aggro saved.

 

[StarTech]

I don't have enough fingers and toes to count that high.