Hello, new kid here. I am sure somebody has addressed this issue already, but here it is----
Bought a 12 month old JD E110 from a guy several weeks ago. Mower ran fine until I reached about 100 hours on the motor.
I stopped the mower for fuel up, sat about 15 minutes, then no start.
1. Initial problem seemed like hydro lock, compression too high, etc
2. Checked battery, good battery
3. Mower finally starts, then goes balls out high RPM rev, and settles down. Finished mowing, would occasionally repeat issues.
4. Mower had 100 hours but decided to have valves checked and gapped.
5. Mower started up fine but chugged and sputtered coughs out black smoke. No acceleration at all, won't rev up at all.
6. Replaced carb with Chinese garbage carb, no improvement.
7. Replaced carb with OEM Briggs garbage, no improvement.
8. New spark plug, cleaned and gapped coil mag, check old carbs for signs of water (none)
9. Mower will start up, act like it's too rich, plug is black with soot but dry. Does not rev balls out, high but won't accelerate to high. Runs on it's own but chugs and sputters and faint traces of black smoke coming out.
10. Pissed off and confused as the symptoms change.
19hp BS single OHV
Please help before I smash the mower with a backhoe.
Sounds very similar to what would happen if the main jet is missing or has fallen out
Start the engine then clamp off the fuel line
If the engine runs a whole lot better as it is running out of fuel then suspect the carb.
When diagnosing a problem forget every thing that has been done and go back to the basics
Or as I used to teach the students assume noting & suspect everything till proven otherwise .
I like to fit red in line spark testers and watch them while the engine is playing up.
This allows me to rule in or out electrical faults.
I like to disconnect the fuel line then see if I can run the engine by pouring fuel ( I like to use carb cleaner ) down the carb.
This rules in or out a fuel problem .
And remember one problem can end up being 20 problems so don't go looking for a single cause.
The other thing to look at is fouled plugs so having some fresh properly gapped plugs on hand because a carbon fouled plug will at some time start tracking down the side of the electrode.
A bad magneto and a shorting out magneto kill wire can manifest with exactly the same symptoms .
I've twice had similar problems--discovered that the pinhole vent in the gas cap was clogged, & engine would not draw fuel and die or not start. A long shot for you, but you never know--good luck!
FOLLOW UP $$$$$$$
So, I ended up getting a new OEM carb which did no good. After much grief and suffering I ripped the engine out and autopsied it. As I originally suspected the awesome design of the cam compression release flew apart and broke the governor to boot.
I should have known after I discovered that this camshaft issue is fairly common. I have a new cam and governor coming this week. Thank you to all who cared enough to offer help with this boat anchor.
The intake valve guide is out towards the rocker about 1/2 inch and the exhaust guide is nearly flush, maybe up 1/8 inch or so. Guess I will see if it runs like that. Motor only has 100 hours on it and already blew the cam comp release and shattered the governor to boot.
That is the reason your mower won't start & when it does it is hardly worth the effort.
All that is going to happen is you will damage the cam & bend the pushrod.
If it is not too bad you can reposition the guide & stake it to stop it moving.
Guides only come loose for one reason, overheating .
