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Repairs John Deere D170 won't start
- Thread starter COMPUDOC
- Start date
The Operator's manual troubleshooting chart said that that could be the problem. Is it possible for the mower to be engaged even if the engage button is not pulled up? The problem started when something jammed in the mower belt and the engine and mower stopped abruptly. Also, when the ignition switch is turned to the start position nothing happens; dead silence is all there is.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited:
Same problem here. My JD model D170 is less than a year old and will not start...does not turn over at all or even make a clicking sound. Was working fine when I used it to take my JD yard cart out to put some boxes on the street for trash pickup, then returned to garage and shut it down to reload the cart for another trip to the street. At that point the problem arose with no warning indication of trouble. Just checked battery and is 12+ volts. Checked 20amp fuse and appears to be okay. Checked seat safety switch but appears connections solid. Ensured RIO (Reverse Implement Option) is engaged behind mower. All that said, I WAS able to start the mower using my booster battery with no problem! Am going to take the added measure to clean my battery terminals and see if perhaps there is a poor battery connection that somehow my booster battery bypassed by how I attached the booster cables. If my mower had NOT started, I would at least think there is an electrical issue and called for JD service. Since it DID start with my booster bettery, I am compelled to continue trying to isolate the problem until it is apparent repair is beyond my capability. Appreciate any wisdom any of you guys can offer. Comments anyone? :confused2:
Here is what I recommend you do in this order. Hope it helps. Report back.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Rivets...
Thanks for your response. I have checked the items you asked for as listed below...
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 vs
Reply: Both terminals are clean with tight connections. Voltage between terminals is 12.7 volts.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is
connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test
light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Reply: Voltage from positive battery post to solenoid is 12.7 volts.
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and
holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power
from the ignition switch. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety
switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and small solenoid post before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position
(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and small solenoid post before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4-7 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and starter connection before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4-7 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
Reply: Ground connection is clean and solid. For some reason, mower starts with no problem
when using my portable 12-volt booster battery (showing 12.3 volts) which tells me the
fuse and all connections should be good. It seems to me that the battery that came with
the mower (ie, 1 year old) that currently shows a 12.7-volt charge should also be able to
start the mower?
...Rick
Thanks for your response. I have checked the items you asked for as listed below...
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 vs
Reply: Both terminals are clean with tight connections. Voltage between terminals is 12.7 volts.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is
connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test
light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Reply: Voltage from positive battery post to solenoid is 12.7 volts.
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and
holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power
from the ignition switch. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety
switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and small solenoid post before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position
(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and small solenoid post before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4-7 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and starter connection before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4-7 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
Reply: Ground connection is clean and solid. For some reason, mower starts with no problem
when using my portable 12-volt booster battery (showing 12.3 volts) which tells me the
fuse and all connections should be good. It seems to me that the battery that came with
the mower (ie, 1 year old) that currently shows a 12.7-volt charge should also be able to
start the mower?
...Rick
Lawnranger
Well-Known Member
Rivets...
Thanks for your response. I have checked the items you asked for as listed below...
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 vs
Reply: Both terminals are clean with tight connections. Voltage between terminals is 12.7 volts.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is
connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test
light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Reply: Voltage from positive battery post to solenoid is 12.7 volts.
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and
holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power
from the ignition switch. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety
switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and small solenoid post before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position
(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and small solenoid post before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4-7 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Reply: Meter reads 12.7 volts when held between battery and starter connection before turning
switch to start position, at which time voltage drops to about 4-7 volts when ignition switch
is engaged.
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
Reply: Ground connection is clean and solid. For some reason, mower starts with no problem
when using my portable 12-volt booster battery (showing 12.3 volts) which tells me the
fuse and all connections should be good. It seems to me that the battery that came with
the mower (ie, 1 year old) that currently shows a 12.7-volt charge should also be able to
start the mower?
...Rick
I had the craziest thing happen just the other day and the battery showed 12.6 volts but while trying to crank the engine the battery voltage dropped down to less than 2 volts. Hook your meter across the battery and watch the display as you crank the engine with the key.
I'm kinda glad you suggest that because it confirms what has been lurking in my mind - I guess I was just hoping for a magical quick-fix solution (haha). The only reason I have not had my battery checked is because it shows a good charge, and because it was starting fine one minute and just several minutes later I couldn't even get the solenoid to click when trying to start the engine. Perhaps it is just one of those electrical flukes caused by a bad cell as you seem to think. I will add that my headlights also do not come on with my JD battery but does with my booster battery. I think that adds additional credence to me having a bad battery. Well, the only way to make that determination is to take the battery in to have checked. That will be my mission tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Thanks!