Hi im new to the site and have recently bought a john deere 320 riding mower. I was hoping someone could tell me the anssers to the issues it has. First the battery indicator light turned on and i replaced the battery. It still remains on so i think it might be the voltage regulator as i tested the brown/white and brown/yellow wires going to the voltage regulator from the flywheel. My volt meter read 14 volts. I dont know how to test the voltqge regulator though to be sure that is what it is.
The other issue is aith the front end. It clunks when going through the yard. Not a steady clunk just when i hit an uneven portion of the yard. I noticed too while sitting still that the front axle will move backward and forward when turning the steering wheel. Not sure why it does this.
Finally i purchased a front lift kit from the dealer as i am planning on using my snowthrower this winter. Im planning on making my own weights.
Oops I guesa that would help. I'll xheck tonight. The unit serial number is partially worn off. And the engine is a kawasaki engine and i'll have to look for that number too.
Thanks for the service manual link. I've browsed through it using my smartphone. I really need to get an ipad. These phones are going to make me go blind. .
If you look at Section 7 in the manual it gives a very good description on how to test the various parts of the charging system. That should help you diagnosis your problem.
Below is a parts breakdown for your tractor. When you go to the section on the front axle I wound look to see if the bushing, part #4, is bad. Check all the linkages on this diagram to make sure they are tight. If you have jack stands, put the unit up and then check for loose parts.
Thank you rivet. You are truly a mower addict. I am going out now to look at the front end. you suppose i have to take the wheels and all the steering linkage off just to check the axle bushing?
I started taking the front end apart and one thing lead to another. I have the hood off, the muffler offand the pto has to come off in order to get the axle down. I wasn't thinking it would take this much to fix an axle. While under the frame I noticed the drive belt is severely weathered and will need to be replaced. both valve covers are leaking. I'm wondering if I should cut my losses and push it to the curb. He he.
Don't push it to the curb until you know how much it is going to cost to repair. Sometimes things look a lot worse than they seem. Take your time, price it out, then make your decision. Now that you have both manuals, you may just like a winter project.
I got my second wind and I removed the radiator and plastic fan and shroud. I had my son hold a breaker bar on the top of the engine while I went under it to break the pto bolt loose. No luck with that. My question is the pto bolt left handed thread?
Sorry if this is a duplicate post. Im didnt see that my first post went or not.
I removed the radiator and plastic shroud and fan. I had my son with a breaker bar hold the top nut while I crawled under to break the pto nut loose. No luck with that. My question, is thw pto nut left handed thread?
Sorry, don't know what you mean by PTO bolt?? If you mean flywheel bolt, it is a right handed bolt, loosen counterclockwise. They are on tight, I use an impact wrench.
By pto I mean the pto electric clutch. I have to remove the clutch in order to remove the front axle. Do you know if the electric pto clutch is left handed thread?
Right hand. Again impact wrench. This would be a first, having to remove PTO, to get the front axle off. Normally all I have to do is take off the tie rods and the bolt through the center on the axle. Guess that's what I learned new today.
an impact would be nice to break the bolt loose. I probably could have avoided removing the radiator and plastics. I'll give it another go tomorrow. I will be replacing many parts so is there a place you would suggest to get parts. The parts im talking about are drive belt, valve cover gaskets, probably some electric charging system part. That is what my list is so far. The other parts are dealer itemsonly. Those will include front lift kit, and front axle bushings.
Thank you rivet for the help. My son and i was able to get the deere fixed and ready for the winter. I think the only thing left for the deere is to purchase wheel weights.
Thank you rivet for the help. My son and i was able to get the deere fixed and ready for the winter. I think the only thing left for the deere is to purchase wheel weights.
I know this is an old thread, but I just joined hoping to find the electrical diagram for the safety system on the 320. The engine manual will be very helpful going forward, Thank you! but my problem now is no spark. it will crank but without spark. I'm pretty sure it's one of the safety feature switches. I am about to disconnect the grounds to the coils to confirm coils are not bad.
I guess I should check the low oil shut down too?
Thank you in advance to anyone who is willing to help.
John,
#20
Glyn Robinson
hello. i decided to install new bushings in the front axle of my JD 320 a couple of weeks ago. the PTO clutch does have to come out in order to get the center pin out. i now have a lot less slack in the front end. i'm now debating on changing the "plastic cam shaft". the engine rolled over 1,000 hours last sunday.
#21
javjacob
I would recommend replacing the plastic cam gear with the upgraded steel cam gear. I have a 1998 345 which has the exact same motor as the 320 and I put in the steel cam/gear 2 years ago. While I had it apart I also replaced the water pump ($65) oil pump gear ($4) and governor gears ($15). I did it just for piece of mind.
The 320 is well worth spending the money on. Do the steel gear and you wont ever have to worry about it ever again.
#22
Glyn Robinson
thanks for the reply. so you split the block with engine upside down, makr sure the timing marks aline then pull the old cam out and slide the new cam in? what about the tappets?
#23
javjacob
You will need new tappets to go with the new cam and gear. They are cheap though. My friend who is a mechanic did the actual motor work for me so I cant comment on that. I just pulled the motor out, cleaned it up and dropped it off with all the new parts. Then I picked it up with all the new parts installed (and old parts in a box) and I put the motor back in.
#24
javjacob
There is a lot of info on this over at mytractorforum.com in the John Deere lawn and garden tractor section and a lot of current members (285,320,345 owners) have done the swap over there.
#25
Glyn Robinson
did you get everything repaired or did you kick it to the curb? lol love my 320!