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I have a question about my Mower which has shut down on me over the weekend.

The problem, briefly:
Got off the Mower without shutting down the blades or putting the brake on and it auto-shut off (as it is supposed to).
Since then, however, it's never started again.
Things I've tried:
1) I've made sure that I'm sitting on it, that the blades are turned off and that the brake (and clutch) are engaged all to no avail. When I turn the ignition I hear a faint pffff sound but no cranking.
2) I've used a multimeter to check several obvious electrical problems: I've checked the battery, the solenoid from the battery (I think) and several fuses and they all seem fine. Battery charge reads 12.6V
3)I also tried to jump the battery from my car and the behavior did not change (I.e. No cranking even with boost from my car battery)
4) I suppose an obvious problem is a stuck safety switch, specially given the chronology of events. I've been able to test 2 of them: the one under the seat, and the one that checks if blades are on. Both switches are fine (I also tried to jump them just to check - nothing happened)

The bottom line questions:
A) I would like to test the 3rd safety switch - the one attached to the clutch - but I can't find it. Does anyone know where I can find it?
B) Alternatively, where can I find a diagram that explains my engine parts and/or wiring - so I can try to find it myself (and double-check that I've checked voltage at every position)
C) If I run out of ideas, what do people usually do? Can I call a dealer (or some other mechanic) to come take a look? (I don't have a way of bringing the mower to the dealer). Just don't know what's usually done to repair these things.

Thanks!
-Alex

Post year, model & serial numbers, engine manufacturer as well as all numbers from engine. Hands on, check circuit breaker, fuses, everything electrical, making sure all connections are good & tight and free from rust & corrosion. I believe you might have to reset breaker.

John Deere Model 170 Lawn Tractor Parts

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...pv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=wiring+diagram+jd+170+tractor

"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"

OMM147259_J1

mechanic mark said:

Post year, model & serial numbers, engine manufacturer as well as all numbers from engine. Hands on, check circuit breaker, fuses, everything electrical, making sure all connections are good & tight and free from rust & corrosion. I believe you might have to reset breaker.

John Deere Model 170 Lawn Tractor Parts

Click to expand...

Thank you for your advise.

Model: John Deere 170
Serial #: Don't have at hand
Engine: Kawasaki 422cc 1-cyl gasoline
Numbers on Engine: Don't have on hand.

Fuses: I have checked these with multimeter. All in working order.

Checked as many electric connections as I could reach - all seem ok (many were not tested b/c I don't have a circuit diagram and don't exactly understand the layout of the system).
Basically, checked the seat safety switch and blade safety switch and solenoid - all seemed fine.

Circuit breaker: Haven't checked, don't know where it is and I thought only electric mowers had these?

The clutch switch is under the battery on the left side. The cover that is hiding the switch is the one in the photo that looks like a vent. Open up the hood and there are two bolts beside the battery that require a socket wrench. Unscrew those and take the cover off. If you press the clutch you will see a lever coming forward to press a button. This is the switch. Also this may be different with your 170 because i have a 175 and it is a hydrostatic not a gear drive.

Also there is the fuel cut off safety switch under the left rear fender next to the gas tank. You may have to lift up your fender deck to get to it.

delenca said:

Thank you for your advise.

Model: John Deere 170
Serial #: Don't have at hand
Engine: Kawasaki 422cc 1-cyl gasoline
Numbers on Engine: Don't have on hand.

Fuses: I have checked these with multimeter. All in working order.

Checked as many electric connections as I could reach - all seem ok (many were not tested b/c I don't have a circuit diagram and don't exactly understand the layout of the system).
Basically, checked the seat safety switch and blade safety switch and solenoid - all seemed fine.

Circuit breaker: Haven't checked, don't know where it is and I thought only electric mowers had these?

Click to expand...

There is a circuit breaker probably under hood at firewall behind dash:John Deere Model 170 Lawn Tractor Parts Let us know how it goes.

Thanks guys. I'll try to find those 2 safety switches again this weekend.
I also found this loose wire on the left side this weekend. Can't figure out where it would go to. Any ideas? It has to connect somewhere around there as the wire is not that long (and branches off from the pinkish one).

Thanks,
-Alex

I find that safety switches work with negative power not positive. Negative power turns off the engine. So to test the safety switches you need to disconnect them not jump them. A good way to burn out your coil is to put positive power to it.

delenca said:

Thanks guys. I'll try to find those 2 safety switches again this weekend.
I also found this loose wire on the left side this weekend. Can't figure out where it would go to. Any ideas? It has to connect somewhere around there as the wire is not that long (and branches off from the pinkish one).
<img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/john-deere-forum/23636-john-deere-170-wont-start-deere-lt170-loosewire-jpg"/>
Thanks,
-Alex

Click to expand...

That is the same on my 175. I have no idea what it goes to.

JD is best said:

That is the same on my 175. I have no idea what it goes to.

Click to expand...

Ahah, are you serious?! It's just disconnected as well? So weird.
I've tried to check if it's a ground but don't see any difference if it's grounded or not.

The damn service manual is pretty expensive (~$60-$100 depending on CD or paper) - I know that sometimes they go on ebay for <$20 but no luck right now. If anybody has an extra one that they don't need (paper or CD), let me know and I'll take it off your hands.

One of the very first thing you will need is a wiring diagram. Without it you are just guessing, its the road map for electrical repair. There are just too many makes and models with different color wires to work without a wiring diagram. I have been doing it for years and its the very first thing I start with. You might also want to isolate the engine and chassis so you will know if it is or isn't the module or coil. I have seen the coils go bad on that model Kawasaki engine. Replaced three of them this pass summer.

Problem fixed!!

Father-in-law came over with a battery recharger and all his automotive knowledge, experience and had the problem fixed in 5 minutes.

Basically, 2 problems:
1) Main problems: Battery terminals too corroded. I hadn't isolated this problem b/c of:
2) The clutch/brake safety switch was slightly off. It took a few jiggling/pushes on the clutch pedal to release the safety switch.
At that point we could sometimes crank engine using the battery charger but with obvious arc + sparks.

At that point, I took apart the + lead from my battery and cleaned it out with a toothbrush and baking soda. Got rid of all the gunk and put it back.

Charged the battery for good measure for a couple of hours using the loaner charger and then tried again: perfect start without hesitation.

Lucky it was such a simple problem. Wish I'd followed the advice I saw somewhere to look at the corrosion 1st but the clutch safety switch tricked me.

It is possible that a new clutch/brake safety switch lies in my near future sometime but for now the tractor is back in working order.

Thanks to everyone - I've learned a lot about my tractor even though I still don't have a good circuit diagram and/or repair manual!!

Cheers,
-Alex

The baking soda neutralized the acid that was present but it only cleaned enough to start a few times. The dark gray color we see on the battery posts is hard lead oxide and it needs to be cleaned off until the lead shines silver. Normal steel brushes won't do it but there are battery brushes made for that purpose that will. When the battery brush isn't available emery tape / sand paper will fill that void for both the battery posts and the cable end terminals of copper. I'm never without a sharp pocket knife ( I don't fly ) and use it more often than any of the above.

The loose wire is included in the harness for an optional oil pressure sensor. ignore it