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checked all the fuses and safety switches
ordered a new pto switch waiting on that
when i engage the pto it dies
when i take the break off it dies
is there a way to test the clutch
any help would be appricated

Clean PTO harness plug with CRC Electronic Cleaner & apply Silicone Dielectric Grease.

Safety circuits
Parking brake + seat so if you fall off the mower stops
Seat + PTO so you can not get off with the blades running and shove your hand in the discharge chute
Brake + lap bars so you can not drive away with the brake on.

Now look at your symptoms
What is common ?
The seat switch ( or the wiring to it )

JD make the absolute world best repair manual
Not only does it tell you ho to fix the mower, it also shows how to work out what is wrong where to test the mower and where the lest points are.
Worth every cent of the cover price which is about 1-2 hours of labour charge and a lot less than taxi fares to & from the physo after you broke your foot kicking the mower.

ok
so i replaced the seat switch
replaced the break switch
replaced the pto switch

is there a way to test the electronic pto without being hooked up

also my hour meter is off then will come back like its a low battery
does this have anything to do with it?

Okay lets check that there is 12v at the seat switch with the ignition in the run position. If present then look for the relay it controls and see if it is working. The lap bar switches also part of the kill circuit too and with 12v running though them the internal contacts tends to burn.

I don't have the wiring on this particular model but there is at least four versions depending on your serial number.

Also when you replaced the seat did you use the black housed one or the grey one? You would need to using the black one per the PN listed which is a normal open switch. The grey one is the normally closed version.

Also check the ground strap where it bolts onto one of the engine mounting bolts
They do come loose so will show 12.9 V untill a heavy load is applied like starting or turning the blades on.

StarTech said:

Okay lets check that there is 12v at the seat switch with the ignition in the run position. If present then look for the relay it controls and see if it is working. The lap bar switches also part of the kill circuit too and with 12v running though them the internal contacts tends to burn.

I don't have the wiring on this particular model but there is at least four versions depending on your serial number.

Also when you replaced the seat did you use the black housed one or the grey one? You would need to using the black one per the PN listed which is a normal open switch. The grey one is the normally closed version.

Click to expand...

No if I disconnect the switch and put the probes in I do not get 12v with the switch in the run position

Is there 12V from either terminal to frame ground?

StarTech said:

Is there 12V from either terminal to frame ground?

Click to expand...

No neither
I even went straight to the battery and nothing

Then seat switch and the rest that circuit isn't being powered.

Does anyone here have access the wiring schematics for this JD unit? I hate hate to buy a $150+ manual for a non customer support issue as I haven't seen this particular JD my shop yet.

StarTech said:

Then seat switch and the rest that circuit isn't being powered.

Does anyone here have access the wiring schematics for this JD unit? I hate hate to buy a $150+ manual for a non customer support issue as I haven't seen this particular JD my shop yet.

Click to expand...

i found this does this help at all

Sorry for the delay I had a busy afternoon is the shop and it is after dinner now. Going to bed after this post; it been a long day.

Okay provided this the right diagram. When the brake switch off (brake off) K2 receives 12v from SW1 [ignition switch] when the someone or something is on the seat switch [SW5]. The seat switch is the ground return for K2. When K2 is active and brake switch [SW4] is off the kill circuit is disabled. Otherwords either SW4 is not working correct, K2 is not working, or you have short to ground in the blue path. Note 605 wire don't count as it is grounded by the seat switch [SW5]. SW2 and SW3 only kills the engine if the brake [SW4] is set to park and they are pulled in from neutral.

With no voltage detected at the seat switch [SW5] it sounds like either the SW1 is bad or you have a bad electrical connection somewhere along the relay wiring path not allowing the K2 to receive the needed voltage.