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I need to remove the transaxle on a 4 weel steering JD tractor. Is there anything special I need to understand that is not obvious in dropping the transaxle?

I see a large snap ring on the inside of the rear steering knuckle. Do I need to remove them?

This is quite involved and you need a copy of the TM2308 Tech manual for the X304 machine. Especially if you haven't done this before as I haven't seen one these either. The manual will have pictures along with instructions.

But answer your question on the snap ring. No you don't remove it but you whole steering knuckle. Even this get quite involved as the fender pan and fuel tank has to be removed. Basically you will need plenty space as you will be half disassembling the mower.

StarTech said:

This is quite involved and you need a copy of the TM2308 Tech manual for the X304 machine. Especially if you haven't done this before as I haven't seen one these either. The manual will have pictures along with instructions.

But answer your question on the snap ring. No you don't remove it but you whole steering knuckle. Even this get quite involved as the fender pan and fuel tank has to be removed. Basically you will need plenty space as you will be half disassembling the mower.

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Thanks for the reference to the tech manual. I was reading on another tractor forum that someone found a short cut that avoided removing the fender etc. They removed the snap ring and was able to slide out the hub. It does not come out easy but he did it by leaving the wheel on and pulling it out. When he got it out he then had to remove one side of the u-joint. Remove the two king pins and it slides off of the output shaft. Then he was able to slide the transmission shaft off of the other side. I don't know how true this is for my X304. I thought it is worth mentioning in case someone here has direct experience and can comment.

The King pins have a Torque of 350 ft-lbs. Incredibly high torque!!! Does anyone know what size socket you need to fit them? the machine is not accecible to me right now and I want to make sure i have the correct impact socket.

My 3/4 " goes up to 400 ft lbs and the 1" goes up to 450 ft lbs
However both of those are well above the tensile strength of a 1/2 grade 9 bolt so I would double check that number
350 in-lbs sounds a bit more likely
Why inch & not foot ?
Because it implies a higher level of accuracy

From the service manual.

StarTech said:

From the service manual.
View attachment 60385

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Yes, thanks for saving me the time to post that from the manual. Bert has a point. It may be an error as that seem like a ridiculously high torque. The manual only says remove. It does not say how to.
Anyone know the socket size?

Considering the amount of torque it going to be either a M18 or M20 so the wrench size is most likely either 27mm or 30mm. Note: JD tends to use Metric fasteners. Any well stock shop should these sockets and wrenches. I am still working on my collection as I got to get a 22mm deep well impact socket. I also got to get a 46mm socket.

The amount of torque is really all that bad as I work the transaxles where axle nuts are at 300 ft lbs on tapers. And several ATVs I work on have 300 ft/lb + torques on axles.

on another post someone said it is 1 1/8".....could it be actually 29mm?

I called the local JD service department this morning and they have no idea what tool is needed either.

Well the only real way to find out is to get access the king pin bolt and use a caliper.

I did find this spec for the bolt.

So if it is a 1"- 12 or 14 bolt the head size is most likely 1-1/2".

StarTech said:

I called the local JD service department this morning and they have no idea what tool is needed either.

Well the only real way to find out is to get access the king pin bolt and use a caliper.

I did find this spec for the bolt.
View attachment 60391
So if it is a 1"- 12 or 14 bolt the head size is most likely 1-1/2".

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For a 1 inch bolt that is not that high of a torque. It did not seem to be that large as I recall seeing it. I was thinking more in the 16 to 19mm range or about 3/4". I will be at it tomorrow and will confirm its size at that time. It really looks like removig the king pins is required to remove the transaxle from the carrier. I can not find any other confirmed process to do it.

nbpt100 said:

For a 1 inch bolt that is not that high of a torque. It did not seem to be that large as I recall seeing it. I was thinking more in the 16 to 19mm range or about 3/4". I will be at it tomorrow and will confirm its size at that time. It really looks like removig the king pins is required to remove the transaxle from the carrier. I can not find any other confirmed process to do it.

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This is a picture of that king pin prt number that I found. It is not a conventional bolt. It may actually have a 1 1/8 or some close metric equivalent hex head.

I got the transaxle out of the machine and separated from the carrier. The king pin bolts came out with out much trouble using my impact. I used a 1 1/8 6 pt. impact socket. It fit very tight which is good, but I would bet it is a 28mm hex. My problem now is trying to remove the U-joints from the splined shaft on the old transaxle. They are rusted and frozen. I am soaking over night in penetrating oil. I have it verticle so that gravity will draw the oil through the spline. It will be tough to get off. There is no good way to hit it with a good blow. the approach is from a steep angle. It never is easy! Is it? I do not want to use my air hammer but may have to.

Tnx for the actual socket size info. I will note it in my copy of the service manual for future reference. It just might help someone else. If it was a very tight fit then the metric wrench size would mostly 29mm since 1.125" x 25.4 = 28.58mm

StarTech said:

Tnx for the actual socket size info. I will note it in my copy of the service manual for future reference. It just might help someone else. If it was a very tight fit then the metric wrench size would mostly 29mm since 1.125" x 25.4 = 28.58mm

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Of Course!!! my typo

The job is done and I will say it was not too bad except for the rusted frozen U-Joints on the transaxle's shafts. It took some time with heating and quenching plus a big hammer to get them off. The king pins spun right out with my impact. For not for the frozen U-joints you would only have to remove the king pins on one side to remove the transaxle from the carrier. Then you should be able to slide off the opposite u-joint leaving it assembled to the carrier.