How do you make front wheels to track on "non-adjustable" steering? Mechanically speaking there is no play/wear in steering assembly. Wheel spindles are welded in into the front axle making it non-serviceable one piece. Can't take it apart. What gives? Are the spindles or axle bent?
#2
reynoldston
Three adjustments, toe in, camber, and castor. Seeing its slow moving the only adjustment I would check is toe in or camber if you had a badly bent spindle. Now the non adjustable part. You must have bent steering linkage or spindles in which you will have to straighten or replace. You might need some heat or a press to straighten what ever is bent.
Only thing that is a little out of specs that I was able to find is the steering backlash that could use some adjustment. But this is unrelated to my problem. When two alignment marks are "looking" at each-other one wheel is toeing out about 1/2" and the other is even more then that. As if the two tie rods were too "long"...but they're not because they're an OEM, real tight and straight as an arrow! I've put a piece of flat stock on the flat side of the front axle and it's true as well. So the only other thing I can think of are the wheel spindles that got out of shape somehow? I think that I'm gonna go with the torch and a "persuader" idea...see what comes out of it? :thumbsup:
Appreciate your reply.
#4
BlazNT
Check the parts I circled in red and make sure they are all straight and not bent. I have seen them bent way more than once.
I know. It has to be it! I've took the whole front axle out to see if that middle bushing / pivot pint was out of square in relation to the axle...but it was good in both plains. The draw arm (upper part of the spindle) on both were pointing up a little. So I brought it back down to straight. Changed out all four wheel bearings just because...you know...stupid thing like that can set it off. Put it all back together into a tractor and it helped a little but still no cigar. It must be the angle relationship between the upper draw arm and the wheel shaft (the bottom part.) I either gonna disconnect both tie-rods from the spindle, do the proper alignment and wherever the tie-rod lands back on it I'm just gonna drill a new hole to mount them or put a torch to it and force it back to "normal"
BTW, thanks for your reply and just to verify it...align toe-in an about 1/8"...is that correct?
#6
BlazNT
1/8 is correct enough. I don't know the exact setting. Another thing you can try is cutting off the ends of the stearing bars and thread the end to accept a tie rod end. I have done it on parts no longer for sale. It works like a charm and is adjustable.
You know...this is not a bad idea!!! Thanks again...I'll look into it.
Ok. This tie-rod being non-adjustable is too thin to drill and tap a hole thru it to accommodate adjustable end. But this is what I'm gonna do: I'm gonna cut a piece of it out, right in the middle, thread the outside on both cut ends and use a turnbuckle of an appropriate size to connect both back together. This is gonna work like a dream!!! Thanks for pointing me right direction! :thumbsup:
My buddy's machine shop...HERE I COME!:smile:
#8
BlazNT
Just don't forget about an extra nut for locking it in place.
Steering DONE!!! Better then factory original! But...this STX38 has decided to pick a different battle with me! So, I've replaced all 3 primary drive idlers and a belt, now I get to the transmission (5-speed DANA brand forgot model#) belt pulley and primary input shaft and it wobbles! It's all hidden under battery plate that is welded into a frame. No access to the pulley at all so I'm thinking hole-saw 1 1/2" right thru it. All I need is a little room to get to the nut. Not so...that pulley is installed over input shaft friction fit style with a Woodruff key and a snap ring. A stinking snap-ring...can you imagine? It looks like I'm dropping and splitting a tranny today. Sucks to be me!!!
#10
BlazNT
Glad you got the steering fixed. Hope the case is not wobbled out. Keep us informed. If we can be any help with the rear end.
Engine: cleaned and blasted with air. Oil sump flushed out. Fresh oil and filter. Carburetor cleaned and adjusted. Throttle cable lubed and adjusted. Starter cleaned and lubed internally...$12.
Deck: blasted, d-greased, zinc coded and painted JD yellow. New spindle and double pulley bearings. New idlers and deck belts. New anti-scalp wheels...$80.
Wheels: new front bearings, steering adjustment and modification...$20
Transmission: drained and filled with 1/2 grease and 1/2 85W145...waiting for a primary pulley to arrive to finish it...$50
A day out on the Sun (65F in Chicago right now) after 3 months of Winter, six pack of beer, working on a 27 y/o tractor just because I had noting better to do and dirty finger nails at the end of the day...priceless!!!
You may be long gone from here, but thank you all the same. Misjudged a tight turn and slammed the left front tire into a phone pole, I'm sure something's bent and this diagram is going to help me this weekend.
You may be long gone from here, but thank you all the same. Misjudged a tight turn and slammed the left front tire into a phone pole, I'm sure something's bent and this diagram is going to help me this weekend.
