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Hi all. Okay, I had great success explaining the problems with my chainsaw and the recommendations for rectifying the problems which worked great. So, I'll see if I have luck with the problem with my lawn tractor.

As stated above, it's an LX277AWS John Deere lawn tractor. It was purchased brand new in 2000. Has been running great up 'til the last 2 seasons. If I'm operating it in forward, it works great. I can climb hills all day in the forward motion. But, as the transmission oil gets warmer and warmer it refuses to backup any incline. Again, forward works great; backward, will not climb a nole. I'm guessing that as the transmission oil heats up it's causing a blowby. Looking at the parts diagram on the JD website, it appears that there are 2 valves in the tranny that operate the forward and backward motion. How difficult is it to change those valves? Will there be any settings that I need to watch for? Although the forward valve seems to operating okay, I figure I'd change them both while I have everything torn apart. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Roger

Before you start disassembling the hydro, have you checked the condition of the drive belt? As the belt heats up it will expand and start slipping create the condition you are describing.

I nearly replaced my mower about 8 years ago for this very reason, replaced the belt and it ran like a champ. Now, 8 years later, I'm experiencing the same thing you are and when I checked the belt, sure enough it is about shot. I haven't replaced it yet but I'm confident that my performance will improve when I do.

Hand2ThePlow said:

Before you start disassembling the hydro, have you checked the condition of the drive belt? As the belt heats up it will expand and start slipping create the condition you are describing.

I nearly replaced my mower about 8 years ago for this very reason, replaced the belt and it ran like a champ. Now, 8 years later, I'm experiencing the same thing you are and when I checked the belt, sure enough it is about shot. I haven't replaced it yet but I'm confident that my performance will improve when I do.

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i agree-def go this route first

Hand2ThePlow said:

Before you start disassembling the hydro, have you checked the condition of the drive belt? As the belt heats up it will expand and start slipping create the condition you are describing.

I nearly replaced my mower about 8 years ago for this very reason, replaced the belt and it ran like a champ. Now, 8 years later, I'm experiencing the same thing you are and when I checked the belt, sure enough it is about shot. I haven't replaced it yet but I'm confident that my performance will improve when I do.

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I should have added to my original post that I did change the drive belt. It was shot but made no difference in the operation. Climbs great going forward, will not climb the slightest hill going backward. Thanks for the suggestion however. Roger

Roger2561 said:

Climbs great going forward, will not climb the slightest hill going backward. Roger

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Sounds like politicians spending our money :thumbdown: Spend it all - take more - never give any back !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hand2ThePlow said:

Before you start disassembling the hydro, have you checked the condition of the drive belt? As the belt heats up it will expand and start slipping create the condition you are describing.

I nearly replaced my mower about 8 years ago for this very reason, replaced the belt and it ran like a champ. Now, 8 years later, I'm experiencing the same thing you are and when I checked the belt, sure enough it is about shot. I haven't replaced it yet but I'm confident that my performance will improve when I do.

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I AGREE- CHANED MINE OUT FOR SAME PROB AT 9 YEARS---------GT245:thumbsup:

jimbo64 said:

I AGREE- CHANED MINE OUT FOR SAME PROB AT 9 YEARS---------GT245:thumbsup:

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Loss of power during mowing, independent of workload. Service rep suggested changing fuel line. Ethanol gas softens rubber parts and may cause collapse of the fuel line to motor = intermittent power loss. Fuel hose is sold by the foot and 6 ft will do for LX277. I confirmed issue by watching in-line fuel filter during operation and more air than fuel was in the filter. Repair was a pain... the rear body of the machine had to be removed to access the fuel line which enters at the top of the under-the-seat mounted gas tank. After seat, cruise control knob, pedals, and four bolts were removed I had access to the fuel hose routing path. 1 hours work. Also consider replacing fuel pump at, around $20, at this time. I have had no issue since this repair, but would consider spark plug/coil failure if issue persists. This is an inexpensive fix, while a pain, that demonstrates the headaches of ethanol fuel. Hope this helps someone? I was focused on bad gas/plug until the service rep shared this common issue with me.