JD L111 Won't Start

stonemind

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1. After replacing the battery, the fuse, the solenoid, the engine cranked, but won't start.

2. After removing the 2 plugs and using a charger to jump start by connecting the ground and the starter directly, the engine cranked, but won't start either.

In both cases, the choke and the lock were in proper places. The lights are on when the key is turned on.

What is the problem? My hunch is the "starter" is a non-starter.

I would be most grateful, if any person will provide any comments on my problems.

History and background: Last year, the engine, after some hesitation, nevertheless cranked and started to a running state. This year, the engine simply cranked with increasing struggles, then gave up altogether. I have a brand new charger.
 

kody1234

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1. After replacing the battery, the fuse, the solenoid, the engine cranked, but won't start.

2. After removing the 2 plugs and using a charger to jump start by connecting the ground and the starter directly, the engine cranked, but won't start either.

In both cases, the choke and the lock were in proper places. The lights are on when the key is turned on.

What is the problem? My hunch is the "starter" is a non-starter.

I would be most grateful, if any person will provide any comments on my problems.

History and background: Last year, the engine, after some hesitation, nevertheless cranked and started to a running state. This year, the engine simply cranked with increasing struggles, then gave up altogether. I have a brand new charger.

check to see if spark plugs is getting fire.
 
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After you check for spark squirt a lil gas in the carb then give it a try...... Carb might need to be rebuilt sitting all winter and you said it was a problem in the Fall before you put it up....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
 

bertsmobile1

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In place of guessing, which has already cost you over $ 100, diagnose first, buy parts second.

It could be nothing more than a loose plug.

Get a can of carb cleaner and an inline red neon spark tester.

Hook the tester to the plug and crank the engine, looking for the red flashes.
Double check all the controls by turning them on and off a few times.

If you get a flash then squirt some carb cleaner down the carb throat.
Engine fires = fuel supply problem

Engine does not start then repeat but down plug hole this time.
Engine fires a couple of times = valve problem

Red light flashes but engine does not start = ignition timing problem ( crankcase key )

No red flash, remove the thin wire to the coil and try again
no flash = duff coil.
check the coil wire for voltage . it is a ground wire and must never ever have any voltage on it.

get through this lot and get back to us with the results
 

stonemind

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In place of guessing, which has already cost you over $ 100, diagnose first, buy parts second.
...
If you get a flash then squirt some carb cleaner down the carb throat.
...

Hi, many thnaks first for your detailed instructions. I am going to Autozone today for the carb clean and spark tester as you recommended. But, excuse me for my ignorance--I do not know where the carburetor is located in the tractor. Can you posit me to the
spot?

This morning, I did another test. Once I put the plugs back, the crank became very weak. But, once I removed them, the crank became stronger. Any idea for such funny phenomenon?
 

stonemind

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After you check for spark squirt a lil gas in the carb then give it a try...... Carb might need to be rebuilt sitting all winter and you said it was a problem in the Fall before you put it up....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Hi, many thanks for your suggestion. You may have to excuse my ignorance--I do not know where the carburetor is located in my tractor. Any further instruction will be greatly appreciated.

For you information: This morning, I did another test. Once I put the plugs back, the crank became very weak. But, once I removed them, the crank became stronger. Any idea for such funny phenomenon?

Hopefully, this may help you diagnose the problems with my tractor..
 
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I was gona say this to start with but I was waiting on more input from you.........

Your valves need adjusting.... That's why the engine is sluggish at first........
 
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Do you a Briggs engine on there ?? Anyway your carb is in the middle of the engine in the front.....

Model and type of engine is very helpful to us and is located on the silver valve cover.........
 

bertsmobile1

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Hi, many thnaks first for your detailed instructions. I am going to Autozone today for the carb clean and spark tester as you recommended. But, excuse me for my ignorance--I do not know where the carburetor is located in the tractor. Can you posit me to the
spot?

This morning, I did another test. Once I put the plugs back, the crank became very weak. But, once I removed them, the crank became stronger. Any idea for such funny phenomenon?

To burn the fuel and extract power the charge ( air + fuel ) must be compressed.
Compressing a gas requires energy so the starter turns slower with the plugs in.
If it turns over a lot slower & struggles or stops every now & then you have a valve problem, usually the gap between the rockers and the valve is too big.

To run you need things
1) air & fuel in the right proportions ( approx 13 : 1 )
2) something to ignite the air fuel mixture at the right time
3) compression.

The carb is located between the air filter and the engine cylinder.
Carburettor = carb = carby ( unless you are French in which case the last 2 words do not exist )
 

stonemind

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...
The carb is located between the air filter and the engine cylinder.
...

Many thanks to all that have provided help. I finally located the carburettor. But, it is an undertaking beyond my ability to work on.

Therefore, in the name of advancing tratorship and brotherhood, may I ask any reference or volunteer to come by to teach me. I am located in 91748. I am ready to offer a charcoaled ribeye steak, plus a dutchoven-charcoaled cornbread and .... A Saturday is good.

This is my hearty invitation, as always,
 
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