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Hi all: So I acquired a turfcat 628d at auction last year to replace/augment my T422d- The one I've got is from earl 2000's and runs perfect but I do not like the rear discharge deck. My 422d has a much nicer 72" side discharge that I am planning to swap out with the RD deck (and I intend to convert that one into side discharge for the 422). The deck motor on the 628 has a 3rd hydraulic line that ties into a return line to the tank- I am guessing it is some sort of pressure relief line. The older deck motor has only two lines. I am planning to cap off the 3rd line at the tee and just hook up the two main hydraulic lines. Does anyone know why the newer deck motor has the third hydraulic connection and whether there is a good reason for it? Conversely when I go to hook up the 3 hose motor to the 422, can I just cap the relief line on the deck motor?

I found this:
Case Drain Ports
If more than two ports are present, one of the lines will most likely be a case drain line. All piston-type hydraulic motors are going to leak hydraulic fluid from the rotator group. This is a good type of leak: it is used to lubricate the piston shoes, the swash or thrust plate, and the area between the cylinder block and the valve plate. This hydraulic fluid must be returned to the hydraulic tank under minimal pressure. That is the purpose of the case drain line, which runs from the travel motor to the hydraulic tank. Note that this is a low pressure line and is where you will find the case drain filter, which we have discussed in other blog posts.

Note that if there are only three lines, the smallest one will most certainly be the case drain line. Some travel motors actually have two case drain ports present and they are interconnected, meaning that either one can be used. You always want to use the highest case drain port on the unit due to air circulation of the motor: if you don’t use the highest one, you will have cavitation in the motor because the air cannot escape. Cavitation is never a good thing.

Pic might help. Mine has 3 lines. One on each side, and one on the top.

Thank you northcreek. So does that mean that my 2 hose motor is a rotary type? I wonder which is better? Anyway I have now decided to convert my RD deck that came with the 628 to SD and leave it with on the 628. I have both decks side by side upside down to compare. It is a pretty easy conversion with some 3/16” plate. The 628 deck (RD) is shallower than the one on 422 so I hope it works as well. I will try to post pics when I am back in shop.

I'm assuming that there must be an advantage to the piston type as it surely must be more expensive with the extra hose and associated parts to go that way. When you do the deck conversion are you going to address the odd rotating blade ?

Yes I was told that the center blade counter rotates on RD deck but that is not the case with mine- all blades rotate same direction

I found some information here on vane/piston hydraulic motors: https://www.hydraulicspneumatics.co...M/Article/False/6427/TechZone-HydraulicPumpsM

I have a 72" SD high tunnel deck and I always wondered if a RD deck would be better, what don't you like about your RD deck?

With SD On the 422 I can blow everything away from pool and buildings and hook up my cyclone vac when needed. The two problems I have with the 422 is the lack of power and lack of traction- 2wd. I originally bought the 628 as a parts machine and was going to put the 1105 motor in the 422 but the 628 is much newer than 422 and rides like a Cadillac comparitively. The 628 2wd is worse in traction department than the 422. I would have to mow twice a week during growing season with 628 RD deck for clippings not to be a problem. Also RD blows everything into machine- particularly the traction brakes which were completed seized up non functioning when I got the 628. The good news is that they must have seized up early on and so look almost new- once I got drums off and blew everything out. I hope the SD conversion on the shallow deck doesn’t clog. I’ll let you know come spring

Thanks, I guess I will stay with my SD. I'm going to try mulching though. I have a set of Gator mulching blades and a discharge cover plate that I use for leaves in the fall. This year I want to see how it works for mowing but, I'm expecting it to be messy and choke at times....we'll see.

northcreeek262 said:

Thanks, I guess I will stay with my SD. I'm going to try mulching though. I have a set of Gator mulching blades and a discharge cover plate that I use for leaves in the fall. This year I want to see how it works for mowing but, I'm expecting it to be messy and choke at times....we'll see.

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Where did you find gator blades that fit the Jacobsen. I have the 72" SD deck.

helomech said:

Where did you find gator blades that fit the Jacobsen. I have the 72" SD deck.

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I bought them online, I can get the pt# if you want. The only difference is that they do not have the 5/8" dip down at the tips like the stock blades but that can be compensated for in the deck height adjustments.

northcreeek262 said:

I bought them online, I can get the pt# if you want. The only difference is that they do not have the 5/8" dip down at the tips like the stock blades but that can be compensated for in the deck height adjustments.

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If it isn't too much trouble, that would be great. If not I can try to search for it, just not sure what to search for. Are they as thick as the factory blades.

Never mind, I found them. But thanks.

helomech said:

Never mind, I found them. But thanks.

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I believe this is what I bought for my 72" deck https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-3-3...=item3fb62959b0:g:iFwAAOSw3bZcLwOM:rk:20:pf:0

northcreeek262 said:

I believe this is what I bought for my 72" deck https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-3-3...=item3fb62959b0:g:iFwAAOSw3bZcLwOM:rk:20:pf:0

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Awesome Thanks.

Blades are measured diagonally from cutting tip to cutting tip.
All of the after market suppliers have a list of blades by length.
Some are on line while others are only in their printed catalogue.
So you start with getting the length right, then look at the size & type of mounting holes then width & finally thickness
The final bit to consider is the shape.
Some blades are flat while others are cranked to protect the mounting bolts .

So a trip to a frelance mower repair shop would be worth your time.
Most will deal with all of the non genuine suppliers and will have all of their catalogues under the counter.

I run into this problem all the time because most of what was imported got rebadged using local brand names

bertsmobile1 said:

Blades are measured diagonally from cutting tip to cutting tip.
All of the after market suppliers have a list of blades by length.
Some are on line while others are only in their printed catalogue.
So you start with getting the length right, then look at the size & type of mounting holes then width & finally thickness
The final bit to consider is the shape.
Some blades are flat while others are cranked to protect the mounting bolts .

So a trip to a frelance mower repair shop would be worth your time.
Most will deal with all of the non genuine suppliers and will have all of their catalogues under the counter.

I run into this problem all the time because most of what was imported got rebadged using local brand names

Click to expand...

Cool thanks

First cutting today, it's been really wet this spring. I like the results using the Gator blades and block-off plate. I have had this set-up for a couple of years for Fall leaf mulching but, for some reason I always went back to standard blades and side discharge for mowing. I'm probably staying with the Gators year round now....Mike.