IS2100z engine stall sputters and eventually stalls when I switch to right tank.

I looked online out of curiosity after reading this thread from the beginning when it began. The parts diagram shows conventional hoses, clamps and a selector valve etc.. Also one that uses an elbow and a grommet. As for the shop vac, it sounds like you don't have access to a compressor. If that is the case, get yourself a battery powered compressor to fit whatever style batteries your cordless equipment uses, or get a small pony tank and fill it at the local gas station that has compressed air. Don't ever use a shop vac to suck on a fuel line or anything flammable. The results will be not a happy moment.

Also keep in mind that the tank breather line has to be clear or a tank cannot replenish air tor the fuel it is supplying.

full.png
 
No doubt what you are saying is true, but the neck of the fill hole extends down into the tank to create an air pocket at the top, I assume, and it obscures seeing anything. Fishing with a improvised hook wire would probably have gotten it. but then there is a fuel gauge thingy in there also. Just now realized I should have looked at removing the fuel gauge. It is directly over the deep part of the tank. Probably gives a clear shot at the pickup.

Maybe a duh moment here.
 
SGKENT took it that I vacuumed the tank out. Let me make one thing perfectly clear. I did not vacuum the tank out. I forced the fuel out by pressurizing the tank and forcing the fuel out the detached hose at the engine connection.
That forced the water fuel dirt, whatever, - - enough that whatever was left when diluted with fresh fuel, got me going.
 
I would try removing the fuel gauge, as you said. You may have gotten it going, but it's not necessarily fixed. Clogs at the fuel pickup have a tendency to come back, as the engine runs and draws crud into the pickup. This will also let you flush the tank line from tank to carb. The check valve in the pickup can also get sticky. I recently had this happen to me on a machine I use every couple of weeks. It would be fine, then maybe running lean, then shut off with fuel still in tank. Next time everything fine at first, then maybe act up again. After cleaning the screen on the pickup, and cleaning the check valve, it consistently runs right, and empties that tank. If you have a manual pump, it would be good to suck that tank dry, and maybe get rid of some crud down there.
 
I never expected to wind up with such good information when I first posted .Thanks to all for sharing your perspective on things. Hope it helped someone else as well. I am still kicking myself for not going in through the fuel gauge.

BTW way I used my son's mower for several months to mow his place while he was away, and his mower has no fuel gauges. I had no idea how much my fuel gauges helped to go about my business mowing with always instantly able to see my fuel situation. I found out that my son got by, just running it out and walking back to the house to get fuel. Sometimes he would just go on to something else and come back to mower later.
Explained why sometimes when I would drop by the mower was sitting out in the field somewhere.

I was thinking he had broken down.

I have always tried to avoid running a hard working engine out of fuel. Part of my training from doing cool down on turbos before turning off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top