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This summer my neighbors IS2000 61” z-turn started sputtering when it got up to running temperature, almost missing like a coil on one cylinder was intermittently missing, or the carb was dirtied up type of deal.
Eventually, the mower sputtered to a stop after a few more yard services. It has been sitting since. Once in a while while the mower cranks over it will spit, and act like it wants to start… then sometimes it will fire off, but as soon as you throttle it up a touch it dies. I have a pretty good backround with small engines and I cannot for the LIFE of me figure this 25hp Kawi/Ferris combo out. ANY INPUT IS APPRECIATED. I dont even care if you call me stupid cause i missed something, i would just like to get this thing going for him again.

What Ive Tried:

-Cleaned OEM Carb, it is spotless, and was very clean when it came apart as well. Re-installed, no change.
- Installed another Carb as well, still no change, in fact ran even worse with aftermarket ebay carb (no surprise there but for 30$ its worth a shot.)
- Replaced both coils with new OEM. No change.
- Compression test on both cylinders shows 120 psi.
- Replaced both plugs with new OEM NGK, no change.
- New Air filter, also cleaned out air filter housing.
- Pulled valve covers, cranked engine over, inspected that all valves/push rods are working properly/ not damaged. All checked out ok.
- Replaced vacuum actuated fuel pump, also verified that during cranking the pump is sending fuel to the top of the carb, all good there.
- Tested all relays/ fuses, all check out.
-Removed both fuel tank caps as to maybe there is an airlock situation going on, nothing.
- New fuel in tanks.

Im going to be leaning towards electrical since ive pretty much thrown everything at this thing. Going to start inspecting wiring harness connections one by one this week. Any hints/tips are helpful.

Dump fuel tank/s and flush out well. Blow out with compressed air. Shake and listen for dirt blocks or grass piles in the tank, crap that shouldn't be there. Install new fuel lines and filter to carb.

Pull fuel line AT carb. Should drain from tank into a glass jar till said jar is full. Should be a nice and steady flow. If not you have a fuel delivery issue.

Without knowing more, sputtering to me is a needle and seat issue. Or lack of fuel getting into the carb.

If the carb has a fuel stop solenoid on the carb, that could be the problem. When you turn the key to the run position you should feel it pop and or hear it click. If it does neither would remove it and test to see if the plunger is moving properly. If it doesn’t move when you apply 12VDC to it after cleaning, it is bad.

slomo said:

Dump fuel tank/s and flush out well. Blow out with compressed air. Shake and listen for dirt blocks or grass piles in the tank, crap that shouldn't be there. Install new fuel lines and filter to carb.

Pull fuel line AT carb. Should drain from tank into a glass jar till said jar is full. Should be a nice and steady flow. If not you have a fuel delivery issue.

Without knowing more, sputtering to me is a needle and seat issue. Or lack of fuel getting into the carb

Click to expand...

cool ill try the tanks next, thats what i was thinking, i changed the fuel filter as well forgot to mention that.

Rivets said:

If the carb has a fuel stop solenoid on the carb, that could be the problem. When you turn the key to the run position you should feel it pop and or hear it click. If it does neither would remove it and test to see if the plunger is moving properly. If it doesn’t move when you apply 12VDC to it after cleaning, it is bad.

Click to expand...

Shut off solenoid works, it clicks when 12v is applied

You have fallen into the fix first-diagnose latter trap that so may get caught in .
So you need to start by breaking up the individual sections to see where the failure is .
Easy way to start is to pull the kill wires off the magnetos .
As you have confirmed the fuel solenoid works it is safe to mow without the kill wires ONLY FOR THE PURPOSE OF DIAGNOSTICS .
Sorry for shouting but it is important not to permanently dissable the shut down system
If the problem goes away then there are gremlins in the wiring .
If the problem does not go away then get a substitute fuel tank and hook it up directly to the carb as a gravity feed .
Problem goes away then you have a fuel supply problem
Problem remains then either the carb is bad , one or both magnetos are bad , the solenoid is bad or the wiring to the solenoid is bad .
I am off for a week or two tonight / tomorrow night so will not be around to walk you through more specific diagnostics but if you do as requested and post the results then there are plenty of people here who can walk you through pin pointing your problems

bertsmobile1 said:

You have fallen into the fix first-diagnose latter trap that so may get caught in .
So you need to start by breaking up the individual sections to see where the failure is .
Easy way to start is to pull the kill wires off the magnetos .
As you have confirmed the fuel solenoid works it is safe to mow without the kill wires ONLY FOR THE PURPOSE OF DIAGNOSTICS .
Sorry for shouting but it is important not to permanently dissable the shut down system
If the problem goes away then there are gremlins in the wiring .
If the problem does not go away then get a substitute fuel tank and hook it up directly to the carb as a gravity feed .
Problem goes away then you have a fuel supply problem
Problem remains then either the carb is bad , one or both magnetos are bad , the solenoid is bad or the wiring to the solenoid is bad .
I am off for a week or two tonight / tomorrow night so will not be around to walk you through more specific diagnostics but if you do as requested and post the results then there are plenty of people here who can walk you through pin pointing your problems

Click to expand...

Appreciate the help. I have tomorrow off so going to pull the kill wires then. Exactly which wires are the “kill” wires….?

When you removee the blower housing there will be a single wire that goes to each magneto.
That is the kill wire.
It goes to ground to kill the coils & stop the engine .
While the housing is off give the cooling fins a bit of a clean
The engine manual is a free download from Kawasaki
Parts & owners manuals are free downloads from Ferris
Wiring diagram ( actually good ones ) are at the back of the parts manuals

Most ferris mowers have dual top draw tanks and a tank selector valve. They are prone to crud in the tanks getting stuck in the elbow at the top of the tank and the fuel selector valve. I would pull the lines from the tanks and blow them out and the selector valve and all of the lines. If you blow out any crud/grass you need to remove and clean the tanks.

Yup, and bigger the cap opening the more crud gets into the tank/s.

I had same symptoms on is2100 when still under warranty. The dealership replaced the complete wiring assembly to resolve.