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Is There A Fix for This?

#1

Berniebac

Berniebac

I have a Briggs 14.5 HP, Model 287707, Type 0224-01, Code 970117ZD. The engine had a drain tube installed that extended the drain for the motor oil out past the frame of the tractor. I went to change the oil in the engine and when I turned the cap on the drain tube, the tube turned sideways and broke free from the engine. I do not see this drain tube on the illustrated parts list, so I wonder if it was added to the engine for convenience of draining the oil. My parts list also does not show a drain plug where the drain tube goes into the side of the engine.

Is there a repair for this break? I do have threads that continue into the engine so I might be able to thread the tube further into the existing threads, but I think the housing where the oil comes out of the engine will prevent it. Is there a drain plug made that I might possibly be able to thread, into the threads, that remain inside the housing?

Is it the type of repair that J B Weld might be used?

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#2

Ronno6

Ronno6

I believe that is a pipe thread, 1/4" or 1/8" npt.
You might get a plumber or machine shop to thread you a nipple a but smaller than normal so as to be able to thread it in
deeper to the good threads.
As it is not a highly stressed joint, JB weld, used in addition to the above might do it for you.
Make sure you get all the oil off the block, or the JB won't stick.
The joint may suffer from engine vibration, so engaging the deeper threads would help.

You may also tap the tapered hole a bit deeper as well, but you must be careful not to fracture the block.


#3

Boobala

Boobala

Berniebac said:
I have a Briggs 14.5 HP, Model 287707, Type 0224-01, Code 970117ZD. The engine had a drain tube installed that extended the drain for the motor oil out past the frame of the tractor. I went to change the oil in the engine and when I turned the cap on the drain tube, the tube turned sideways and broke free from the engine. I do not see this drain tube on the illustrated parts list, so I wonder if it was added to the engine for convenience of draining the oil. My parts list also does not show a drain plug where the drain tube goes into the side of the engine.

Is there a repair for this break? I do have threads that continue into the engine so I might be able to thread the tube further into the existing threads, but I think the housing where the oil comes out of the engine will prevent it. Is there a drain plug made that I might possibly be able to thread, into the threads, that remain inside the housing?

Is it the type of repair that J B Weld might be used?
Click to expand...

Seen this a few times, that's what happens when you DON'T use a "backing-wrench" ( I use a 6 inch, "pipe-wrench" ) on the nipple when removing or installing the end-cap, it looks as if there are enough threads to put in another nipple, things must be CLEAN, do not OVERTIGHTEN, could put a small amount of RTV sealant on threads (NOT near the starting end though) once nipple is in snug, wrap it with some masking tape so you don't get it on the nipple, then apply your J-B weld or Aluminum putty, peel off the tape as the putty is beginning to firm.


#4

Boobala

Boobala

Forgot,...... the drain-plug, nipple, and cap is regular pipe thread, therefore, available at MOST hardware stores take the broken piece with you to size it up.


#5

I

ILENGINE

Ronno6 said:
I believe that is a pipe thread, 1/4" or 1/8" npt.
You might get a plumber or machine shop to thread you a nipple a but smaller than normal so as to be able to thread it in
deeper to the good threads.
As it is not a highly stressed joint, JB weld, used in addition to the above might do it for you.
Make sure you get all the oil off the block, or the JB won't stick.
The joint may suffer from engine vibration, so engaging the deeper threads would help.

You may also tap the tapered hole a bit deeper as well, but you must be careful not to fracture the block.
Click to expand...

I was thinking 3/8 NPT


#6

Ronno6

Ronno6

Boobala said:
Forgot,...... the drain-plug, nipple, and cap is regular pipe thread, therefore, available at MOST hardware stores take the broken piece with you to size it up.
Click to expand...

Methinks that the nipple is OK, once you remove the broken piece of casting.
It would help if the threads were turned down a bit,tho............


#7

Berniebac

Berniebac

Yes the nipple is fine. It is just that it broke the aluminum out of the engine block.

As suggested above, having a longer threaded end on the nipple might be all that is needed to get it to go into the housing a little further.

I did use a set of vice grips on the pipe when turning the cap off but it sure seemed like it broke away from the housing very easily.

I appreciate your suggestions and I think I will try a combination of a little longer threaded nipple and some JB Weld to put the broken piece back on. I can't see any moving parts inside the engine that would be affected by having the nipple thread into the housing a little deeper.

That nipple is 1/2" inside diameter and I know a shop that threads them so they might be able to help me out by extending the threads.

Thanks so much for your help.


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Get a bayont type valve for the end of the drain tube.
They are a std after market part fitted by a lot of mower makers.


#9

cpurvis

cpurvis

In picture #5, you can see a passage that may be blocked by a threaded pipe which extends further into the engine.

If the engine has access to use a vacuum oil extractor, I'd put a brass plug into that damaged hole and never take it out again.


#10

Berniebac

Berniebac

bertsmobile1 said:
Get a bayont type valve for the end of the drain tube.
They are a std after market part fitted by a lot of mower makers.
Click to expand...


Do you mean "bayonet" valve? Just wanted to make sure I search for the correct thing.


#11

Berniebac

Berniebac

cpurvis said:
In picture #5, you can see a passage that may be blocked by a threaded pipe which extends further into the engine.

If the engine has access to use a vacuum oil extractor, I'd put a brass plug into that damaged hole and never take it out again.
Click to expand...

I suppose I could pull the old oil up the filler tube, but other than that I do not know of a way to access the crankcase. Kinda like the idea of just plugging that hole.


#12

Ronno6

Ronno6

Berniebac said:
Yes the nipple is fine. It is just that it broke the aluminum out of the engine block.

As suggested above, having a longer threaded end on the nipple might be all that is needed to get it to go into the housing a little further.

I did use a set of vice grips on the pipe when turning the cap off but it sure seemed like it broke away from the housing very easily.

I appreciate your suggestions and I think I will try a combination of a little longer threaded nipple and some JB Weld to put the broken piece back on. I can't see any moving parts inside the engine that would be affected by having the nipple thread into the housing a little deeper.

That nipple is 1/2" inside diameter and I know a shop that threads them so they might be able to help me out by extending the threads.

Thanks so much for your help.
Click to expand...

Longer threads is not really the fix, but rather, a tad smaller on the diameter. (the threads may need to be longer as well,tho.)
The tapped hole and threaded nipple are tapered, so you either need to make the hole a bit larger (not my first choice) or
make the threads on the nipple a bit smaller.

As for breaking off easily, it is possible that the nipple had been screwed int the block too far, and the tapered thread weakened or cracked the casting.

Good luck!


#13

Berniebac

Berniebac

Ronno6 said:
Longer threads is not really the fix, but rather, a tad smaller on the diameter. (the threads may need to be longer as well,tho.)
The tapped hole and threaded nipple are tapered, so you either need to make the hole a bit larger (not my first choice) or
make the threads on the nipple a bit smaller.

As for breaking off easily, it is possible that the nipple had been screwed int the block too far, and the tapered thread weakened or cracked the casting.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Yes I see what you are saying with the tapered threads. They will not thread further into the fitting because they come up against the outer part of the housing first. I think it will be JB weld and a new brass fitting. I think I will try a brass fitting that I can solder a copper pipe onto and put the bayonet valve on the end as mentioned above. Then it will be just open the valve and drain away.


#14

cpurvis

cpurvis

Keep in mind that the bottom of the now-broken drain tube determined how much of the oil will be left in the crankcase. If you add a tube to a plug, now the bottom of the tube determines how much oil is left.

Admittedly, this may be a small amount of oil but the more of the old oil you get out, the better.

I was reluctant about using vacuum oil extractors. In this case, I'd bet that the extractor will get more of the oil out. I have one vehicle that I know the extractor gets more oil out than draining and one that gets at least as much as draining. Plus, there's no drain pan needed. I would guess the oil filler tube on your engine would work for this.


#15

O

One1

Dremel has a carbon weave cutoff wheel that would even out the ends of that thread back to flat by slicing off the broken section sticking out. It cuts that chinese aluminum pot metal pretty cleanly.


#16

Berniebac

Berniebac

I decided to use the JB Weld and I found a plug from a 311700 16 HP motor that fits in the drain hole. The threads in the housing are tapered to match the threads in the original nipple and the plug that I found also has tapered threads so it fits in nice and tight.

When I tried a brass plumbing fitting it would only go into the housing a couple turns, then it would hit the tapered threads and stop so it did not seem to be a very tight connection. I don't trust it to stand up to much vibration or the chance that it could be bumped and pop out of place, so I think the drain plug is the better solution. I will have to make or pick up one of those drain sleeves to get the oil to drain out beyond the frame of the tractor.

Now to get the engine back in the tractor. At least I can change my drive belt while I am at it.

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