I could not figure out from the other posts whether my jammed-on Lawn-Boy 5024 blade collar is threaded onto the engine shaft or is pressed on. Some say to use a puller to remove it and other show it being tapped off as if threaded on. I had no luck with a puller and heat. All I want to do is replace the lower seal. Thanks. Mark Kinsler kinsler33@gmail.com Lancaster, Ohio USA.
Is the Lawn Boy 5024 blade collar threaded?
- Thread starter kinsler33
- Start date
Thank you. The mower would run only intermittently, and I suspected an air leak. After elaborately sealing the carburetor I thought I'd look at the crankshaft seals. Behold, the top one had blown out completely, but the bottom one remains inaccessible. If I can get the blade flange un-bent I may make an executive decision to leave it alone and just put the top seal back in place.
Mark Kinsler
Mark Kinsler
tom3
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Sort of like removing a tie rod or ball joint. Whack the adapter on the side of the collar with a hammer and drift while 'bucking' it on the opposite side. The compression will pop it loose.
Thanks. I was afraid for what I assume is a delicate magnesium mower deck. It wasn't clear how the long pipe and hammer was supposed to work, for it looked like Mr BogdaN was trying to unscrew it.
In any event, nothing worked, including a three-jaw puller that merely served to bend the plate. And so, armed with my propane torch and a wood-handled monkey wrench my father was given around 1925 I heated the plate, bent it to what might have been its original shape, let it cool and re-mounted the blade and stiffener. In the hope that the bottom seal is okay I shall deal with it another day.
The top seal, however, had blown completely out of the magneto mounting plate and was hanging on the shaft when I took the cover off. Everything was soaked with oil, including the electronic ignition module I finally purchased after horsing with the points for a year. Cleaned everything out with carb cleaner, pushed the seal back in (rubber was fine) and secured it with green penetrating threadlocker plus a hearty application of Dap Rapid Fuse, a terrifying variant on cyanoacrylate glue.
I haven't tried starting the venerable machine just yet.
Mark Kinsler
In any event, nothing worked, including a three-jaw puller that merely served to bend the plate. And so, armed with my propane torch and a wood-handled monkey wrench my father was given around 1925 I heated the plate, bent it to what might have been its original shape, let it cool and re-mounted the blade and stiffener. In the hope that the bottom seal is okay I shall deal with it another day.
The top seal, however, had blown completely out of the magneto mounting plate and was hanging on the shaft when I took the cover off. Everything was soaked with oil, including the electronic ignition module I finally purchased after horsing with the points for a year. Cleaned everything out with carb cleaner, pushed the seal back in (rubber was fine) and secured it with green penetrating threadlocker plus a hearty application of Dap Rapid Fuse, a terrifying variant on cyanoacrylate glue.
I haven't tried starting the venerable machine just yet.
Mark Kinsler
Well, that didn't work. Reseating the top seal didn't do a thing, and the mower only runs on the ether starting fluid I'm able to squirt into its air intake. I think I'm out of ideas, but I like this mower a lot. Clearly it's not getting fuel.
Some facts: The entire governor and spark advance have been removed because part of the governor mechanism demolished itself some years ago. I wired the throttle open and it's run fine that way, and I apologize for doing that.
When it began to fail last year I trouble-shot everything for weeks, discovering among other things that the ignition points had stopped conducting electric current due to rust between the moving arm and the contact that's riveted into it. I finally decided to try an electronic module,which has worked splendidly except that it increases gas consumption.
I tried to adapt a throttle control, but that's not nearly as straightforward as I'd like and research continues. Meanwhile I have the throttle just wired open. It ran okay like that for a while, and then failed again. Fuel delivery is the problem.
It has a new float and needle and seat, and I've polished and re-set everything. I noticed that it would sometimes revive when the intake was partially blocked, and I was able to get it to run by madly pumping the primer plunger. Now that doesn't work, either.
Searching for an air leak, I carefully sealed the carburetor to the reed plate and the reed plate to the crank case. Are the weird-looking passages beneath the reed-plate-to-crankcase gasket critical? I may have filled them with gasket sealer.
Yesterday I found that the top crankshaft seal had become unseated, so I shoved it back in and (I hope) glued it securely into place. I was unable to get to the bottom seal because I can't pull the blade stabilizer thing off without bending it. So I re-assembled everything and here I am. There is spark, it runs fine on ether spray, and the fuel primer pump is in poor shape despite my attempts to repair it.
Any and all advice will be appreciated.
Mark Kinsler
Some facts: The entire governor and spark advance have been removed because part of the governor mechanism demolished itself some years ago. I wired the throttle open and it's run fine that way, and I apologize for doing that.
When it began to fail last year I trouble-shot everything for weeks, discovering among other things that the ignition points had stopped conducting electric current due to rust between the moving arm and the contact that's riveted into it. I finally decided to try an electronic module,which has worked splendidly except that it increases gas consumption.
I tried to adapt a throttle control, but that's not nearly as straightforward as I'd like and research continues. Meanwhile I have the throttle just wired open. It ran okay like that for a while, and then failed again. Fuel delivery is the problem.
It has a new float and needle and seat, and I've polished and re-set everything. I noticed that it would sometimes revive when the intake was partially blocked, and I was able to get it to run by madly pumping the primer plunger. Now that doesn't work, either.
Searching for an air leak, I carefully sealed the carburetor to the reed plate and the reed plate to the crank case. Are the weird-looking passages beneath the reed-plate-to-crankcase gasket critical? I may have filled them with gasket sealer.
Yesterday I found that the top crankshaft seal had become unseated, so I shoved it back in and (I hope) glued it securely into place. I was unable to get to the bottom seal because I can't pull the blade stabilizer thing off without bending it. So I re-assembled everything and here I am. There is spark, it runs fine on ether spray, and the fuel primer pump is in poor shape despite my attempts to repair it.
Any and all advice will be appreciated.
Mark Kinsler
FuzzyDriver
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- May 7, 2016
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You have to get that blade collar off. While it is on you can't clean the exhaust ports or muffler. Twice (different mowers) I broke the welds removing the blade collar from shafts using a pulley puller. These collars are not that expensive. You can find used ones and new ones easily online. After than experience, I figured that these things automatically jam on, but that is not the case. They get jammed on when people use impact drivers to install blades. I have found that they do not jam on if you clean the shaft and use anti-sieze between the collar and shaft. But the most important part of that is to torque the nut properly: 50 ft-lb The last time I removed the blade (to sharpen it) after I had installed it properly, the blade collar FELL OFF. Talk about a grinning happy surprise!
Thank you. After much labor, It's off, albeit in poor condition. How do you get to the bottom seal?