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Intek 18 hp OHV- #31E777 0443 E1. Loud popping at higher RPM, under load, or hitting bumps(roots, etc.) Video under 1st Reply. Thanks for any input.

#1

Klyonh

Klyonh

Have Craftsman LT1000 with 18 hp OHV engine. Just installed new carb and adjusted, replaced the armature, wire, and plug, new fuel lines, filter, and fuel, and adjusted the valves. Still it pops at times of high RPM, turning sharply, heavy load, going up steap slope with blades engaged, or when hitting bumps like roots, etc. When it happes it seems to be every stroke and coming from exhaust. Engine #31E777 0443 E1. Any advice or ideas. I have video.


#2

Klyonh

Klyonh

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0OEB3DqPpWSJXwBdRZxu32H8g


#3

Fish

Fish

Drain the water out of your carburetor!


#4

Klyonh

Klyonh

Carb is new. New gas and fuel lines too.


#5

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Do you have good fuel flow out of the lines?
Did you clean out the gas tank?


#6

Klyonh

Klyonh

yes and yes. Does that sound like not getting enough fuel?


#7

S

slomo

Turn the choke on and turn the wheel to the right. Try to make it sputter with the choke on.

slomo


#8

Fish

Fish

Loosen the nut on the bottom of the carb, let some fuel dribble out a bit, then try to run it and see if anything changes.


#9

Klyonh

Klyonh

slomo said:
Turn the choke on and turn the wheel to the right. Try to make it sputter with the choke on.

slomo


I thought it was automatic choke. How exactly do you manually turn it on. And what does turning wheel to the right have to do with anything? (Dont have much experience with small engine, sorry)
Click to expand...
9E23D4C1-CDD0-4E45-BD88-73117E5175DE.jpeg


#10

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
Loosen the nut on the bottom of the carb, let some fuel dribble out a bit, then try to run it and see if anything changes.
Click to expand...

What nut? Take the fuel shut off valve out?
D93CD93C-3EBB-40C5-B4A5-C454BA394FC0.jpeg


#11

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Klyonh said:
What nut? Take the fuel shut off valve out?
View attachment 53699
Click to expand...
You'll need what looks like a 1/2" wrench, and screw that out using the two flats just under the carb bowl on the upper part of the valve.


#12

Fish

Fish

Yeah, the solenoid acts as the nut. Just take a 1/2 inch wrench an loosen it slightly, the just unscrew it a bit. Try and catch what dribbles out to look at it, that water can be a pain to fully get out of the system, but it does sink and sit in the bottom of things. Which is why it acts up when turning sharply, bouncing, etc., then a tiny bit of water sloshes up into the engine.


#13

Fish

Fish

You may have to get a cheapo wrench and grind it a little thinner to get on the flat surfaces of the solenoid.


#14

Fish

Fish

just unplug the wires before turning the solenoid.


#15

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
just unplug the wires before turning the solenoid.
Click to expand...

Will do tomorrow, Thanks.


#16

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
just unplug the wires before turning the solenoid.
Click to expand...


The only thing I wonder is why does it do it every time I throttle all the way up also? But doesnt stop until I throttle back down?


#17

Klyonh

Klyonh

Klyonh said:
The only thing I wonder is why does it do it every time I throttle all the way up also? But doesnt stop until I throttle back down?
Click to expand...


I cant run at full throttle.


#18

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
just unplug the wires before turning the solenoid.
Click to expand...

Tried it and it still does it. Noticed small crack in upper gas tank though during the process and ordered a new one. But did what you said and it still pops like in the video at higher rpm and going up hill with blades engaged.


#19

Fish

Fish

New air filter?


#20

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
New air filter?
Click to expand...

Yes with new carb.


#21

Fish

Fish

Take off your valve cover and check your valve clearances with the engine cold, then rotate the flywheel while watching the valves move up and down, watch for the rocker arms to both move @ the same distance of travel, sometimes the cam lobes can get badly worn down.


#22

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
Take off your valve cover and check your valve clearances with the engine cold, then rotate the flywheel while watching the valves move up and down, watch for the rocker arms to both move @ the same distance of travel, sometimes the cam lobes can get badly worn down.
Click to expand...

Will do again when I am off work Wednesday, but as I recall when I adjusted the valves I rotated to get to top dead center and they both moved good. I will measure their travel this time and recheck the adjustments. I might have left clearance on exhaust valve a little too tight based off some videos I see on Youtube. Thank you for helping. After all this if not fixed guess I will just do a complete tear down to see what's going on. Hoping not the cam lobes to be honest.


#23

Fish

Fish

You don't want to set them a little tight, as when the valve gets hot and expands, it will be longer, and the valve will stop sealing, and may be the problem. Also checking the amount of travel is always a good thing, as Briggs had a problem with some of their cams.


#24

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
You don't want to set them a little tight, as when the valve gets hot and expands, it will be longer, and the valve will stop sealing, and may be the problem. Also checking the amount of travel is always a good thing, as Briggs had a problem with some of their cams.
Click to expand...

Will do thank you. And I truly appreciate your help. Need to get this going badly without torpedoing the engine.


#25

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fish said:
You don't want to set them a little tight, as when the valve gets hot and expands, it will be longer, and the valve will stop sealing, and may be the problem. Also checking the amount of travel is always a good thing, as Briggs had a problem with some of their cams.
Click to expand...

Found my problem. Exhaust valve not completely seated. Slow leaks down when chamber filled with Chem-Dip. Will get a valve lapping tool today. Get valves all cleaned up. Inspect for any damage to seat which I dont see any right now. Reseat the valves and recheck. So far nothing appears out of wack except the slow leak down.

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#26

Klyonh

Klyonh

Pretty nasty black in here though.

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#27

T

Tinkerer200

Fish is old school like me, nut on some, solenoid on others, same thing and I agree, sounds like water in fuel system. Don't confuse people, that does not have an automatic choke, it has a manually activated choke engaged by the final movement of the throttle control.
Walt Conner


#28

Klyonh

Klyonh

Tinkerer200 said:
Fish is old school like me, nut on some, solenoid on others, same thing and I agree, sounds like water in fuel system. Don't confuse people, that does not have an automatic choke, it has a manually activated choke engaged by the final movement of the throttle control.
Walt Conner
Click to expand...

New fuel tank, lines, filter, carb, and carb drained. Still did it. Yes I understand about the choke. Thank you for the help. I think after decarbing and reseating the valves it will be good as new. Lot of crap around intake valve and some carb on top end just around the exhaust valves seal. Can that be changed? My kit came with seal for the intake valve but not for the exhaust valve. Hmm...


#29

B

bertsmobile1

The valve guides are the same length & set the same depth into the head
Check them before doing too much as one may have shifted


#30

Klyonh

Klyonh

bertsmobile1 said:
The valve guides are the same length & set the same depth into the head
Check them before doing too much as one may have shifted
Click to expand...

Mine look completely different from exhaust to intake. Here, take a look.

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#31

Klyonh

Klyonh

bertsmobile1 said:
The valve guides are the same length & set the same depth into the head
Check them before doing too much as one may have shifted
Click to expand...

Do both intake and exhaust side have seals? Like you see in my pic before, only intake side has seal and kit only came with one.


#32

Mower King

Mower King

Klyonh said:
Do both intake and exhaust side have seals? Like you see in my pic before, only intake side has seal and kit only came with one.
Click to expand...
Most only have 1 seal...that is the std in the industry but, their not needed on either valve really, they get hard in no time and don't seal anyway....won't smoke any more or less. Mower engines can use a little oil, it's the nature of the beast, it doesn't make them junk......but killing mosquito smoke...better look into that problem though!


#33

Klyonh

Klyonh

After all my work, it still does it. Ugh! New carb, air filter, plug, amature with plug wire, head gasket, valves reseated, decarbed entire head, new gas tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, and oil changed.

Still it pops loudly when going up hill with blades engaged. Also, pops non stop when mowing along slight hill with mower leaning to the left. Black puffs of smoke from exhaust when it is popping.

NEED HELP!


#34

Klyonh

Klyonh

Can only get about 2400 RPM. After that it starts popping loudly through exhaust.


#35

Klyonh

Klyonh

Problem solved! Reed for crankcase breather couldn't open. Was off center and edge of cover was pinning it down. Unreal. Jeezaweez.

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#36

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Glad you got it figured out!!!! This may help someone in the future!


#37

Klyonh

Klyonh

That is just crazy.


#38

S

slomo

Klyonh said:
Pretty nasty black in here though.
Click to expand...
Can you enlarge those pics to something over 320x240 rez?

wlomo


#39

Klyonh

Klyonh

slomo said:
Can you enlarge those pics to something over 320x240 rez?

wlomo
Click to expand...

Most it would allow me to upload. Sorry.


#40

Klyonh

Klyonh

Fixed everything and still made no difference. Start doing same thing while mowing today. Will go 3400 RPM sitting in neutral with blades not spinning. Maximum 2500 or so moving with blades engaged. Any more and POW, POW, POW, POW with black puffs of smoke out exhaust. One odd thing was while adjusting carb unscrewed the idle screw all the way and wouldn't drop below 1900 RPM no matter where I set the mixture. Driving on hill with left side down and non-stop popping out exhaust with black puffs of smoke. No matter what I can not run wide open while cutting and moving. Just frustrating. I'm about to give up and just buy a new motor. This just sucks. Tons of work, time, and parts with no effective change. Also while adjusting the mixture could literally take screw clean out of the carb and it never effected how it was running. Screwing mixture inward would bog down at some point. But not when backing it out.


#41

Mower King

Mower King

Klyonh said:
Fixed everything and still made no difference. Start doing same thing while mowing today. Will go 3400 RPM sitting in neutral with blades not spinning. Maximum 2500 or so moving with blades engaged. Any more and POW, POW, POW, POW with black puffs of smoke out exhaust. One odd thing was while adjusting carb unscrewed the idle screw all the way and wouldn't drop below 1900 RPM no matter where I set the mixture. Driving on hill with left side down and non-stop popping out exhaust with black puffs of smoke. No matter what I can not run wide open while cutting and moving. Just frustrating. I'm about to give up and just buy a new motor. This just sucks. Tons of work, time, and parts with no effective change. Also while adjusting the mixture could literally take screw clean out of the carb and it never effected how it was running. Screwing mixture inward would bog down at some point. But not when backing it out.
Click to expand...
I guess you could, take it to a shop that does this kind of thing for a living.....just say'in


#42

Klyonh

Klyonh

And it would cost more than a new engine would cost. No thank you. Thanks, but in all honesty on some level I've been enjoying learning about my new used mower. I've taken cars down to the frame and back, rebuilt 4 bangers to V8's to putting an Evaporator in my 2013 Chevy Volt(toughest job I have ever tackled). But I've never really worked on small engines other than a mini-bike and a lawn boy that wouldn't die, both of which over 30 years ago.


#43

L

lefty2cox

Before you give up on her, did you check the flywheel key? I've been burnt by it before. I've seen partially sheared keys cause a multitude of problems, some logical, some not so much. Now I always check it first.


#44

cpurvis

cpurvis

In one post, you mentioned puffs of black smoke. That is indicative of a carburetor problem.

Why did you replace the carburetor and where did you get it? Did you save the OEM carburetor? I would be tempted to rebuild it or have someone rebuild it.


#45

Klyonh

Klyonh

lefty2cox said:
Before you give up on her, did you check the flywheel key? I've been burnt by it before. I've seen partially sheared keys cause a multitude of problems, some logical, some not so much. Now I always check it first.
Click to expand...

Just replaced it when I replaced the breather reed and tube.


#46

Klyonh

Klyonh

cpurvis said:
In one post, you mentioned puffs of black smoke. That is indicative of a carburetor problem.

Why did you replace the carburetor and where did you get it? Did you save the OEM carburetor? I would be tempted to rebuild it or have someone rebuild it.
Click to expand...

I am thinking you are right. I am going to buy another carb. This one just doesn't seem right. 1/2 the time when I buy something new it is bad, so I am going to buy another carb. Already got rid of the original, stupidly.


#47

L

lefty2cox

The video sounds like it's being choked, or at least similar to that sound. I have the same engine. This is the one with the push linkage that engages the choke above full throttle, not a separate choke cable? Is that choke return spring on the carb intact? Any way you can run it with the airbox elbow off briefly to see what the fuel system is up to when this occurs?


#48

S

slomo

I agree with the others above. Sounds like carb issues. Take air filter off and watch the carb linkage. Take your finger and adjust to 3400rpm. You said without the blades on it's fine. Under load is where you have the issue. So fuel delivery issue, fuel pump if you have one, dirty carb, stale fuel, water in the gas or faulty new carb. Was this an OEM carb or Chinese Ebay? Do you have strong blue spark? If your coil is weak, might run ok with no load. Then it might dog out under load. Black smoke is unburned or excess fuel.

slomo


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