I need an exploded view of a Stihl 024 chainsaw

hairyapple

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For the first time, as I can recall, since 1983 when I bought my 024 Stihl Saw, it was acting up. It seemed to be a carburetor problem, so I dismantled and cleaned the carb, actuating rod and trigger mechanism. I also added a new, in tank fuel line and cleaned the in tank filter. New spark plug too.

After a few yanks it came to life with one major problem, when I pull on the trigger it wants to die, let go of same and it revs up! Totally backwards?!

Here's what I know:
Carburetor can only go in one way, otherwise H/L screws and Idle screw would not line up with the holes in the shroud useed to access them. Niether would the gas intake or vacuum line.
The accelerator rod, a wildly bent up item, must pas beneath the air filter, it can only go in one way too.
I removed only the 2 cover plates on the carb, to wash out what I could see with carb cleaner. I did not take out the butterfly valve. The choke is incorporated in the air filter.
I cannot find any references to shop or parts manuals for Stihl on line. Seems they keep this information close to the vest and my owner's manual is no help.

If anyone one has an exploded view of this part of this saw I'd love to see it. Thanks for looking and for any help.

New to the forum as of today, I have, besides this 024 an MS362 saw, a Stihl FS66 weed wacker, a Stihl back pac blower, a Stihl Pole Saw/Pruner. I think that's everything.
 

hairyapple

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wow this is great!

Thanks, this is a great site! Nice clear illustrations that are easy to read. I assume the parts legend follows each diagram on the next page?

The bad news is I still don't see what I did wrong, I'm takin it to the dealer.
 

Fish

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No, you likely just need to go through the carb correctly...
 

Fish

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You need to replace that old fuel filter first, but go back into the carb, get a new carb kit. Dismantle it down to where you had it, but then remove the needle/lever/spring thingy, and you will likely find the passage beneath clogged all to hell from dirt and the remains of the old fuel filter, blow it out, hold the carb body up to a light and visually verify that the passage beneath the needle is clear, and re-assemble with a brand new kit. Also, your fuel lines are likely shot, as well as the impulse line, they are probably so gummy, that if you pinched one, it would stay stuck together for a while. Also, those old Stihl fuel filters had a foam insert, that started degrading and breaking apart after 30 years or so, that is why you want a new fuel filter. The crud from that collects above the screen like a wad of snuff.....
 

BlazNT

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Sorry I did not see your question. Just thought it was a comment. Yes page after the exploded view is part numbers.
 

hairyapple

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Sorry I did not see your question. Just thought it was a comment. Yes page after the exploded view is part numbers.

Thanks for your response and everyone's help, it's great to have a forum like this where like minded people can share ideas and knowledge. One of the best things about the internet, IMHO.
 

hairyapple

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You need to replace that old fuel filter first, but go back into the carb, get a new carb kit. Dismantle it down to where you had it, but then remove the needle/lever/spring thingy, and you will likely find the passage beneath clogged all to hell from dirt and the remains of the old fuel filter, blow it out, hold the carb body up to a light and visually verify that the passage beneath the needle is clear, and re-assemble with a brand new kit. Also, your fuel lines are likely shot, as well as the impulse line, they are probably so gummy, that if you pinched one, it would stay stuck together for a while. Also, those old Stihl fuel filters had a foam insert, that started degrading and breaking apart after 30 years or so, that is why you want a new fuel filter. The crud from that collects above the screen like a wad of snuff.....

Thanks, I did that. Replaced the impulse line, and actually cleaned the filter, no obvious signs of it deteriorating. Saw runs fine now just in the opposite direction that it should. Probably spent 5 hours altogether on the problem, I couldn't figure out what went wrong even with everyone's help. According to the exploded view everything is in it's correct position. Very weird, I'll report the findings after it's fixed.
 

Fish

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What are the high and low screws set at? It sounds like you are running way too lean. Take off the air filter and look in the carb throat, and look at the throttle plate. Is it closed? Does it open when you pull the trigger? If so, you either have a severely clogged carb, or a leaking seal, but I am still betting on the carb.
 

hairyapple

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What are the high and low screws set at? It sounds like you are running way too lean. Take off the air filter and look in the carb throat, and look at the throttle plate. Is it closed? Does it open when you pull the trigger? If so, you either have a severely clogged carb, or a leaking seal, but I am still betting on the carb.

The throttle plate closes when I pull the trigger, opens and revs when I let go. The H/L screws are at 1 1/2 turns out (counter clockwise) from fully closed, i will adjust as requires once this problem is solved. I always back off the screw a 1/4 turn or so from peak rpm, when adjusting, to avoid too lean a mixture.
 
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