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For the first time, as I can recall, since 1983 when I bought my 024 Stihl Saw, it was acting up. It seemed to be a carburetor problem, so I dismantled and cleaned the carb, actuating rod and trigger mechanism. I also added a new, in tank fuel line and cleaned the in tank filter. New spark plug too.

After a few yanks it came to life with one major problem, when I pull on the trigger it wants to die, let go of same and it revs up! Totally backwards?!

Here's what I know:
Carburetor can only go in one way, otherwise H/L screws and Idle screw would not line up with the holes in the shroud useed to access them. Niether would the gas intake or vacuum line.
The accelerator rod, a wildly bent up item, must pas beneath the air filter, it can only go in one way too.
I removed only the 2 cover plates on the carb, to wash out what I could see with carb cleaner. I did not take out the butterfly valve. The choke is incorporated in the air filter.
I cannot find any references to shop or parts manuals for Stihl on line. Seems they keep this information close to the vest and my owner's manual is no help.

If anyone one has an exploded view of this part of this saw I'd love to see it. Thanks for looking and for any help.

New to the forum as of today, I have, besides this 024 an MS362 saw, a Stihl FS66 weed wacker, a Stihl back pac blower, a Stihl Pole Saw/Pruner. I think that's everything.

wow this is great!

Thanks, this is a great site! Nice clear illustrations that are easy to read. I assume the parts legend follows each diagram on the next page?

The bad news is I still don't see what I did wrong, I'm takin it to the dealer.

No, you likely just need to go through the carb correctly...

You need to replace that old fuel filter first, but go back into the carb, get a new carb kit. Dismantle it down to where you had it, but then remove the needle/lever/spring thingy, and you will likely find the passage beneath clogged all to hell from dirt and the remains of the old fuel filter, blow it out, hold the carb body up to a light and visually verify that the passage beneath the needle is clear, and re-assemble with a brand new kit. Also, your fuel lines are likely shot, as well as the impulse line, they are probably so gummy, that if you pinched one, it would stay stuck together for a while. Also, those old Stihl fuel filters had a foam insert, that started degrading and breaking apart after 30 years or so, that is why you want a new fuel filter. The crud from that collects above the screen like a wad of snuff.....

Sorry I did not see your question. Just thought it was a comment. Yes page after the exploded view is part numbers.

BlazNT said:

Sorry I did not see your question. Just thought it was a comment. Yes page after the exploded view is part numbers.

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Thanks for your response and everyone's help, it's great to have a forum like this where like minded people can share ideas and knowledge. One of the best things about the internet, IMHO.

Fish said:

You need to replace that old fuel filter first, but go back into the carb, get a new carb kit. Dismantle it down to where you had it, but then remove the needle/lever/spring thingy, and you will likely find the passage beneath clogged all to hell from dirt and the remains of the old fuel filter, blow it out, hold the carb body up to a light and visually verify that the passage beneath the needle is clear, and re-assemble with a brand new kit. Also, your fuel lines are likely shot, as well as the impulse line, they are probably so gummy, that if you pinched one, it would stay stuck together for a while. Also, those old Stihl fuel filters had a foam insert, that started degrading and breaking apart after 30 years or so, that is why you want a new fuel filter. The crud from that collects above the screen like a wad of snuff.....

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Thanks, I did that. Replaced the impulse line, and actually cleaned the filter, no obvious signs of it deteriorating. Saw runs fine now just in the opposite direction that it should. Probably spent 5 hours altogether on the problem, I couldn't figure out what went wrong even with everyone's help. According to the exploded view everything is in it's correct position. Very weird, I'll report the findings after it's fixed.

What are the high and low screws set at? It sounds like you are running way too lean. Take off the air filter and look in the carb throat, and look at the throttle plate. Is it closed? Does it open when you pull the trigger? If so, you either have a severely clogged carb, or a leaking seal, but I am still betting on the carb.

Fish said:

What are the high and low screws set at? It sounds like you are running way too lean. Take off the air filter and look in the carb throat, and look at the throttle plate. Is it closed? Does it open when you pull the trigger? If so, you either have a severely clogged carb, or a leaking seal, but I am still betting on the carb.

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The throttle plate closes when I pull the trigger, opens and revs when I let go. The H/L screws are at 1 1/2 turns out (counter clockwise) from fully closed, i will adjust as requires once this problem is solved. I always back off the screw a 1/4 turn or so from peak rpm, when adjusting, to avoid too lean a mixture.

Here is a pic of one with the trigger/rod area exposed, I cannot imagine how yours could be hooked up. Can you snap a pic?

good photo

Okay, this is helpful, I can see the actuator rod is attached to the bottom end of what I am going to call the bell crank, the side with the hole in it. That makes perfect sense. The other end of the bell crank is bent to contact the idle screw. I can't see how this happens from the photo but it must. When you pull on your trigger the rod moves forward openning the throttle, that's what is supposed to happen.

On my saw the end of the bell crank with the hole for the actuator rod is on top, the bend on the bottom. This creates 2 problems, one is that the position of the rod is raised up too high and is interrferred with by the air cleaner, when the ac is in place. two-as one squeezes the trigger the actuator rod is moved forward closing the throttle rather than opening it. This is clear to me and realize these are the issues.

However, I did not dismantle or reposition the throttle plate so it in effect would work in reverse to it's design. The throttle plate is either slightly larger than the venturi opening, at least in one direction or is somehow restricted from just spinning in the venturi opening, so the idea that it could have repositioned itself seems against my thinking.

Maybe I'm wrong, it looks that way from your photo, maybe it just flipped over during dis-assembly without my realizing it! Stranger things have happened. I can't look at it now, because it's in the shop, my frustration level peaked out and I just took it in. The saw arrived there all cleaned out and partly dis-assembled so it won't take a service guy more than 10 minutes to fix my blunder, I hope. I guess we'll see.

Thanks for your continues interest in my problem and I'll let you know where I screwed this up when I get it back.

That is the only thing that I could figure, that someone had the throttle plate out, and had it on the wrong side.

Or the carb was put on upside down.

BlazNT said:

Or the carb was put on upside down.

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No, the impulse nipple only goes on 1 way.....

Fish said:

That is the only thing that I could figure, that someone had the throttle plate out, and had it on the wrong side.

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He is the only one that has taken it apart if you read his other post stihl 024 need exploded parts view - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information, so he should know this..? I will also go with "carb fitted wrong" or that the link rod is fitted wrong. like you say, a good photo(s) would tell all...!

hairyapple said:

can only go in one way, otherwise H/L screws and Idle screw would not line up with the holes in the shroud useed to access them. Niether would the gas intake or vacuum line.
I did not take out the butterfly valve. The choke is incorporated in the air filter.
.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I assumed from this statement that he did not remove the throttle plate, which was what was confusing, as we only have the
info here to go on.... I go to great lengths to help folks here, but I have yet to do web searches to read their threads on other forums, maybe I need to start, but I already have enough folks HERE that hate me.......

no hate here

No hate here don't worry about that. I'm almost convinced now, especially after seeing the photo, that that somehow the throttle plate was inverted, meaning the bell crank should have been and must be able to be turned 180 degrees without removing it from the carburetor's body. It's the only explanation that makes any sense. As I took it apart, never having taken it apart before, I tried to remove the carb BEFORE I dismantled the handle and trigger, when I did that the carb almost fell out and the actuator rod disconnected as well. At that point the bell crank was positioned with the hole up on top and I assumed that was how it was meant to be. It looked right and I had no reason to think otherwise. We'll see when I get it back.

Thank You Note

I appreciate all the responses to my thread and have been remiss in not getting back to you all . The problem with my throttle was just that I should have flipped the butterfly over so that the throttle rod was on the bottom as shown in the photo.
I just didn't see how that could be as the butterfly's normal resting position was 180 degrees away from where it needed to be. Oh well, it tokk the mechanic about 6 minutes to fix the problem. We also changed out the gas and impulse lines, new plug along with the intank filter. She's running great now. Could use a new chain or two and we'll start out 31st year in style.

Appreciate the feed back..:thumbsup: