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I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 Briggs & Stratton 190 cc motor on it and it continues to sputter when it is idle. I have changed everything

#1

P

Paul’s Toro

I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.


#2

R

Rivets

Without model and serial numbers for the mower and/or model, type and code numbers for the engine would help your cause greatly. Without them anyone who would reply is just shooting in the dark with a blind fold on. Techs on this site don’t work that way. You need to help us before we even have a chance to help you.


#3

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Paul’s Toro

Without model and serial numbers for the mower and/or model, type and code numbers for the engine would help your cause greatly. Without them anyone who would reply is just shooting in the dark with a blind fold on. Techs on this site don’t work that way. You need to help us before we even have a chance to help you.
The model is 20056
126T02-0209-B1


#4

P

Paul’s Toro

The model is 20056
126T02-0209-B1
Serial number is 270000330


#5

P

Paul’s Toro

Serial number is 270000330


#6

P

Paul’s Toro

I’m wondering if it can be a burnt valve?


#7

R

Rivets

Now I’m even more confused. The engine on that mower is a constant full throttle, with no control to idle down the engine. I’m thinking he may have lost the governor control spring, which sets the governed top speed. Without it the gov will close the throttle, down to idle, which will cause the rough running condition.


#8

P

Paul’s Toro

Now I’m even more confused. The engine on that mower is a constant full throttle, with no control to idle down the engine. I’m thinking he may have lost the governor control spring, which sets the governed top speed. Without it the gov will close the throttle, down to idle, which will cause the rough running condition.
sorry for the confusion, but she is idling at full throttle with a sputter.


#9

R

Rivets

Can you remove the air filter housing and take a few pictures of the carb and linkage. I think I know the cause, but would like to verify my assumption before trying to explain the remedy. If using your phone to take the pics, you’ll have to load the into a program to reduce their size before you will be allowed to attach them.


#10

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Paul’s Toro

unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance


#11

P

Paul’s Toro

unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Also the governor spring is attached on the top of the carburetor


#12

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Rivets

I’m trying to find out where and how it is attached. Two different setups were used.


#13

P

Paul’s Toro

I’m trying to find out where and how it is attached. Two different setups were used.
Thank you


#14

sgkent

sgkent

I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
make sure the fuel is clean and new. Run a compression test to see if the valves need adjustment. Also if it has ever had a strike like a tree root, make sure that the flywheel key is not partially sheared. When you say you replaced the carb, did you check the gaskets, use a factory part, and check the intake tube for cracks?


#15

P

Paul’s Toro

make sure the fuel is clean and new. Run a compression test to see if the valves need adjustment. Also if it has ever had a strike like a tree root, make sure that the flywheel key is not partially sheared. When you say you replaced the carb, did you check the gaskets, use a factory part, and check the intake tube for cracks?
Brand new fuel and I added Marvel Mystery oil just to see if it would help which it did not. I replaced the carburetor and all the gaskets along with the tube. I am pretty mechanically inclined. This one has me stumped based on the work I’ve done. At this stage of the game. I’m thinking it might be a valve issue. I appreciate all you help.


#16

sgkent

sgkent

is the blade tight?


#17

P

Paul’s Toro

is the blade tight?
Yes


#18

S

slomo

Some carbs won't idle down under 2k rpms.

Having said that, Briggs recommends not to idle down. Lack of oil lubrication and air cooling are the symptoms of. Run her at 3200 to 3600 and call it a day.


#19

sgkent

sgkent

m 20055 has one speed. You cant idle it. It is either on or off. When one lets the kill handle go the mower dies as designed. I would think the 20056 would do the same. If the rpm won't come up then something may be goofy with the governor circuit as others have suggested.


#20

StarTech

StarTech

Governor spring is PN 691292
1687378512067.png


#21

P

Paul’s Toro

m 20055 has one speed. You cant idle it. It is either on or off. When one lets the kill handle go the mower dies as designed. I would think the 20056 would do the same. If the rpm won't come up then something may be goofy with the governor circuit as others have suggested.
The speed of the idol is not the issue as the idle speed is very high. The issue is it randomly sputters and almost like a valve has a problem. I’ve tried tech Ron in it along with Marvel mystery oil. It recycles the grass in incredibly small pieces and runs beautifully except for the sputter. It also has a noise that sounds like marbles so mechanically it might even have a small rod knock. At this stage of the game I’ll just keep fresh oil in it and run it until it dies. Thank you everyone for all your assistance. I really appreciate it.


#22

S

slomo

Some have a tab you can bend to adjust the rpm's.


#23

B

bertsmobile1

unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Paul,
Take some photos holding the camera very steady
Upload them into your computer
use what ever photo editing app you have to resize them to 12" along the longest end then set the resolution to 72 dpi
Then save them as a JPG
These will then be the correct file size to upload here .


#24

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sessman55

If the engine emits black smoke while idling, perhaps you didn’t install the choke return spring. They’re small and easily misplaced.


#25

C

CWatters

Fuel starvation? Check all fuel lines, clean out tank?


#26

7

70040

unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Paul,

eMail the picture to me and I will shrink it down with Photoshop.

George


#27

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STEVES

um, I think Paul's said it runs full speed & sputters as it does not idle. Idle seems not to be the issue. If I read all posts correctly.


#28

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Paul’s Toro

um, I think Paul's said it runs full speed & sputters as it does not idle. Idle seems not to be the issue. If I read all posts correctly.
The idle is not the issue as it is as it should be.
The issue is it sputters when idling. I’m thinking it might be a valve issue


#29

S

STEVES

The idle is not the issue as it is as it should be.
The issue is it sputters when idling. I’m thinking it might be a valve issue
you said 'idle not issue' then said 'sputters when idling' ?? Post #8 'sorry for the confusion, but she is idling at full throttle with a sputter' Full throttle at Idle?? Guess I just confused!


#30

T

tadawson

I think the confusion when an engine is at full speed, by definition, that is *NOT* idle in any way, shape, or form! I think a better choice of words may be "sputters under full speed, no load, conditions", and the confusion is not helping.


#31

S

STEVES

(y)


#32

C

Cajun power

look at carb gaskets closest to engine air intake. It's possible you might have an air leak...
not totally familiar with this engine, but if it has one of those hard plastic block intake-to-carb spacers, look for a crack..look for any small crack or defect in the carb body itself...like maybe a missing welch plug?
at high rpm...wot, will tend to "hide" an air leak...but at lower rpm, idle, rough.


as others have commented...make sure linkage and spring from governor to throttle valve is correct along with any damping springs (often its a two spring setup)...also check choke valve...it should move freely stop to stop.


#33

P

Paul’s Toro

I think the confusion when an engine is at full speed, by definition, that is *NOT* idle in any way, shape, or form! I think a better choice of words may be "sputters under full speed, no load, conditions", and the confusion is not helping.
You are correct.
Sputters at full speed with no load.


#34

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TobyU

Have you checked the RPMs with a accurate RPM gauge?
We should be careful in our discussions about saying full throttle and things like that because even though it's easy to do we're really in our minds, not talking about full throttle.

Full throttle by definition means when the carburetor is at its furthest over position with the throttle plate or butterfly as some people call it, wide open and on a lawn mower that would make the RPMs at least 2,000 if not 3000 RPMs faster than full operating speed.

The best way to determine if this is anywhere fuel related would be to get it running and get it set at between $2,900 and 3100 RPMs and then use a folded microfiber towel or shop cloth at the carburetor hole to slightly restrict the air flow. See if restricting it makes it run better or if it makes it start to burble even worse.

Also try gapping your plug at .025-.026 as sometimes you'll find a slightly weak emission system that doesn't play nicely. Also can try a standard j19 LM versus the RJ so you don't have a resistor plug or vice versa because sometimes it makes a difference but only about one in a 1000 or more.


#35

P

Paul’s Toro

Have you checked the RPMs with a accurate RPM gauge?
We should be careful in our discussions about saying full throttle and things like that because even though it's easy to do we're really in our minds, not talking about full throttle.

Full throttle by definition means when the carburetor is at its furthest over position with the throttle plate or butterfly as some people call it, wide open and on a lawn mower that would make the RPMs at least 2,000 if not 3000 RPMs faster than full operating speed.

The best way to determine if this is anywhere fuel related would be to get it running and get it set at between $2,900 and 3100 RPMs and then use a folded microfiber towel or shop cloth at the carburetor hole to slightly restrict the air flow. See if restricting it makes it run better or if it makes it start to burble even worse.

Also try gapping your plug at .025-.026 as sometimes you'll find a slightly weak emission system that doesn't play nicely. Also can try a standard j19 LM versus the RJ so you don't have a resistor plug or vice versa because sometimes it makes a difference but only about one in a 1000 or more.


#36

P

Paul’s Toro

Thanks for the info.
I appreciate it


#37

B

blaster 2023

How old is the Gas?


#38

P

Paul’s Toro

How old is the Gas?
New 89 octane.
also cleaned out the gas tank.


#39

F

first pull

I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
Could be a valve sticking


#40

B

barny57

I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
Check the governor make sure that’s it and working right before you dig too deep


#41

sgkent

sgkent

does it have a fuel filter?


#42

P

Paul’s Toro

does it have a fuel filter?
No


#43

J

jdtm

Get and installpaint.net (https://www.getpaint.net/download.html) and then open and save the picture file using a lower resolution to reduce the size of the picture.

Check basic things like a clogged air filter and valve clearances. Make sure you are getting good fuel flow. Do a compression test. Because of the compression release built into the camshaft, it is difficult to give an exact number to look for, but if you are giving it hard pulls during the test, I would be suspicious of a reading much below 60 PSI. 90 PSI or so would be on the high end.


#44

P

Paul’s Toro

Get and installpaint.net (https://www.getpaint.net/download.html) and then open and save the picture file using a lower resolution to reduce the size of the picture.

Check basic things like a clogged air filter and valve clearances. Make sure you are getting good fuel flow. Do a compression test. Because of the compression release built into the camshaft, it is difficult to give an exact number to look for, but if you are giving it hard pulls during the test, I would be suspicious of a reading much below 60 PSI. 90 PSI or so would be on the high end.
New air filter.
compression was 70 pounds
I’m thinking a bad valve at this point


#45

S

semimechanicman

I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
i had a pressure washer with that engine and same problem. it ended up being the auto choke plate staying closed for some reason inside the carb therefore causing it to run rough.


#46

T

the.doc

unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance



#47

S

SoarinRed

unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Mail should allow the pics to be compressed and sent. once the pics are open, then they can be decompressed. Just follow the prompts. or change the camera setting on your camera or phone.


#48

S

SoarinRed

Some carbs won't idle down under 2k rpms.

Having said that, Briggs recommends not to idle down. Lack of oil lubrication and air cooling are the symptoms of. Run her at 3200 to 3600 and call it a day.
good call, he could also check to see if the coil screws aren't loose or 1 broken which could affect the continuity of the electricity going to the spark plug.


#49

sgkent

sgkent

Snagit from Techsmith is what I use to grab images. Alternatively if someone is using Windows10

Click on the lower left Window or hit the windows key on their keyboard
type SNIP
Click on The Snipping Tool
Click on New
Use their mouse to put a frame around what they want to save
Save it as a jpeg where they can easily find and manage it
Upload it.


Example - i took a quick shot of part of this reply using the Snipping Tool:

Capture.JPG


#50

J

jdtm

If it is working OK under load, that would make valve and ignition issues less likely. On the other hand, it is not that hard to get to the valves on this engine, and it never hurts to make sure they are moving freely, lap them, and adjust the clearances (0.005"-0.007" intake and 0.007"-0.009" exhaust). And clean the carbon off the head while you have it off. If you are careful, you may be able to reuse the head gasket without issue, but be prepared to replace it. If it runs OK under load, you are also getting enough fuel. The governor seems unlikely to be the problem, but you can manually hold the throttle to verify that you still have the issue.

The new carb you got may be broken. I once got one that was missing welch plugs. The lesson there is that you cannot assume that something is not the problem because a new replacement was installed. Also look for air leaks. The hardware holding the carb to the engine can sometimes work loose. If you find this to be the case, be sure to correct the problem with some Loctite, or otherwise it will work loose again.


#51

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Rivets

I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.


#52

StarTech

StarTech

Just curious when the OP said changed everything did he try just running a new mower under it?:ROFLMAO:

He couldn't have tried everything...


#53

StarTech

StarTech

I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.
It sorta like the Super Z I am working on right now. The customer rounded the hex head of the blade bolt. Apparently he was using a 12 pt socket. No problem getting it off with the 6 pt here. I have clean hex up but is now it takes 7/8 socket instead of the 15/16. So as not to confuse the next person servicing the deck I will install a new 5/8-11 x 3" screw that has the same head size as the other two blade bolts. I just keep old bolt for use where only one screw this size is used.

Basically it is thinking about the person that has to work on the machine.


#54

T

TobyU

I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.
There's a saying: "Close enough for give govt work" I find it hilarious but useful.
If a head gasket (esp on L head Briggs) doesn't chunk off to badly there is no real reason not to reuse it.
I have permatex copper spray for these that I almost always coat of I reuse one.
But let's be realistic.... The bottom 3 right corner bolts on basically EVERY ONE of these are so loose that it's amazing they don't all leak.
The fact is that they don't need much pressure to stay sealed enough to run well. I could literally hold a head onto the block with my hand and start one.

In most cases, a good non damaged used one with permatex copper spray seals better than the original before it was touched with it's loose bolts!!

I warranty my work too.
If I charge them for a new gasket, then they get a new gasket but if I can keep the cost lower with a used one....I do.

The warranty is not the issue.
IF I started having a bunch come back then I would change something but I one would come back then it would be no big deal
Takes what?? 3 minutes to pop head off and put a new one on?
I'm good with that risk and results have supported it.


#55

J

jdtm

I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.
I was trying to pass along what I considered good advice, not start a war. The L-head B&S engine seems very tolerant of used head gaskets, and as someone mentioned, the bolts usually work loose. I have never had a reused head gasket fail, but you need to use a little common sense when deciding to reuse or replace. If the laminations are separating or something like that, it is time for Mr. Gasket to visit the trash can. Otherwise, especially if you are doing your own work, reusing the gasket is a good idea.


#56

T

TobyU

I was trying to pass along what I considered good advice, not start a war. The L-head B&S engine seems very tolerant of used head gaskets, and as someone mentioned, the bolts usually work loose. I have never had a reused head gasket fail, but you need to use a little common sense when deciding to reuse or replace. If the laminations are separating or something like that, it is time for Mr. Gasket to visit the trash can. Otherwise, especially if you are doing your own work, reusing the gasket is a good idea.
No more at all it's just that I don't tolerate when people make comments like they are rules or exactitudes etc.
Many people have different methods to obtain the same results and the same durability and longevity.
In other words your mileage may vary.. YMMV.

I and a commercial shop but I'm probably one of the more unique ones in the whole country.
I don't try to be anything like the other people and don't try to do add-on sales or related sales etc and don't try to do more services just to get the ticket price up or to make more money even though I could.

I am far more concerned with keeping my repair prices low for my customers.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it and when it does break, do it as economical as possible to get back up into service.


#57

R

Rivets

All kinds of people come to this forum looking for advice and help in solving their problems. Those giving advice and help can be backyard newbie DIYers all the way up to commercial manufacturer service techs. In between you get those who repair as a hobby, those with mechanical and technical skills and industry service owners and technicians. I am part of the last group and we have standards which we are required to uphold, because of manufacturers requirements, safety requirements and insurance requirements. Because 99% of the time our brains are in shop mode, our answers reflect the standards we must deal with everyday, that the rest of the don’t agree with. On top of that, how well we do our jobs determines the quality of life for ourselves and our families. If the DIY makes a mistake, they chalk it up to inexperience and go on with life. Our mistakes can cost us our livelihood.
One thing that really pisses me off are those who say most service people throw parts at repairs just to jack up their bottom line. Having worked in this industry for 50+ years with representatives the manufacturing side down to repair technicians, I can tell you that 90% of the people I have dealt with DO NOT do this. Anyone making that blanket claim has no idea what they are talking about. Yes there are the 10% that give everyone a bad rep, but we know who they are. They are the companies who we say we never recommend and the people on this forum who we call out because they give poor information. Just like anywhere when you ask for advice, before using that advice, consider the background of the advisor. Plus the advice is only worth what you paid for it and if you’re not ready to accept the answer, don’t ask the question. Read my signature.


#58

B

bertsmobile1

Like Rivets I warranty my repairs for a period of time , in my case a full year
And like every other tech here my time has a value
So it is a value judgement.
The cost of the time for me to check a gasket properly assemble the engine, find the old gasket failed then redo the job or the cost of a new gasket which is all of $ 25.00 so it is a no brainer.
Now L heads run low compression usually around 6:1 so some times you can get buy with an old gasket but reusing old gaskets is strait out bad practice as visually you can not asses the internal integrity so the only head gaskets that get reused are the solid copper ones .
And FWIW , I am around 100 services to date because I am not particularly well
In those services I am yet to replace a single spark plug , on about 1/3 I replaced the prefilter & left the original paper element there
I have used just over 50 fuel filters as I have just opened the second bag .
So no I do not replace perfectly good parts to pad out service prices.
Franchised dealers are in a different situation because they are contractually obliged to carry out the service according to the factory specifications .
IF you read my all posts ( you must be bored ) then you will see me regularly instructing people to diagnose the fault before swapping out parts .
However you will never ever find me advising to reuse a head gasket "if it looks good " and always replace the diaphragms & gaskets on cube carbs because it is sound practice .


#59

T

TobyU

All kinds of people come to this forum looking for advice and help in solving their problems. Those giving advice and help can be backyard newbie DIYers all the way up to commercial manufacturer service techs. In between you get those who repair as a hobby, those with mechanical and technical skills and industry service owners and technicians. I am part of the last group and we have standards which we are required to uphold, because of manufacturers requirements, safety requirements and insurance requirements. Because 99% of the time our brains are in shop mode, our answers reflect the standards we must deal with everyday, that the rest of the don’t agree with. On top of that, how well we do our jobs determines the quality of life for ourselves and our families. If the DIY makes a mistake, they chalk it up to inexperience and go on with life. Our mistakes can cost us our livelihood.
One thing that really pisses me off are those who say most service people throw parts at repairs just to jack up their bottom line. Having worked in this industry for 50+ years with representatives the manufacturing side down to repair technicians, I can tell you that 90% of the people I have dealt with DO NOT do this. Anyone making that blanket claim has no idea what they are talking about. Yes there are the 10% that give everyone a bad rep, but we know who they are. They are the companies who we say we never recommend and the people on this forum who we call out because they give poor information. Just like anywhere when you ask for advice, before using that advice, consider the background of the advisor. Plus the advice is only worth what you paid for it and if you’re not ready to accept the answer, don’t ask the question. Read my signature.
I was talking about this bad few because they're only a few in the mower repair industry that do that. Unfortunately, and the auto repair world it's over far worse and the large majority probably 80 or 90%.
I tell people all the time that lawnmower shops aren't trying to do extra work to your machines because they frankly don't have time! They have 75 to 100 plus mowers to fix at any given time and they just need to get you done and get on to the next person.

I don't agree with you high road mentality though about standards etc at least not completely.
My standards are about doing a great job and high quality work that gets the job done for people at the lowest cost possible... keeping equipment up and running for as long as possible.

You can't talk about safety standards or liability, etc in regards to things like safety switches, blade adapters or bent crankshafts, and then talk about reusing a head gasket on a Briggs L head because that's not apples to apples.
Some people might be stuck in what you call shop mode but there is no comparison because there is no safety involved.
There is no possibility or increased risk of injury, or liability even if the head gasket fails.
The only thing it could do is aggravate and hassle the customer and possibly tarnish your reputation if you had repeat failures or comebacks often.

The other thing I do say about shops often to my customers along with that they're not trying to do extra work for you it's just for the work that's needed that they do they are far overpriced.
They also often grossly overpay for the parts they buy so of course the customer has to pay more too.

Anyone by riding more spindles, starters, carburetors, or ignition modules from a retail shop or from a local WD or supplier is absolutely crazy because they're overpaying multiple times.
Other items, it makes little difference.

Forgive me if I have a chip on my shoulder towards most of these commercial industries.
I might be part of that industry but I am a human oddity so I do it my own way and part of the reasons I continue to do this is just to buck the system.

I really don't believe in the entire theory or concept of some parts of the industry and this is the only one that I see things differently about.
I understand their argument that they need to make enough money to pay their employees and pay their overhead and make a decent living but I don't think I really agree that the whole circle of things should work the way it does.
We shouldn't have larger stores with employees and overhead etc. I would prefer a handful of small owner operator guys fixing them from a garage or pole barn on their property.
This would be a better situation as there could be enough to satisfy the need and demand and they could keep the prices lower and still make decent money.
But unfortunately, this country has decided to prevent most all of this.
They want everyone to "spin the money wheel" and force them to butter the bread of these commercial real estate companies...spending lots of money and passing that expense on to customers.
Let's just say I don't support it.

I guess I'm a supporter of the millions of independent contractors - plumbers, electricians, landscapers, photographers, painters, body guys and gals etc but I'm sad that a lot of them go along with the flow and charge what the market deems acceptable because these big companies crank up that price.
Probably just a product of size of population.

I'll go back to a tiny town size please.


#60

B

bertsmobile1

No arguement that the experiment into capatilist demand economy has been a dismal failure .
This comes down to lack of government oversight and enforcement of what were some of the best business laws on the planet .
However when it comes to giving advice then it should be the best advice
It takes weeks if not months for some of the posters to work out their head gasket is gone
So the very last thing we should be doing is allowing the problem to repeat itself
I know mechanics that have silicon in air powered dispencers because they never replace a gasket, just splosh some goo on it and out it goes, for a while.
If the poster cares to ignore good advice, reuse an old gasket and have it blow out next season then that was their decision but advising them to reuse it "if it looks good" is plain bad.
And to back that Up I do have a post graduate diploma in materials science so yes I know the difference between an item that is single use and one that is designed to be reused .
Even worse many people do not understand the difference between SV & OHV head gaskets so they see bad information then apply it to places where is wan never meat for .


#61

J

jdtm

The road to Hell is paved with good intentions. Old head gasket or new one, this thread, while interesting, is becoming tangential to helping Paul's Toro get his mower running smoothly. On that front, while checking the the governor by manually operating the throttle valve as I had suggested earlier, try lowering the speed of the engine. That will increase the vacuum in the intake manifold and further reduce fuel requirements. So if there is an air leak or excess fuel delivery, it should become worse. While doing this test, note the exhaust, which you can use to help differentiate between rich and lean. The classic marker of an engine running rich is black smoke. Even if it is not running rich enough for black smoke, the exhaust will have an unpleasant "smoggy" smell since it is emitting a lot of unburned hydrocarbons. And if you do have to decide about the head gasket because you took the head off (or just remove and inspect the spark plug), you will see loose sooty carbon.

While I am quoting proverbs, and this time will be my last comment on the reuse of head gaskets, another one states that "[t]here are none so blind as those who will not see." Post graduate diploma or not, if I have never had a head gasket failure from a reused head gasket and apparently TobyU has had similar experience, you are simply denying facts if you will not admit that a head gasket in good condition on a B&S L-head engine is likely to be good enough to work. True it will not seal as well as a new one, but it does not need to seal that well.


#62

R

Rivets

Toby, you are free to do as you feel is best for you, but that does not mean that is what is best for everyone. I’m sorry that you feel those who don’t do it your way are money grabbers and only want to make an extra buck off the uninformed. That being said, I’ll bet that the top pros on this forum have “paid it forward “ to far more customers than you realize. Do you feel we are willing to provide free advice because we looking for payback in the future? We do it because it is part of our nature to help those who need it or educate those wanting to learn. Even though I am not in your tiny town, thinking you are better than others who are not doing it your way, I have more work than I can handle and I sleep very well at night knowing I have helped someone out doing it my way. It’s your decision to bash those who work in this industry and I pray you are always smarter than everyone else, so you don’t have to ask for help.


#63

S

slomo

The fact is that they don't need much pressure to stay sealed enough to run well. I could literally hold a head onto the block with my hand and start one.
Torque spec is only like 120 to 140 inch lbs. They don't need hardened studs and parallel ground flat washers LOL. This ain't the space shuttle either (Taryl).


#64

B

bertsmobile1

The road to Hell is paved with good intentions. Old head gasket or new one, this thread, while interesting, is becoming tangential to helping Paul's Toro get his mower running smoothly.
Yes you are quite correct.
However where & when bad practice is posted it needs to be called out lest bad practice becomes common practice .
There is already way too much of this on You Tube & Face Book
If people know it is bad practice yet decide to save $ 25 then that is their decision


#65

V

volt

Paul,

eMail the picture to me and I will shrink it down with Photoshop.

George
I'm having similar problem. What I discovered yesterday is when I open 'fuel shut off' valve, and disconnect from 'fuel filter', only a small trickle of fuel comes out. I suspect the valve is not opening. Odered new one and should be arriving today.


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