The model is 20056Without model and serial numbers for the mower and/or model, type and code numbers for the engine would help your cause greatly. Without them anyone who would reply is just shooting in the dark with a blind fold on. Techs on this site don’t work that way. You need to help us before we even have a chance to help you.
sorry for the confusion, but she is idling at full throttle with a sputter.Now I’m even more confused. The engine on that mower is a constant full throttle, with no control to idle down the engine. I’m thinking he may have lost the governor control spring, which sets the governed top speed. Without it the gov will close the throttle, down to idle, which will cause the rough running condition.
Also the governor spring is attached on the top of the carburetorunfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Thank youI’m trying to find out where and how it is attached. Two different setups were used.
make sure the fuel is clean and new. Run a compression test to see if the valves need adjustment. Also if it has ever had a strike like a tree root, make sure that the flywheel key is not partially sheared. When you say you replaced the carb, did you check the gaskets, use a factory part, and check the intake tube for cracks?I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
Brand new fuel and I added Marvel Mystery oil just to see if it would help which it did not. I replaced the carburetor and all the gaskets along with the tube. I am pretty mechanically inclined. This one has me stumped based on the work I’ve done. At this stage of the game. I’m thinking it might be a valve issue. I appreciate all you help.make sure the fuel is clean and new. Run a compression test to see if the valves need adjustment. Also if it has ever had a strike like a tree root, make sure that the flywheel key is not partially sheared. When you say you replaced the carb, did you check the gaskets, use a factory part, and check the intake tube for cracks?
The speed of the idol is not the issue as the idle speed is very high. The issue is it randomly sputters and almost like a valve has a problem. I’ve tried tech Ron in it along with Marvel mystery oil. It recycles the grass in incredibly small pieces and runs beautifully except for the sputter. It also has a noise that sounds like marbles so mechanically it might even have a small rod knock. At this stage of the game I’ll just keep fresh oil in it and run it until it dies. Thank you everyone for all your assistance. I really appreciate it.m 20055 has one speed. You cant idle it. It is either on or off. When one lets the kill handle go the mower dies as designed. I would think the 20056 would do the same. If the rpm won't come up then something may be goofy with the governor circuit as others have suggested.
Paul,unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Paul,unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
The idle is not the issue as it is as it should be.um, I think Paul's said it runs full speed & sputters as it does not idle. Idle seems not to be the issue. If I read all posts correctly.
you said 'idle not issue' then said 'sputters when idling' ?? Post #8 'sorry for the confusion, but she is idling at full throttle with a sputter' Full throttle at Idle?? Guess I just confused!The idle is not the issue as it is as it should be.
The issue is it sputters when idling. I’m thinking it might be a valve issue
You are correct.I think the confusion when an engine is at full speed, by definition, that is *NOT* idle in any way, shape, or form! I think a better choice of words may be "sputters under full speed, no load, conditions", and the confusion is not helping.
Have you checked the RPMs with a accurate RPM gauge?
We should be careful in our discussions about saying full throttle and things like that because even though it's easy to do we're really in our minds, not talking about full throttle.
Full throttle by definition means when the carburetor is at its furthest over position with the throttle plate or butterfly as some people call it, wide open and on a lawn mower that would make the RPMs at least 2,000 if not 3000 RPMs faster than full operating speed.
The best way to determine if this is anywhere fuel related would be to get it running and get it set at between $2,900 and 3100 RPMs and then use a folded microfiber towel or shop cloth at the carburetor hole to slightly restrict the air flow. See if restricting it makes it run better or if it makes it start to burble even worse.
Also try gapping your plug at .025-.026 as sometimes you'll find a slightly weak emission system that doesn't play nicely. Also can try a standard j19 LM versus the RJ so you don't have a resistor plug or vice versa because sometimes it makes a difference but only about one in a 1000 or more.
Could be a valve stickingI have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
Check the governor make sure that’s it and working right before you dig too deepI have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
New air filter.Get and installpaint.net (https://www.getpaint.net/download.html) and then open and save the picture file using a lower resolution to reduce the size of the picture.
Check basic things like a clogged air filter and valve clearances. Make sure you are getting good fuel flow. Do a compression test. Because of the compression release built into the camshaft, it is difficult to give an exact number to look for, but if you are giving it hard pulls during the test, I would be suspicious of a reading much below 60 PSI. 90 PSI or so would be on the high end.
i had a pressure washer with that engine and same problem. it ended up being the auto choke plate staying closed for some reason inside the carb therefore causing it to run rough.I have a Toro lawnmower with a 6.75 190cc Briggs & Stratton motor on it that continues to sputter when idling. I have changed the oil, the spark plug, the air filter and the carburetor and it still sputters.
unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
Mail should allow the pics to be compressed and sent. once the pics are open, then they can be decompressed. Just follow the prompts. or change the camera setting on your camera or phone.unfortunately the picture I took won’t download
as you stated due to its size. Can you give me more recommendations.I appreciate your assistance
good call, he could also check to see if the coil screws aren't loose or 1 broken which could affect the continuity of the electricity going to the spark plug.Some carbs won't idle down under 2k rpms.
Having said that, Briggs recommends not to idle down. Lack of oil lubrication and air cooling are the symptoms of. Run her at 3200 to 3600 and call it a day.
It sorta like the Super Z I am working on right now. The customer rounded the hex head of the blade bolt. Apparently he was using a 12 pt socket. No problem getting it off with the 6 pt here. I have clean hex up but is now it takes 7/8 socket instead of the 15/16. So as not to confuse the next person servicing the deck I will install a new 5/8-11 x 3" screw that has the same head size as the other two blade bolts. I just keep old bolt for use where only one screw this size is used.I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.
There's a saying: "Close enough for give govt work" I find it hilarious but useful.I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.
I was trying to pass along what I considered good advice, not start a war. The L-head B&S engine seems very tolerant of used head gaskets, and as someone mentioned, the bolts usually work loose. I have never had a reused head gasket fail, but you need to use a little common sense when deciding to reuse or replace. If the laminations are separating or something like that, it is time for Mr. Gasket to visit the trash can. Otherwise, especially if you are doing your own work, reusing the gasket is a good idea.I would never reuse a head gasket unless I am out in the field and have no other alternative. That said, I warranty my work and don’t want to lose $$$ because I‘m in a hurry to get a job done. Never lost a customer because I’m doing things the right way.
No more at all it's just that I don't tolerate when people make comments like they are rules or exactitudes etc.I was trying to pass along what I considered good advice, not start a war. The L-head B&S engine seems very tolerant of used head gaskets, and as someone mentioned, the bolts usually work loose. I have never had a reused head gasket fail, but you need to use a little common sense when deciding to reuse or replace. If the laminations are separating or something like that, it is time for Mr. Gasket to visit the trash can. Otherwise, especially if you are doing your own work, reusing the gasket is a good idea.
I was talking about this bad few because they're only a few in the mower repair industry that do that. Unfortunately, and the auto repair world it's over far worse and the large majority probably 80 or 90%.All kinds of people come to this forum looking for advice and help in solving their problems. Those giving advice and help can be backyard newbie DIYers all the way up to commercial manufacturer service techs. In between you get those who repair as a hobby, those with mechanical and technical skills and industry service owners and technicians. I am part of the last group and we have standards which we are required to uphold, because of manufacturers requirements, safety requirements and insurance requirements. Because 99% of the time our brains are in shop mode, our answers reflect the standards we must deal with everyday, that the rest of the don’t agree with. On top of that, how well we do our jobs determines the quality of life for ourselves and our families. If the DIY makes a mistake, they chalk it up to inexperience and go on with life. Our mistakes can cost us our livelihood.
One thing that really pisses me off are those who say most service people throw parts at repairs just to jack up their bottom line. Having worked in this industry for 50+ years with representatives the manufacturing side down to repair technicians, I can tell you that 90% of the people I have dealt with DO NOT do this. Anyone making that blanket claim has no idea what they are talking about. Yes there are the 10% that give everyone a bad rep, but we know who they are. They are the companies who we say we never recommend and the people on this forum who we call out because they give poor information. Just like anywhere when you ask for advice, before using that advice, consider the background of the advisor. Plus the advice is only worth what you paid for it and if you’re not ready to accept the answer, don’t ask the question. Read my signature.
Torque spec is only like 120 to 140 inch lbs. They don't need hardened studs and parallel ground flat washers LOL. This ain't the space shuttle either (Taryl).The fact is that they don't need much pressure to stay sealed enough to run well. I could literally hold a head onto the block with my hand and start one.
Yes you are quite correct.The road to Hell is paved with good intentions. Old head gasket or new one, this thread, while interesting, is becoming tangential to helping Paul's Toro get his mower running smoothly.
I'm having similar problem. What I discovered yesterday is when I open 'fuel shut off' valve, and disconnect from 'fuel filter', only a small trickle of fuel comes out. I suspect the valve is not opening. Odered new one and should be arriving today.Paul,
eMail the picture to me and I will shrink it down with Photoshop.
George