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I have a question for you experts. This May I purchased a new Toro MX5060 with the ZT-2800. Being anal, I decided to change the oil / filters on the Hydro Drives. Everything went smoothly (except for one really stubborn oil filter), until I went to purge the units. Even with the hydros bypassed, the mower wants to move back and forth (primarily the left hand drive). I noticed that with the engine off and the hydros bypassed, it is harder to push than it was before, similar to an emergency brake hanging up / dragging in an automobile. Per the instructions, I slowly moved the levers back and forth with the engine running, several times in both the bypassed and non bypassed modes. It doesn't seem be a problem as I drove it up and down the driveway. I was careful not to come in contact with any linkages when I did the oil / filter change. Other than checking the linkages, do you have any suggestions? I almost wish I never touched it. I guess no good deed should go unpunished...:laughing:!
Thanks,
Bruce

I am going to suggest purging it again,

tybilly said:

I am going to suggest purging it again,

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I'll try that today. One thing that I did notice is that the Toro manual makes no mention of jacking the wheels off the ground. The Hydro Gear manual says to do so. I'll try it again and let everybody know.

Thanks,
Bruce

Just to update. I tried the procedure with the wheels jacked up off the ground, and the left wheel still turns with the hydros bypassed. I did notice that you could push the left side bypass lever in further / beyond the built in stop. I had my son start the mower and operate the drives. I pushed the left bypass in further that the stop and the wheel stopped moving. To fix this, I will add / epoxy a washer or two to the bypass lever to enable it to be pushed in further. I can't understand what had happened to it. It always worked before and there is no way I could have bent the linkage. At least it will be an easy fix and I am relieved that I didn't break anything.
Bruce

I have a Toro Titan ZX5420 with ZT2800's. I was planning to do the initial oil/filter change and was told by a local dealer that they recommend skipping this one and waiting until 500 hours to crack them open. Seems like a long time, but their reasoning is this system doesn't need a break in period and keeping it topped off and sealed is better than exposing it to any problems from doing it. Not sure how I feel about this. The shop is really respected in the area, but 500 hours! Any one else hear of this?

Acelazz said:

I have a Toro Titan ZX5420 with ZT2800's. I was planning to do the initial oil/filter change and was told by a local dealer that they recommend skipping this one and waiting until 500 hours to crack them open. Seems like a long time, but their reasoning is this system doesn't need a break in period and keeping it topped off and sealed is better than exposing it to any problems from doing it. Not sure how I feel about this. The shop is really respected in the area, but 500 hours! Any one else hear of this?

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That sounds like opposite extreme of what I did with changing the fluid and filters at about 30 hours. I'm also the guy that changes oil and filter on a new car at 100 miles.. . I figure, at worst, I'm throwing some money away. At least it makes me feel better....:laughing:

I would be hesitant to wait 500 hours, but, your dealer is the expert. They certainlt aren't looking to rip you off.

Sorry that I haven't really been of much help.

Bruce

have to revive - i am in same dilemna. dealer thinks im crazy to ever open a hydro, wont do it. service manual say to..... im conflicted.

any advice out there?

Yes, indeed you can do more damage than good servicing your hydros. The only time mine get done is the first recommended service and if I blow a hydro line. Dealers know that most hydro failures are due to contamination from improper service.

First of all, why would you change the oil and filters on a new machine? Typically you can go to 250 hours before ever touching the hydrostatic system! No offense, just not a good move considering that this system should only be touched when needed!!!! Secondly, the process as described by the manual for the mower of Hydro-Gears maintenance manual should guide you properly on doing the service without complications. There is also a troubleshooting section in the manual as well.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw37LRJmWSQK-CAKHgAeSQC8

Or

http://www.hydro-gear.com/library.php?cmd=download&fid=59562c35df3f5272234b54b4b68011b1&libid=

Mike

My Hustler with zt-2800's said to service at 75-100 hours. I did. Then I heard all the conflicting opinions on doing it at all. My new mower a ferris stander, my dealer said don't touch them. I contacted Hydro gear directly and their tech said they need to be done at 75 hours initially on the zt3400's I have now.

I guess I'll just keep them clean when I change it and take my chances.

EricC said:

My Hustler with zt-2800's said to service at 75-100 hours. I did. Then I heard all the conflicting opinions on doing it at all. My new mower a ferris stander, my dealer said don't touch them. I contacted Hydro gear directly and their tech said they need to be done at 75 hours initially on the zt3400's I have now.

I guess I'll just keep them clean when I change it and take my chances.

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it's ironic now that I'm reading this because I just picked up a new exmark which has ZT-2800s and the manual recommends doing the first hydrostatic oil change at 75 hours. My prior Exmark said 250 for the first service but the difference is that it was a separate pump motor system in that mower. with the amount of hours that I put on my mowers I should be doing my first hydrostatic service after two years and then every year after based on the recommendation in the manual.

cruzenmike said:

it's ironic now that I'm reading this because I just picked up a new exmark which has ZT-2800s and the manual recommends doing the first hydrostatic oil change at 75 hours. My prior Exmark said 250 for the first service but the difference is that it was a separate pump motor system in that mower. with the amount of hours that I put on my mowers I should be doing my first hydrostatic service after two years and then every year after based on the recommendation in the manual.

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None of this makes any sense. It's like don't change your engine oil until the engine blows up, then we will not cover it because the book said to change it at X hours and you didn't. You shouldn't have listened to the dealer. The warranty isn't with them. Did you get this "don't change it" in writing? I bet they will not do that. I change my Hustler hydro's all the time with no issues at all. Just follow the directions and there will be no issues. Shoot, if it's dirty but not time yet, it gets changed it anyway. Ever hear of something dying from having too clean oil? Follow manufacture of mower and/or trans instructions, not the ding dong dealer. It's the manufacture that means anything anyway, not the dealer. If they say change it after the first 75 hours, change it. Some books are hard to understand. If the mower manufacture says to change it sooner than the trans manufacture, change it sooner. Clean oil is good oil. Always change filters at same time. Bleed air out with wheels up, and keep doing it. Move the bypass levers in and out a few times. Any issues contact the manufacturer if your dealer is that stupid.

The problem with changing the oil in transmission is the first line that about 0,01% even read let alone act on.
" Thoroughly clean the cap and surrounding area "
That means a bit more than a cursory wipe around with a dirty rag.
Dust is a massive problem for hydros
It is not anywhere near as much a problem for an engine.

If you can change it at 250 why not at 75 when they suggest it? If it was going to fail from that, better early than late while it's still under warranty. a lot of guys will put that on in a month or 2. They make fully contained Hydro's and manufacturers have started using more self contained non-greaseable spindles too. If it was really advantageous to leave these un-serviced, why even make it an option? just seal them up. The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards not worrying so much about it and just doing what I've always done. The same dealer that told me not to service them, had no trouble opening up the cap and talking about the system while the cap sat in his hand. As much dust can get in then as when i'm doing a change. Clean my workspace, keep the wind down, wipe it off, blow it away and change it. I guess I'll find out.