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hydro gear 618-0249

Jul 20, 2012#1

P

phred101

What service should I do on this kind of drive, just bought a Huskee 20 hp with a 50" deck, everything runs fine and would like to keep it that way thanks for any reply

Oct 5, 2023#2

T

totallymopar

I have the very same model,Huskee Premier, 50" deck,20HP B &S Industrial/Commercial twin cyl. engine.HUGE rear tires(21"dia. 13" rims)very rugged,built heavy,with the Hydro-Gear 618 0249 transaxle.Looking for the same info-I don't think the trans fluid has ever been changed in 30 years.I found a can of 20W-50 Hydrostatic fluid at TSC for Bad Boy mowers,so I took a peek under one of the Bad Boys.Lo and behold-they use HydroGear trannies.So I'm thinking,although it was a zero-turn I was looking at,that the fluid for the Z-turn HydroGear would be the proper one for my 30-year-old 618,is it not? So I probably need to refill and purge it. Also,didn't the 618 have a reserve tank mounted somewhere? There is a fitting coming out of the top of the case, behind the pulley,with a long hose attached to it,that someone just plugged with a bolt.Shouldn't this be connected to a vented tank mounted somewhere,either on the unit,or the mower chassis? Do you have a small tank somewhere on yours,near the axle? Usually mounted on the rear panel,under the seat somewhere?

Oct 5, 2023#3

StarTech

These are considered sealed unit and normally the fluid never needs changing but here is the oil change info if you wish to remove the transaxle to do it as you need to disassemble to change the filter.

Oct 5, 2023#4

T

totallymopar

Thank you-this really helps!

Oct 6, 2023#5

Tiger Small Engine

totallymopar said:
Thank you-this really helps!

A lot of work to remove, drain oil, grease oil, and reinstall. Option B is extract oil with pump and get most of it and replace with fresh oil. If it is operating correctly consider leaving it as is.

Oct 7, 2023#6

T

totallymopar

Tiger Small Engine said:
A lot of work to remove, drain oil, grease oil, and reinstall. Option B is extract oil with pump and get most of it and replace with fresh oil. If it is operating correctly consider leaving it as is.

It is operating correctly.Only thing is,this oil has been in there,probably since it was made-over 30 years ago! I have seen video of oil drained out of the same transaxle(HydroGear) of approximately the same vintage,or a bit newer,that was very dark colored and dirty,due to fine bits of metal worn away in use and exposure to lawn dirt,as one would expect.Wouldn't that mean more accelerated wear on the inner components,not only because of the abrasive effect of the dirty oil,but because the protective and lubricating ingredients of the oil have been broken down,after decades of use? After all,would you not change your car engine's oil,or any other oil,after 30 years? I know that the differential in my Dodge went out for the same reason,and I had to install another one.And taking a drivetrain out of a lawn tractor is a heckofalot easier,than it is my car! Also-isn't there a filter in there,that should be replaced? The cost of a new filter,fresh oil,and removing the transaxle(4 bolts) is far less expensive,than running it untill it shells-and end up spending $400-$500 for a new trans--and having to remove it anyway!

Oct 8, 2023#7

Tiger Small Engine

totallymopar said:
It is operating correctly.Only thing is,this oil has been in there,probably since it was made-over 30 years ago! I have seen video of oil drained out of the same transaxle(HydroGear) of approximately the same vintage,or a bit newer,that was very dark colored and dirty,due to fine bits of metal worn away in use and exposure to lawn dirt,as one would expect.Wouldn't that mean more accelerated wear on the inner components,not only because of the abrasive effect of the dirty oil,but because the protective and lubricating ingredients of the oil have been broken down,after decades of use? After all,would you not change your car engine's oil,or any other oil,after 30 years? I know that the differential in my Dodge went out for the same reason,and I had to install another one.And taking a drivetrain out of a lawn tractor is a heckofalot easier,than it is my car! Also-isn't there a filter in there,that should be replaced? The cost of a new filter,fresh oil,and removing the transaxle(4 bolts) is far less expensive,than running it untill it shells-and end up spending $400-$500 for a new trans--and having to remove it anyway!

If you think it will actually be as easy as removing 4 bolts, tipping it over and draining oil and putting more in, go for it. I think you will find that is why it is rarely done.
Of course I think transaxle should be serviceable and oil drained (just like in many zero turn mowers). They didn’t ask us what we wanted.
If you think a new transaxle is only $400-$500, think again. Double that plus your time, money and frustration.

Oct 8, 2023#8

StarTech

The HG 618-0249 is listed as NLA so it only available as surplus or NOS. Not sure if the HG 618-0249A will replace it either but it is also listed as NLA.

Oct 8, 2023#9

T

totallymopar

Tiger Small Engine said:
If you think it will actually be as easy as removing 4 bolts, tipping it over and draining oil and putting more in, go for it. I think you will find that is why it is rarely done.
Of course I think transaxle should be serviceable and oil drained (just like in many zero turn mowers). They didn’t ask us what we wanted.
If you think a new transaxle is only $400-$500, think again. Double that plus your time, money and frustration.

Well,I think it WOULD be worth it.Since I've already removed the deck,got the seat and the back fender off,and already have the speed control disconnected(it needed repair),and the wheels off-then all I have to do is 4 more bolts,and the unit just drops out.And,considering what the cost of another unit would be-like you said yourself,IF I could get one-just 4 more bolts,after I ALREADY have it mostly disassembled anyway,is certainly worth the time and trouble.Besides,it's just me in my workshop,working on my mower,for my own use,when I'm not using it during this time of year,like in summer.And maybe while I have it out,I can add in a drain plug,once I CAREFULLY determine WHERE to put it.(and clean out any chips from drilling!) I have the tools and knowhow and can tap threads to put in a plug,to save effort next time I need to change the oil.I still think the extra work,and minimal expense of oil,and filter is worth saving a good trans,that is not only scarce,but expensive,IF and WHERE you can find one.I have found a few,for about $500.Oil is $32 a can,a filter a few more.A LOT less expensive than at least $500.This mower,built 30 years ago,is MUCH better made than the ones nowadays-you would have to pay a LOT for a new mower built this way.It's much cheaper to keep what I've got.

Oct 8, 2023#10

StarTech

If I am not mistaken there should be an Anti-torque bracket to remove too.

Oct 8, 2023#11

T

totallymopar

StarTech said:
If I am not mistaken there should be an Anti-torque bracket to remove too.

OK-not a problem.Thank you.and I don't see why the 0249A would not replace the unlettered one.same mount,same unit-just an improved unit.I just looked at one on Glen's surplus,for 500 bucks-and its the same unit.

Oct 10, 2023#12

T

totallymopar

totallymopar said:
OK-not a problem.Thank you.and I don't see why the 0249A would not replace the unlettered one.same mount,same unit-just an improved unit.I just looked at one on Glen's surplus,for 500 bucks-and its the same unit.

I have it out and draining overnight.

Oct 10, 2023#13

B

bertsmobile1

Wendyhycle said:
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Spam reported

Oct 10, 2023#14

T

totallymopar

bertsmobile1 said:
Spam reported

what the.....

Oct 11, 2023#15

Tiger Small Engine

totallymopar said:
Well,I think it WOULD be worth it.Since I've already removed the deck,got the seat and the back fender off,and already have the speed control disconnected(it needed repair),and the wheels off-then all I have to do is 4 more bolts,and the unit just drops out.And,considering what the cost of another unit would be-like you said yourself,IF I could get one-just 4 more bolts,after I ALREADY have it mostly disassembled anyway,is certainly worth the time and trouble.Besides,it's just me in my workshop,working on my mower,for my own use,when I'm not using it during this time of year,like in summer.And maybe while I have it out,I can add in a drain plug,once I CAREFULLY determine WHERE to put it.(and clean out any chips from drilling!) I have the tools and knowhow and can tap threads to put in a plug,to save effort next time I need to change the oil.I still think the extra work,and minimal expense of oil,and filter is worth saving a good trans,that is not only scarce,but expensive,IF and WHERE you can find one.I have found a few,for about $500.Oil is $32 a can,a filter a few more.A LOT less expensive than at least $500.This mower,built 30 years ago,is MUCH better made than the ones nowadays-you would have to pay a LOT for a new mower built this way.It's much cheaper to keep what I've got.

I am not trying to discourage you from servicing your 30 year old transaxle. It is kind of like rebuilding the rear differential on a Ford Pinto though. If you choose to drill and tap case for draining in the future, please know that oil filter and magnets with potential metals shavings will not be cleaned as a result.

Oct 11, 2023#16

T

totallymopar

Tiger Small Engine said:
I am not trying to discourage you from servicing your 30 year old transaxle. It is kind of like rebuilding the rear differential on a Ford Pinto though. If you choose to drill and tap case for draining in the future, please know that oil filter and magnets with potential metals shavings will not be cleaned as a result.

I found a better way.Remove the bottom plate.I already have the trans out,no issues,and cleaned up the outside.Simple matter to undo the star bolts,and take off the plate(after removing the oval piece over the oil pump).Yes.I know about all the small parts inside,have to be careful they don't drop out.I can not only drain out all the old oil,but clean the magnet inside,and replace the filter.Only question-when I refill,how full do I fill it? can I pour most of the oil in the bottom before I put the plate back on,then just top it off,or should I fill it entirely from the top-a lot harder to do that,I think,through a small hole. Oh,I get what you mean by the Pinto--but it happens to be the ONLY "Pinto" I have.Or can afford right now.

Oct 12, 2023#17

B

bertsmobile1

totallymopar said:
what the.....

This forum has a zero tollerance for spam
So when spam is detected we hit the green "report" link in the bottom left corner and one of the marvelous moderators deletes both the post & the poster
To prevent the moderators who do a great job from getting 10,000 spam reports for the same spam the first person who sees it posts a "spam reported" reply.
You need to remember that the forum is world wide so I see spam down here in OZ while most in the USA are busy making ZZZZZZ's which is the same story for all those to my east .
So when the first mod sees the post they remove it
May times a spammer will post 1 or 2 one day, then add spam to every thread the next day although this has not happened for quite some time but a while back it was not uncommon to hit the "new posts" link and get many pages of spam tacked onto threads that were years old .
A bit confusing to you but that is the way things work here & they work really well .

Oct 12, 2023#18

T

totallymopar

bertsmobile1 said:
This forum has a zero tollerance for spam
So when spam is detected we hit the green "report" link in the bottom left corner and one of the marvelous moderators deletes both the post & the poster
To prevent the moderators who do a great job from getting 10,000 spam reports for the same spam the first person who sees it posts a "spam reported" reply.
You need to remember that the forum is world wide so I see spam down here in OZ while most in the USA are busy making ZZZZZZ's which is the same story for all those to my east .
So when the first mod sees the post they remove it
May times a spammer will post 1 or 2 one day, then add spam to every thread the next day although this has not happened for quite some time but a while back it was not uncommon to hit the "new posts" link and get many pages of spam tacked onto threads that were years old .
A bit confusing to you but that is the way things work here & they work really well .

I just was wondering what something like that was doing on a lawnmower forum,is all. Didn't know what it was.

Oct 12, 2023#19

Tiger Small Engine

totallymopar said:
I just was wondering what something like that was doing on a lawnmower forum,is all. Didn't know what it was.

Fill with oil just below breather tube about 3/4”.

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